Upgrading to a 20 gal long

[Ryanurso1]

Just a few questions:

1. I notice the UTH for the 20 gallon when put under the tank only covers roughly a quarter of the tank. Is that sufficient or should I go to a larger UTH? I guess what percentage of the tank should the UTH cover?

2. I want to potentially build a second level to utilize space since the leo isn't arboreal. Would this be a good/bad idea because maybe she will get lost? I was only planning on a 2nd level that would be about 25% of the tanks length just for extra exploring area. I haven't seen many 2nd levels so maybe there are reasons for this.

3. Last but not least, how many hides is good? With extra space moving from a 10 gal to a 20, I've got more room for hides. Would having 2 hides on each the warm and cool side and 1 in the middle of the tank be too much?

Thanks in advance!

 

[OnlineGeckos]

1. It should be a 1/3 of the tank, but doesn't have to be exact. It's more important to measure the temperature on the substrate and get a good stable 90-95 degrees F temperature going, more so than the size of the UTH.

2. 2nd levels are fine, many people have utilized 2nd levels especially when they are housing multiple geckos in the same tank. It gives you just that much more surface space. As whether they'll use it that really depends on how well you build it, and how safe they feel being there. Just make sure it's secured well so it doesn't ever collapse for fall.

3. They pretty much only need 3 hides, a warm hide, a moist hide, and a cool hide. So anything extra are just for decoration. But if you are planning on putting a 2nd gecko in, you will need to double that amount to make sure they both get their own hide spots.

 

[Ryanurso1]

Thanks for the quick response! I'm planning on constructing the second level very well and over a month of time so I do it right. As far as the hides are concerned, we've never needed a moist hide. Her humidity stays a constant 40% year round because we are in an underground basement with a dehumidifer, this is the best we can get the humidity levels. Her sheds are always very healthy with no sign of even the smallest skin on her toes, face or tail after shedding. That being said, is the humid hide necessary for our situation? I thought yes initially but have gotten by fine without it. I look forward to your response!

 

[OnlineGeckos]

I would suggest having a moist hide regardless. It would also make sure if she ever lays any eggs (fertile or infertile), that she finds a proper laybox so she doesn't get eggbound.

 

[Ryanurso1]

Thanks for the good info. I'll definitely get on the humid hide asap. Do females always last eggs even if infertile? What signs would she give when she is? Also while I've got you here mardy, do I just put moist paper towels in a tupperware container on the warm side and change daily?

Because I'm always learning... I was told by a petco employee that even though we're dusting crickets with the calcium that I believe contains uvb and keeping the shades open on the opposite side of the room during the day, a uva/b light is still necessary. Is this true? If so how long do I keep it on during the day? Thanks mardy!

 

[Ryanurso1]

We bought some sphagnum new zealand moss but heard bad things in the forums about it so we got scared away from it.

 

[OnlineGeckos]

They don't always lay infertile eggs, they often absorb them. But when/if they need to lay, being eggbound is a very serious issue and a common cause of it is to not have a suitable laysite. You can do a forum search to find some pictures of what a gravid female looks like from the under side. You pretty much see a pink spot in the middle of their stomach when they start to ovulate. If they got eggs in them, they'll bulge more in the shape of an elliptical eggs.

I also use paper towels because I've seen too many people post saying they had their geckos ingest moss & get impacted. You got it right, moist them up, stuff them in a container and place it somewhere warm. Some people like to place it in between warm & cool side, so it's not sitting directly on top of the UTH, but maybe only half of it is sitting on the warm floor.

Here's an example:

 

[Ryanurso1]

You've been the most helpful and I really appreciate it! I'll do similar to that picture but cut a hole in the side. Thats still suitable right? Thanks a lot mardy...

 

[OnlineGeckos]

They don't really require light as long as you supplement them with D3 once a week. D3 is necessary to help them absorb calcium. Overdosing D3 is bad so don't ever leave Calcium + D3 inside the tank. Control it by dusting your feeders with a multi-vitamin supplement that contains D3 once or twice a week. Supplements such as Repashy Calcium Plus, Zoo Med's Reptivite, or Rep-cal Herptivite are all good supplements to dust with.

Giving them some sort of day/night cycle is a good thing, most of us do it by just opening the blinds a bit to let the room shine a bit brighter with indirect sunlight.

 

[OnlineGeckos]

You've been the most helpful and I really appreciate it! I'll do similar to that picture but cut a hole in the side. Thats still suitable right? Thanks a lot mardy...

Holes on the sides are fine, half of mine have the holes on the side, half on the top lol. I get a feel of what they like to use, some of my geckos won't use them if the hole is on the top, but some prefer it.

 

[Ryanurso1]

Thanks I appreciate your help and will implement all of those things!

 

[madrv]

Thanks I appreciate your help and will implement all of those things!

You need at least a 40 gallon for two leos so they each have their own hides.