Random tips for newbies

Pretty self explanatory topic, being new to all reptiles I looked in to the best for reptile pets (that make interesting long term pets too) obviously, these gorgeous little geckos were the clear choice. I found this forum and decided why not ask the pros for any random little tips that make my life, and my new best little buddy's life, easier and better?

Literally any advice or tips are welcome, hopefully other people find this thread useful too!

Thanks from us both!


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Temperature: Leopard Geckos need a warm spot in their tank at about 90 degrees F. This needs to be accomplished with belly heat. I suggest an Under Tank Heater used with a thermostat.

Substrate: No loose substrate. You can use paper towel, reptile carpet, tile, etc.

Food: I personally feed mealworms but others here feed crickets and roaches. A variety would be good also.

Calcium/Vitamins: I recommend Repashy Plus.

Housing: I have had the best success when housing all my geckos individually. But do not keep males with other males. Do not keep males with other females unless you want babies.

With the food situation, I've found unless he can hunt it for a few minutes, he's has no interest. That kinda rules out worms for me.

1 important question, is there a set routine for teaching a Leo to accept being handled? He's about 6 months old and never really been handled much before




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Get a scale so you can weight them at least twice a month. Also keep a record of their weights, this will allow you to tell very quickly if your gecko is eating enough or not. That info will tell you quickly about the health of your gecko.


Get a good digital infrared thermometer so you can check the temperature quick and easy.

Samyb24 said:

With the food situation, I've found unless he can hunt it for a few minutes, he's has no interest. That kinda rules out worms for me.

1 important question, is there a set routine for teaching a Leo to accept being handled? He's about 6 months old and never really been handled much before




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A healthy gecko will not die of starvation due to a full bowl of mealworms! But watching them hunt crickets makes for great enjoyment! And crickets have a higher nutritional value anyways. As far as handling, he will get used to you. He will start to associate you with food which should make him come out more when you are nearby. Just take it slow.

Regarding the mealworms, I've put some in the tank and noticed that some of them crawl out of the dish. If the leos like to "hunt," is it a problem if the worms get out and crawl around a bit?

And regarding activity, I know all leos will be different, but they're all nocturnal, so they'll have that much in common. At what time of my waking day (til 11pm) should I expect them to be most active? Early morning? Dusk onward, etc?

Russellm0704 said:

A healthy gecko will not die of starvation due to a full bowl of mealworms! But watching them hunt crickets makes for great enjoyment! And crickets have a higher nutritional value anyways. As far as handling, he will get used to you. He will start to associate you with food which should make him come out more when you are nearby. Just take it slow.

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I hand fed my leo a mealworm last night - that was kind of cool. I know - you don't want to do it so much so as to create a habit, but it's kind of fun! My kids might enjoy that a bit.

scottm91 said:

I hand fed my leo a mealworm last night - that was kind of cool. I know - you don't want to do it so much so as to create a habit, but it's kind of fun! My kids might enjoy that a bit.

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I see no problem with hand feeding your leo every once in a while. And yes they should be most active at dawn and dusk. At least that is when mine are most active probably because that is when I am feeding them or cleaning their tubs.

Good advice so far. My random advice is to learn what you can about how they live naturally and provide them with opportunities to do those things. I don't mean make naturalistic set ups (mine are housed in tubs with plastic hides), I just mean you should respect their nature. They are nocturnal, so it's best not to bother them much during the day. They are solitary, so it's best to allow them to have their own space (in my opinion). Proper temps, places to hide, always keep your humid hide moist. Have variety in your feeders. Oh, and don't make them too fat. I personally think there are leopard geckos out there that are way too fat. I usually decide on a target weight for mine (based on appearance, I decide at what weight they look healthiest) and adjust their weekly food to keep them at around that weight (except females I plan to breed in the upcoming season I put ample weight on for obvious reasons. Females I am not planning on breeding that season generally have higher target weights than males in case they decide to not eat the entire time they are ovulating).

Also, learn to recognize their metabolic patterns. People are always getting freaked out because their leopard stopped eating. Well that could be a problem, but it's usually not if your set up is good. It's usually the time of year, the fact that you just got it, you moved tanks, female is ovulating, etc.

Regarding the mealworms, I've put some in the tank and noticed that some of them crawl out of the dish. If the leos like to "hunt," is it a problem if the worms get out and crawl around a bit?

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The problem I see with this is that as soon as mealies get out, they immediately hide under something. I don't use any substrate in my tubs, so the mealies that get out just go under bowls and hides.

And regarding activity, I know all leos will be different, but they're all nocturnal, so they'll have that much in common. At what time of my waking day (til 11pm) should I expect them to be most active? Early morning? Dusk onward, etc?

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They are primarily nocturnal, but dawn and dusk are still times when some of them are active. Once it is dark in the room (or before it is light) is when you can expect them to start moving around more.

1 important question, is there a set routine for teaching a Leo to accept being handled? He's about 6 months old and never really been handled much before

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IMO, there is no set routine. My strategy for getting them to accept handling is very simple. I'm not a big handler (as in, I don't take my leopard geckos out just to hang out with them normally). The extent of my handling is usually to look them over to health problems, to take pictures, or to remove for cleaning or removing shed. When I have a skittish leo, I just reach in and pick it up and do whatever I was going to do (clean the tub, look over the gecko for injuries or whatever) and put it back. For the first while, they try to run a little when I initially pick them up. But after they are in my hand, they are normally content to just sit there. Over a period of days/weeks the gecko just get habituated and stops caring if I pick it up. One of my hatchlings would screech and lunge whenever I opened her tub, but I picked her up anyways and now she is a few months old and very tame.

However, other people have other strategies. One I've heard is taking it in steps. So you would spend a bunch of time with your hand in the tank not touching the gecko. When your gecko stops being freaked out by your hand being in the tank (can take days/weeks) you move to touching the gecko while in the tank. Once used to that, you pick up the gecko in the tank and hold it close to the ground and let it leave when it wants, etc. I think you get the drift.

Both ways work. My way is habituation by flooding while the other is gradual habituation. I do my way because it requires less time from me. It doesn't appear to me that the stress of my way has any significant affect on them either. They still eat well and do become tame. My way does require you not to flinch when they move fast, though. The key is definitely a sure hand. Reach in, pick up gently, hold firmly but gently. If you pull your hand back when the gecko runs or you think you might drop the gecko if it struggles in your hand, then maybe do it the other way.

Do they not drop there tails under the initial stress of being handled?


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They can, but I have never had one drop a tail. If you think about it evolutionary, a gecko would only want to drop its tail if it absolutely had to. All of their fat is stored in their tail, which is extremely valuable in nature. They would not be likely to give up all of that storage easily.