Help a leo newbie?

JeJ88

New Member
Messages
15
Location
England
Hi, I recently got my first leos. I've had them for a week now.
I've done some research but I'm still a little uneducated in the field of geckos.
I have a couple of questions.
1. I have a heat mat with thermostat control. The thermostat is set to around 92f. In my viv I have one of them strip thermometers buried in the calc sand where the mat sits underneath the glass, and it reads around 80f. My question is: should I turn up the heat or trust the thermostat and possible turn it down a notch?
2. I also have a blue light strip fitted in the viv (roughly in the middle). I have been turning it on in the morning and off at night. Should I be doing this the other way around, ie. Blue light on at night and off during the day.
3. Finally,... my leos ate a small amount in the first 2 days, around 6 crickets between them. I have been dropping crickets in the viv every day, monitoring for 30 mins to an hour. The geckos do not seem interested in them at all now. They walk past them and even allow them to crawl over them. So I have been removing the crickets so as not to bother my leos (though I do leave 2 in over night incase my leos change their minds and fancy a mid night snack).
It has been 5 days now since they ate.
I have found some poo over the last couple of days, so should I be concerned? Or will they eat when they are ready?
(Btw I have been dusting... and removing poo on site).
Sorry for the essay, and thank you for any response and help.
 

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,590
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
My suggestion would be to remove the calcium sand and choose a safer substrate. Calcium sand is often eaten by leos and turns into an almost cement like substance when it hits their stomach acid. If they consume more than a little bit this often kills them quite quickly. Tile, paper towels or reptile carpet are better choices.

That said, you want the temperature under your warm hide to be right arounf 90 degrees. Whatever temperature you have to set the thermostat at to make the ground that temperature is the right temperature. For some tanks it can be 100 degrees or more - especially if you have an inch or two of sand over the heat mat.

The cool temps could be the reason they are not eating. Once you're sure your temperatures are correct and they are still not eating I would start to worry. How often they eat also depends on how big they are. Adult geckos don't eat every day. Babies will eat more often.
 

JeJ88

New Member
Messages
15
Location
England
My suggestion would be to remove the calcium sand and choose a safer substrate. Calcium sand is often eaten by leos and turns into an almost cement like substance when it hits their stomach acid. If they consume more than a little bit this often kills them quite quickly. Tile, paper towels or reptile carpet are better choices.

That said, you want the temperature under your warm hide to be right arounf 90 degrees. Whatever temperature you have to set the thermostat at to make the ground that temperature is the right temperature. For some tanks it can be 100 degrees or more - especially if you have an inch or two of sand over the heat mat.

The cool temps could be the reason they are not eating. Once you're sure your temperatures are correct and they are still not eating I would start to worry. How often they eat also depends on how big they are. Adult geckos don't eat every day. Babies will eat more often.
Thanks for the help.
I have already gone up on the thermostat. It's nearly full blast and the sand is heating up to around 82... I don't think it will get to 90, any suggestions on this.
Also, Is there any way to tell if a gecko has eaten sand?
 

Rkruse3

New Member
Messages
16
Location
Kettering OH
I have always bred and raised my leos at a 82-85 range on the warm end. I have never seen any need for high temps.

As far as substrate is concerned, simplicity is the key unless you are going for an all natural viv. Leopard geckos are actually from an area that doesn't have a lot of sand. They are used to a rocky area with a somewhat compacted soil.

If you are seeing poo and not noticing any weight loss, don't panic. Depending on where you get your leopard geckos from determines their brumation period. Some commercial breeders breed their leos at different times year round to always have a supply of baby leos. Just keep a close eye on them.
 

SCGeckos

New Member
Messages
99
Location
South Carolina
I have always bred and raised my leos at a 82-85 range on the warm end. I have never seen any need for high temps.

I don't intend to be rude but This ^^^ is not good info. Leopard Geckos need to have a surface temp on one side of the enclosure between 90 - 93 degrees. This is required for proper digestion and immune system function. Just because animals CAN survive under those cooler conditions in no way means that it is correct husbandry.

As Lisa mentioned already, Remove the sand which will make it much easier to achieve the correct temperature range that is required. Not only that but being new to these animals and still learning proper husbandry, a simplistic setup would be much more ideal in your situation.

Here is a link to our care sheet we provide our customers which should help you. https://www.facebook.com/notes/658348584236070/
 

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