Hypothetical DIY

SageMonster

New Member
Messages
8
Hello all! -Wave- I'm new here but I've been reading for a while. Happy to be here, too! I'm very excited to learn from the gecko pros. Anywho, I've been putting a lot of thought into efficient, sturdy structures for both gecko shelves/racks and egg incubators.

Please feel free to poke holes and make suggestions! I want to build it and I want to build it right. I want it to last a very long time. I plan on building it much bigger than what I'm starting with, just so there's plenty of room for expansion.

Shelving is pretty simple. I want a gradient of heat, but would rather not do -under- the tubs. Preferably I would want the flexwatt in the back. (I've used flexwatt before with my tarantulas, so I know a bit about it, but I've never done anything like -this- before.) I've heard of heating cable. If you have any experience with the stuff, please enlighten me. :)

One thing I do know, is that heat rises, and the structure should be made of something that has little issue trapping heat. This leads me to efficiency. I'm relatively stingy with my money, rightfully so, we all work for our dollars, and if I can save on my electric bill, I'm going to do it. So I was considering using insulation.

Before anyone gets scared, no my animals will not be exposed to anything harmful. I meant within two layers of plywood and 'topped off' with another strip. Let me explain what I mean:

For the top (as well as back, and side walls):

- 1/2" plywood sheet - *layer of insulation* - 1/2" plywood sheet -
Then of course top it off and seal it with an appropriately sized plywood strip.

Then the concern of how the heat would affect the wood. Well I would probably treat the wood before building with an outdoor-friendly wood stain. It would give me peace of mind, but would it be necessary? My ideal high temp would be 85-90 F.

I imagine with the insulation and a stable in-home temperature, with a good probe and thermometer it wouldn't take much energy at all to achieve my desired temps. What do you folks think? Has anybody ever tinkered with insulation before?

Same goes for thoughts on a hatchery/incubator. Some sort of closed 'box' with the same idea of insulation inside of the walls and such. But how would I maintain a stable temperature all throughout and not have a gradient? (I would be building 2, one for male temps and one for female temps.)

Flexwatt I don't think would work for this, unless I had it top/bottom/sides/back but even then I don't know how it would work with little air circulation. Has anyone experimented with flexwatt to heat an entire enclosure, and not just the bottom? As stated I really don't want a gradient. What else do you think I could use?

I know it's quite a lot, but I seriously just want to discuss some ideas. ;) I'm a firm believer that you can build anything yourself. It's more fun when you get to design your own setups.

Thanks so much, guys!
 
Last edited:

mango+cola

New Member
Messages
169
Location
Ontario
I buy glass terrariums, so I can't really help you there. But, with this sentence "I want a gradient of heat, but would rather not do -under- the tubs. Preferably I would want the flexwatt in the back", I was a little worried because geckos do need the heat under the tank because its belly heat that allows for proper digestion. Maybe other people who have racks can give you tips. When I had my baby gecko in a plastic tub, I just put one of the smaller heat pads under it and it worked fine.
 

SageMonster

New Member
Messages
8
Mango, thanks for the feedback!

I'm slightly confused as I've read some people insist that geckos -do- need belly heat, and I've read that others say it's not necessary, as long as proper temps are kept throughout the enclosure. So if I -were- to do under heat, how would I control temps? For instance, a heat mat in a house of 60 degrees would achieve a different temperature of that in a home of 75.

Like I said, I've read so many different things. >_< I'm rather OCD. Do you have any advice or suggestions? Or would the heat tape (under the tub) adjusted to 80-85 on the warm side be good for them?

Thanks again!
 

NinjaDuo

New Member
Messages
566
Location
Central Texas
Mango, thanks for the feedback!

I'm slightly confused as I've read some people insist that geckos -do- need belly heat, and I've read that others say it's not necessary, as long as proper temps are kept throughout the enclosure. So if I -were- to do under heat, how would I control temps? For instance, a heat mat in a house of 60 degrees would achieve a different temperature of that in a home of 75.

Like I said, I've read so many different things. >_< I'm rather OCD. Do you have any advice or suggestions? Or would the heat tape (under the tub) adjusted to 80-85 on the warm side be good for them?

Thanks again!

Well with any (decent) thermostat a probe is placed near the warm side, it reads what the floor temp is and adjust.

Ambient air temp isn't a huge issue, but belly heat is preferable.
 

SageMonster

New Member
Messages
8
Ninja, thank you! It would be equally easy to line up the flexwatt under the tubs (on the shelf) as it would be to put them in the back. I've just read some complaints that the wood would sag due to the heat. Then again, 1/2"-3/4" thick shelves treated with outdoor (more heat-resistant) stain should take care of the problem.

Now does anyone have any suggestions or ideas as far as the efficiency of using insulation to trap heat? Or any feedback on whether flexwatt or heat cable works better/is more efficient/etc?

Thanks!
 

NinjaDuo

New Member
Messages
566
Location
Central Texas
Ninja, thank you! It would be equally easy to line up the flexwatt under the tubs (on the shelf) as it would be to put them in the back. I've just read some complaints that the wood would sag due to the heat. Then again, 1/2"-3/4" thick shelves treated with outdoor (more heat-resistant) stain should take care of the problem.

Now does anyone have any suggestions or ideas as far as the efficiency of using insulation to trap heat? Or any feedback on whether flexwatt or heat cable works better/is more efficient/etc?

Thanks!

Layer like this:
1.(wood)shelf
2.aluminum tape
3. Heat tape

Reduces heat transfer from the bottom and saves you a few pennies holding more heat.
 

SageMonster

New Member
Messages
8
Never even thought about aluminum tape. To be honest I've never really had anything on a large scale, so the rack system is a bit new to me (but seems to be the best way to go). Thanks everyone for the feedback!

Will stick with belly heat, too.
 

katie_

Wonder Reptiles
Messages
2,645
Location
Ontario
My father built me an inexpensive and rather handsome rack. He used aluminum tape and heat cable.
 

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