Completely new to reptile/lizards check out my setup and steer me in the right

blair683

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Santa brought my 7 year old son a leopard gecko and all the necessities needed to care for it for Christmas. He is big time in to animals and science and has been begging for a leo for a long time. I am going to attach a few images of our setup and supplies. I have a few questions as well. We set up the cage so the right half of the cage is around 92 degrees and the left side is about 75 degrees. Is this how you would want it? My other main question is about feeding. We bought crickets and a cricket cage we put a couple of these cubes to "gut" load the crickets in with the crickets (picture attached). I read somewhere that a juvenile leo should be fed 2 crickets a day, is this correct? We also bought calcium powder (pictured) I read to coat the crickets in the powder two times a week (let me know your opinions). We also put some moss in a tuber-ware container (pictured) and sprayed it with water I read this will help with shedding?? Let me know all yur opinons and any advice is greatly appreciated as I am a complete "noob" when it comes to this stuff. Also I forgot to mention is an under the tank heating pad. the lady at ++++++++ told us we didn't need it but everywhere I read says we should. What do you guys think and if I need one where should I put it in my setup.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4042.jpg
    IMG_4042.jpg
    69.8 KB · Views: 9
  • IMG_4043.jpg
    IMG_4043.jpg
    77.9 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_4044.jpg
    IMG_4044.jpg
    74.2 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_4045.jpg
    IMG_4045.jpg
    87.3 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_4046.jpg
    IMG_4046.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 7

iCandiBallPythons

New Member
Messages
151
Location
NC
Looks good. But I would go with meal worms, crickets will annoy the hell out of you. Theres more than a few supplements on the market but I prefer rapashy calcium plus and dust every feeding. I would also suggest an undertank heater on a thermostat instead of lights if you dont have one already, leopards are nocturnal.
 
Last edited:

blair683

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Thanks for the advice, where would you suggest placing the under tank heater? Or should I find one big enough to cover the entire tank? Is it common for the heating pads to come with thermostats or is that something you buy separate, thanks.
 

nwtampaguy34

New Member
Messages
10
Location
Palm Harbor
No you only want 1/3 of the tank to have the heat mat. It sticks to the underside of the glass. It comes with little sticky things you put on the corners of your tank to raise your tank up a bit and to keep from squishing the cord. I place my warm hide over it and my moist hide and water bowl on the cool side of the tank so it does not evaporate fast or get bacteria too fast. you can get a lamp dimmer that you can plug the mat into and adj if needed. I just set up my tank as well today and so far on full blast with the small model heat pad (i only have a 10 gallon) you would get the medium one. My temp in the warm hide is 93 topped out and i have the dimmer about 3/4 on. air temp on cool side is 75 only one red light on now but not on during the day Gecko1 (1 of 1).jpg
 

blair683

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Ok, thanks. My tank is already raised so that would be good with the under tank pad. We planned on leaving the light on 12 hours during the day and off 12 hours at night. Now when you say your warm side is 93 with the mat, is your thermometer placed about where mine is? Thanks for the info so far.
 

nwtampaguy34

New Member
Messages
10
Location
Palm Harbor
No i did not attach my thermometer to the glass. Leopard geckos cant climb glass so i am moving it througout the tank to get readings. Inside the warm hide its 93 above it on top is 87 and the other side of the tank is staying at 75 i keep my home at 75 as well.
 

blair683

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Ok, thanks for the advice. I think I am for sure going to buy an under the tank heating pad. Any other information is greatly appreciated.
 

Music City Geckos

New Member
Messages
269
Location
Nashville
The bottom of the tank is what you need to worry about for the heat. You need to get a heat mat and a thermometer and place the probe for the thermometer on the floor of the tank, usually inside the warm hide and set it to 90-94 degrees. The Leo's need the belly heat to aid in digestion of their food. They do not need the lights. As far as using a dimmer switch I wouldn't. Just get the thermostat and save yourself the headache of constantly adjusting it. I feel mealworms are better than crickets for a couple reasons. Crickets can be loud and they stink.
 

blair683

New Member
Messages
6
Location
Ohio
Ok, Thanks we are definitely going to go with the heat mat. When you say just use a thermostat, can I buy a heat mat with a built in thermostat or is that something I buy form the hardware or something. In my picture would the cave type rock on the left be the better warm hide or would the log. I am kind of worried because we got our gecko yesterday and he hasn't left the log since. I am hoping he is just going through a learning period of getting used to his new surroundings.
 

nwtampaguy34

New Member
Messages
10
Location
Palm Harbor
Actually i am using paper towels for now as my substrate and have 2 layers and i am hitting 93 at full on the dimmer so seems to me like i dont even need the dimmer or thermostat just got to make sure it does not go out or go bad every day.
 

Kristi23

Ghoulish Geckos
Messages
16,181
Location
IL
Lights will stress out a leopard gecko and are not needed. An under tank heater will need to be attached to a thermostat or rheostat to make sure you get the right temps. You will need a temp gun to accurately read floor temps. The warm side on the floor should be around 90-93 degrees. Air temp will be cooler.
 

Visit our friends

Top