Leopard Gecko Care Questions

LNK89 · Oct 23, 2009

Hi,

So my girlfriend is wanting a leopard gecko, and before we go out and buy anything we have some questions. We have been reading care sheets and they all seem to say different things which is a little coonfusing. First off, what should the temps be for the hot and cool side ? For the hot side I have read anywhere from 82-90F and 70-80F for the cool side, there seems to be a big gap in temps so I'm a little un sure. We would also be keeping it in my room and I like it to be cold when I sleep so I have an air conditioner that is rightt now set to 68F. Its not on in the winter but my room still gets kind of cold. How can I keep the tank temps up at night ? Would I just leave the heat lamp on with a red bulb or something ? Also What is better to use for heating the heat lamp or UTH ? And how do I regulate the temps ? I know I need a thermometer is there any recomended kinds to use and should I get 2 one for the hot side and one for the cool side ? What are some good recomended substrates besides paper towel ? If we take the leopard gecko out of the tank for feeding is sand ok or still not recomended ? For the humid hide can you buy them at the pet stores and put the vermiculite in them or do you have to make them ? And my last questions are what do I do with the crickets when its not feeding time ? do I just keep them in one of those criter keeper things ? And all the gut loading cricket food and cricket dusting powder and calcium supplement that always stay in the tank can be bought at any pet store right are there any recomended brands for those ?
Sorry this is so long.
Thanks,
LNK.

Srt14292 · Oct 23, 2009

Right ill do this in bullet point form

1. Hot side has alot of discussion on what temp it should be at, personally I have mine at 86-88 ish on the hot side. the cool side should be around 72ish.

2. Leos require belly heat, so hook your UTH to a thermostat and this will regulate the temperature for you. (i suggest pulse proportional)

3. Im for UTH all the way, belly heat is most important, you will find your gecko may spend most of its time in the hide anyway you wont know untill you get your gecko.

4.Regulating the temps again with the use of a thermostat hooked up to your UTH. (UTH covering 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor space.

5. You can have a thermometer for the hot and cool side, I only have one for my hot side. (I can move the probe to check if you get a digital thermometer you might get a High/low function with it so you can check and adjust for any fluctuations)

6. I believe people use eco earth in some of their enclosures, Others use shelf lining, Slate and tiles. It is up to you but I would say that is the safest things to go with.

7. No sand in the tank what so ever. No compromise.

8. yes you can buy them at pet stores or make your own, each will work well, a variety of people make them on here out of tupper ware containers because they have so many geckos and its just easier.
(I use sphagnum moss for my moist hides it doesn't really matter aslong as they hold moisture well)

9. If you have a problem with storing feeders, a great staple diet for leos are mealworms, you can store in fridge for like 3 months if needed, They don't stink and you just have to chuck some apples/oranges etc in there for moisture and gutloading.
Other feeders I would suggest is Locusts as they provide a higher protein package then crickets, plus they don't stink to high heaven like crickets.

10. I use JBL micro-calcium without d3 in a bottlecap inside the vivs so they can lick it when needed.
I dust with arkvits (this has the vitamins) once or twice a week,

As for the gutload for crickets i don't feed gutload so I wouldn't know.

Hope this has helped.

GrimmyX15 · Oct 23, 2009

Srt14292 said:
Right ill do this in bullet point form

1. Hot side has alot of discussion on what temp it should be at, personally I have mine at 86-88 ish on the hot side. the cool side should be around 72ish.

2. Leos require belly heat, so hook your UTH to a thermostat and this will regulate the temperature for you. (i suggest pulse proportional)

3. Im for UTH all the way, belly heat is most important, you will find your gecko may spend most of its time in the hide anyway you wont know untill you get your gecko.

4.Regulating the temps again with the use of a thermostat hooked up to your UTH. (UTH covering 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor space.

5. You can have a thermometer for the hot and cool side, I only have one for my hot side. (I can move the probe to check if you get a digital thermometer you might get a High/low function with it so you can check and adjust for any fluctuations)

6. I believe people use eco earth in some of their enclosures, Others use shelf lining, Slate and tiles. It is up to you but I would say that is the safest things to go with.

7. No sand in the tank what so ever. No compromise.

8. yes you can buy them at pet stores or make your own, each will work well, a variety of people make them on here out of tupper ware containers because they have so many geckos and its just easier.
(I use sphagnum moss for my moist hides it doesn't really matter aslong as they hold moisture well)

9. If you have a problem with storing feeders, a great staple diet for leos are mealworms, you can store in fridge for like 3 months if needed, They don't stink and you just have to chuck some apples/oranges etc in there for moisture and gutloading.
Other feeders I would suggest is Locusts as they provide a higher protein package then crickets, plus they don't stink to high heaven like crickets.

10. I use JBL micro-calcium without d3 in a bottlecap inside the vivs so they can lick it when needed.
I dust with arkvits (this has the vitamins) once or twice a week,

As for the gutload for crickets i don't feed gutload so I wouldn't know.

Hope this has helped.

1+:main_thumbsup:

Leopard Gecko Care Questions

LNK89

New Member

Srt14292

Est; 1992

GrimmyX15

Mkay-um?

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