how long is too long?

So I recently got 3 new leopard geckos. Each are in quarantine. Each from the same breeder and were fed mealworms dusted with Vionate/Osteo-Form and kept on solid (not loose) substrate.
They were bought January 6th. Since I have had them, they have each pooped normally, but I have only seen 1-2 poops in each cage. The male has eaten 2 mealworms, but the females haven't eaten anything as of yet. They all have fat tails, but have lost 3-5 grams each since I weighed them the night that I got them. I haven't been handling them, other than the night that they came and today (to do health check/weighing).
Each cage is set up with the following...paper towel substrate, 3 hides (hot, cool, moist), water bowl, calcium without vitamin d3 (Zoo-Med brand) bowl, mealworm bowl (with Repashy bug burger in center), heat mat on one end (temp 90-93), cool side at 75-78, and each are provided with 2 gut-loaded dubias dusted with Repashy Calcium Plus for 1 hour each night.
If you need me to fill out the health form, I will, but not sure if I should do it for each, or just for all.

Mainly wondering how long should I wait for them to get used to their new enclosures before worring about them not eating. They all seem healthy and active otherwise.

What's the longest one of your new leopard geckos has gone without eating when placed in a new enclosure?

all geckos will differ. my quickest was only about a week but my longest was about 2 months. i would give it a few weeks more and no handling ect till they start to eat again. that is providing that they dont lose lots of weigh, if they lose moe weight quickly a vet check up wii be in order.

good luck

I would agree with sausage. I have had a couple geckos that were really affected by a move and refused to eat for several weeks. I also found that some were terribly stressed living in a 10 all glass cage in my living room but started eating like horses once quarantine was over and they were integrated into my rack. Especially albinos - they seem to be freaked by the bright lights and/or spread out "furnishings"more than the others.

How old are the geckos you got? If they're little guys I might worry a bit more than if they're full grown.

They range from 4-6 months of age...about 45-55 grams each. Guess I'll try darkening their cages a bit more. As for furnishings, it's already pretty cramped in there with the hides and bowls lol.

dont black it out to much as that could freak them out more when it comes to unblacking it lol. they will come around soon im sure

I wouldn't handle them at all until they start eating regularly, for sure. Maybe try offering a different type of feeder for now, like Crickets, just to make sure they're eating something.

Not sure I would black them out as much as maybe move them to a less bright, less trafficked area of your house (if they're not in one already). I live in a 2BR apartment and kept mine in the living room where I have a big overhead light. They were okay eating and coming out at night but they are eating much more and I find them out and about more often now that they're in my rack in the quiet spare bedroom.

Here's something I posted earlier this month.
Reminds me of my first experience with Leo's.
This behavior is normal. Geckos dislike change, it stresses them out. i have had some that refused to eat for 4 to 5 weeks, and although stressful for me they ultimately ate.
The key is to leave them completely alone for at least 3 -4 days for juvies, 7-10 for adults. Don't offer food, especially don't hold them, this stresses them out more. Don't offer crickets or dubia or superworms, as they will climb on them or nip at them, further stressing them. Place enough water to last a couple of days and don't even peek at them...resist the temptation (people lose they're geckos for months and they have been surprised to find them alive).
I like to cover the sides of their enclosure with paper to eliminate visual stimulation as well and only remove the paper one side at a time per week after they've been eating for a while. If you chose to do this now, move very slowly and be as quiet as possible.
When you do try to feed after a few dys, place the mealworms in their dish, add water and leave the gecko alone for a few hours before you check.
Some geckos do not respond to mealworms. In this case, offer one cricket at a time.
Sometimes it's hard to tell whether or not they are eating, unless you're counting mealworms. If they're pooping they are eating.

Here's the best video I've found on this topic, by my friend John from Geckoboa.
YouTube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UllLo1ZkEVo&feature=youtu.be
Here's an article on the topic.
Answering "Why won't my gecko eat?" | Gecko Time


Good luck!

Well, I do have the cages in an area near a light, so I'll just keep the light off in the evening.
Also, they were used to eating mealworms, so I offered mealworms. All food items are in a "mealworm bowl". Commonly seen at shows...white plastic bowl with clear lid to prevent mealworms/superworms from climbing out. So the bugs aren't climbing around the cage startling the geckos.
Their cages are currently covered on all sides other than the top and front, and have been that way the whole time, but might place a thin, light sheet over the front and part of the top. That way, light still goes through.
I was thinking of using crickets, but I would imagine that would stress them more if they aren't used to things jumping around and crawling on them...of course, I would only leave them in there for 30 minutes. So for now, I'm sticking to just mealworms/dubias to keep them from stressing too much. And yes, I've been counting. I've been keeping 10 mealworms in the bowl and offering 2 dubias for an hour each evening. But I guess I'll stop the dubias for now since that's likely causing them stress since they have never seen them before and I keep reaching in the cage on a nightly basis just to move the dubias.

Oops! Just noticed the link to the video was missing... I added it above.
Leopard Gecko Starter Guide from GeckoBoa Reptiles - YouTube