Might Be Getting First Leo - Advice?

I'm looking to possibly getting my first reptile, a leopard gecko! I've been doing tons of research, and I posted on Reddit for feedback but thought I'd post here too.

Here's what I'm planning on getting:
20 gal long tank with sliding screen lid from pet supplies plus
ZooMed UTH
Thermostat for the UTH
Temp Gun
Two Digital Thermometers unnecessary if I have the gun?)
Vitamin Food Spray
Mealworms (Is there a place I can get fewer? Parents aren't thrilled with the idea of me breeding them and I heard they don't live long?)
Dubia Roaches
Calcium with D3 (What's the deal with/without D-3?)
Critter Keeper for the roaches til feeding time

I'm looking at buying a Mack Snow from Reptiles by Mack, I looked around and he seems to be reputable - anyone disagree? Does that morph tend to have any aggression, like Blizzards?

I'm planning on using paper towels as substrate, plastic lids for food, water, and calcium dishes, solid (non see-though) plastic containers for hides (1 cool side, 1 warm side, 1 humid in middle). Am I missing anything essential? Do I have stuff listed I don't need?

Other questions:
- How long to wait til you can handle them? I red about two weeks, then you slowly start introducing them to your hand by just setting it in the tank and letting them come to you (and always scoop from belly)
- How often do they need to eat? How often do I need to use the vitamins/calcium powder? I plan on gut loading the insects.
- Are there any common things people do to cut down on costs?

Welcome to GF! Here are some answers to your questions:
vitamin spray: I'm not sure what that is. Your best bet is to get Repashy Calcium plus which has calcium, vitamin D3 (more on that below) and other vitamins and minerals and to dust the feeders every other feeding

Calcium and D3: Geckos need calcium for strong bones and vitamin D3 to metabolize the calcium. Years ago, people didn't really know about this, didn't provide it and the geckos would get soft bones (metabolic bone disease --MBD) and eventually die. Once everyone found out about the need for these substances they kind of went overboard and over supplemented. It is possible for geckos to become ill from too much calcium and vitamin D3. I have found that what works best for my geckos is to provide a small amount (in a bottle cap) of calcium without D3 in the cages of the hatchlings only, and to dust feeders every other feeding for hatchlings and adults.

Other questions:
Other questions:
- How long to wait til you can handle them? I red about two weeks, then you slowly start introducing them to your hand by just setting it in the tank and letting them come to you (and always scoop from belly)
That sounds about right. Different geckos will tolerate handling to different extents


- How often do they need to eat? How often do I need to use the vitamins/calcium powder? I plan on gut loading the insects.
Usually juveniles eat every day and adults about every other day. I feed Tuesday, Thurs. and Sat. and provide enough mealworms to the juveniles that they have some left on the days I don't feed. See above for the vitamin/calcium powder.


- Are there any common things people do to cut down on costs?
buy a lot of smaller mealworms so you get to use them as they grow
make hides and food/water bowls from stuff around the house instead of commercially purchased


Mealworms: many people buy mealworms, keep them in the fridge so they become dormant and don't continue to develop, and take them out for a day every week so they can warm up and eat.

Aliza

If it doesn't eat for 3 or 4 days dont freak out they sometimes do that

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Thanks for the replies!