New snake owner, some questions

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
I am caring for a friend's Ball Python over the summer. He has had this snake for 15+ years and estimates that it is about 17 years old, quite an old snake! He is a Biology teacher, and has kept the snake in his classroom, so it is used to some pretty wild things. During the summer, though, being away from school and all, he cannot care for it as he usually would, and asked if I would watch it over the summer.

Well, I was kind of surprised when I saw the snake's enclosure. The snake alone looked healthy, nice and thick, but there was no hide box! Well, once he left, I made a makeshift hide box out of an old shoebox and placed it in the enclosure and the snake went right in. Also, he did not have a heat source for the python. I am planning on getting it an undertank heater tomorrow, but until then, I am using all I have, a 60w red reptile bulb. I also refilled the water bowl with some water treated with Reptisafe for some nice electrolytes for the new arrival.

He/she (do not know the gender) is the sweetest snake. From having lots of experience with kids handling him/her at school, the snake is very docile and tame. I am told he/she (eh, I'll go with 'he' for now) has never bitten anyone. I handled him for about five minutes while I was making the hide box and he just slithered around slowly, flicking his tongue and investigating his new surroundings.

I would like to think that, by bringing him to a much quieter place, apposed to a classroom where 30 students clamber in 6 times a day, this is sort of a vacation for him. I guess I just have some acclimating questions.

1. The red reptile bulb. Can the snake be hurt by the infrared rays?
2. How long should I wait for the snake to get settled in before I begin offering food?

Thanks for anyone who took the time to read this.
 

fl_orchidslave

New Member
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4,074
Location
St. Augustine, FL
I don't know about the bulb, we use heat tape. You need to know what it has been feeding on, rats or mice, frozen or pre-killed, and when was the last time it ate. I hope its' been eating at least medium rats.......
 

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
It has been feeding on live medium rats, and the last its ate was two months ago, if that's what I can remember, it's probably shorter, though. It shed recently, so that was partially the reason. The snake does not look thin to me, still rather bulky like I mentioned above.

I'm just trying to make it feel comfortable and the transition not stressful. I think the hide box is really doing wonders, the snake loves it!
 

fl_orchidslave

New Member
Messages
4,074
Location
St. Augustine, FL
It should eat at the very least, one medium rat a month. If it were in our house, it would be offered after having it 2 or 3 days since the last feeding was missed, then twice a month. Live rats are dangerous and can bite up a snake if left unattended, leaving scars that last forever. Our balls get either pre-killed or F/T. One is an old girl of 24 and she's huge. Takes down a large rat like a spaghetti noodle, even when she's gravid.
 

fl_orchidslave

New Member
Messages
4,074
Location
St. Augustine, FL
Yes, I'd give it a couple days to get all comfy, then try to feed. Do you have a gram scale big enough to weigh it? I'm just curious if its a good size for it's age. We took one in on the rescue that hadn't eaten in 8 months and was so skinny that he ate right after the kids dropped him off.
 

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
No, I'm sorry, I don't have a gram scale. And I wouldn't know proper snake weights for age, I'm kind of new to them. The snake is active, though. As I'm writing this, he's out slithering and exploring his enclosure. I have the lights turned off and the red bulb on so its nice and dark for him. I watched him drink some water for a couple of minutes, seemed like he was thirsty. At least he'll be hydrated.
 

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
Do Ball Pythons enjoy humidity? I'm thinking about buying a large Tupperware plastic container, filling it with moist paper towel, and placing it on the warm side. I notices that the snake, when I handled it, has some shed skin stuck to his scales. Would the snake like that?
 

Darcpixie

New Member
Messages
41
You said it's in a tank? Many ball python owners that have them in a tank will help keep humidity by partially covering the screen top. I use Cypress for my bp's since it doesn't mold, and have them in a cb-70 rack for the big'uns or a 6 quart tub for the wee ones.

I would suggest cypress, covering the top of the enclosure, and possibly a nice big Tupperware with spagnum in it for a humid hide. Maybe some pictures would help?

If there is shed stuck right now, for a bigger snake, a Tupperware container big enough for it, with a towel (bath towel) with warm (not hot) water for an hour or so is usually sufficient to get it all off.

PICTURES!! Please. :)

I will also vote for F/T or fresh killed. The risks outway the benefits for those of us with small collections, as long as the snake in question is willing to eat F/T.

The nice part is, while increased handling can help make a snake more docile, almost all ball pythons have that same temperament. They are such easy-going kiddos!
 
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LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
I wish the snake ate F/T or fresh killed, but he eats live, I'm guessing he's been eating live for his whole life (he's pretty old) according to the friend I got him from.... Do you think I should buy some small/medium rats for next week to try and convert him to f/t?

So moss is good for snakes? I mean, they won't accidentally ingest it or anything?
 
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Darcpixie

New Member
Messages
41
Given that snakes only ingest much of anything 1-4 times a month, there is little risk. I would offer him a nice, thawed in water hot from your tap, rat on tongs, and see what happens. Mine always seem to prefer to be able to ambush their prey from within their hide, and if they miss, I have to let them "reset". It's worth a try though, less nervewracking feeding is always better!!
 

fl_orchidslave

New Member
Messages
4,074
Location
St. Augustine, FL
Since he hasn't eaten in a couple months, it would be a good time to try a fresh killed, dangling it from some kind of tong. Even though he's old and always had live, he's hungry and won't be so choosy. Balls kept in tanks loose needed humidity through the screen tops, so you might want to look at some floor tiles to set atop his tank, that suit your taste. Aspen bedding is fine, preferably the shaved pieces not the splintery looking stuff. And a big water dish. We only ever used damp moss in lay boxes, but have soaked a snake if there was any problems shedding. A pillowcase with a wet towel inside works too. Since ours are kept in tubs the humidity stays good for shedding.
 

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
What kind of moss do you use? Also, would the Zoo Med Aspen bedding be okay?

BTW I think I should mention, if you all don't remember, that yesterday was the first day bringing him here in my home, and I offered a live rat to him twice and he refused, but I think it was just too early to begin trying to feed.
 
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LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
Going to go buy a UTH, some aspen, and some frozen feeders. I'll feel better knowing that, even though its not the snakes preferred food, theres food in the house.
 

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
I've just been noticing a slight wheezing noise when the snake breathes... I think it may have a respiratory infection. But not severe, though, not yet, there's no drooling or mucus. Probably was because of the decreased heat it went through in the care of my friend. New UTH is plugged in, tank cleaned out, aspen put in, and temps are around 90 degrees F right now. I'm a little concerned, I know RIs can be fatal, but for all I know, it could just be a piece of shed skin stuck in her snout.

I heard to heal respiratory infections you need to increase the temps and decrease the humidity, am I right?
 

LeopardShade

Spotted Shadow
Messages
1,001
Location
Western Montana
UPDATE - I do apologize for never telling any of you guys what happened to this snake.

Well, the summer passed (quite a long time ago), and the snake went back with its other owner. I tried f/t and live rats (what it usually eats) and it would not take any. I offered food roughly every week. It was active, moved around, drank water, but would not eat. The wheezing noise I mentioned eventually went away after I increased the temps, still don't know if it was a sign of an early respiratory condition. The owner was uncertain of the gender, and so was I. So summer ended and he took the snake back. I told him to please keep the UTH and the hide box in there (two of the things I had spent my money on for the snake while it was with me) from now on, and he did.

Needless to say, I felt like I failed. It was my job to provide proper care for this snake and I couldn't get it to eat. I didn't know if something was wrong with it, or if he/she (I switched the pronouns around constantly) was just fasting. I was confused and upset at myself.

So, another month passed, maybe two, and then I got a call from the snake's owner. He had told me that a couple days ago the snake had laid 6 eggs (all infertile), and she took her first meal in a while, two rats, that night! She was now, he said, very skinny, and he was doing his best to get her back to a good weight. I was elated to say the least. Keep in mind that that was the first snake I had ever dealt with and I never even once considered the fact that she could be gravid.

So for future sake, was there anything I should have done to have seen this ahead of time? Or was there something I had done wrong? And is it typical for gravid females to go off feed when they have eggs inside them? Please don't flame me, I don't know nearly as much about snakes as I do geckos.
 
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