A myriad of health probelms

[Citadel]

A month ago my leopard gecko developed mouth rot, this was treated by antibiotics, however he hasn't got better (he's 8 years old) his gums are still slightly red although he can now close his mouth properly the skin around his mouth is still slightly risen. If that wasn't bad enough red scabby marks have started appearing on his skin, he's addicted to wax worms (he lost weight and I was told to feed him them to get his weight up again, he currently weighs 32g), and he turned a dark shade of bronze form a bright yellow and while he sheds properly he doesn't eat it.

 

[indyana]

It sounds as though he is having a very slow recovery and could possibly use some more vet attention. That being said, having an ideal environment and nutrition can really help a gecko recover faster and stay healthier. I would suggest reviewing this caresheet and determining whether your setup has the appropriate temperatures and you are properly supplementing his diet:
http://www.onlinegeckos.com/leopard-gecko-careguide-caresheet.html

If you'd like us to troubleshoot in detail, feel free to copy and fill out this survey and post it here for review by members:
http://geckoforums.net/f130-health-medications/70912.htm

 

[Citadel]

Thanks for the reply.

About your leo:
- He's Male
- He's 8 Years old and weighs 32g
- Owned for 4 years
- My sister gave him to me.

A) Health/History
- I handle him once a day.
- Isn't as active as before.
- None to my knowledge.
B) Fecals
- They are a pale yellow and runny.
- 2 days ago
C) Problem
- He's been unwell for 4 months now with varying severity.

Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Rectangle, known number of litres(quite large)
- Glass sliding door
- Calci sand
- He has two hides on big the other small.
B) Heating
- Heat mat, overhead light, night bulb.
- Cage temps (hot side 35 Celsius, 20 Celsius)
- Turned on and off by a timer.
- Small thermometer.
- One big overhead light (white), one small purple light unknown volts (probability 60 volts)
C) Cage mates None

Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- Just started feeding him a mix of Meal worms, Ensure Plus, Arkvits, Acidophilus, Pumpkins, Dioralyte, a/d and Milk Thistle Tablets.
- He's being hand fed.
B) Supplements Vitamins in the mix above.

 

[DrCarrotTail]

My first step would be to get a fecal checked for parasites. Many times a belly full of worms will reduce their appetite and make them lose weight quickly once they get bad. Make sure he's on a good calcium and vitamin supplement. Not sure about all the things you describe in the mix you're feeding but you might want to check out the GGG Slurry recipe that's a sticky in this section. I don't know correct dosages or how much would OD a small gecko of the holistic supplements you describe. Better safe than sorry. If the fecal comes back negative then I would start to worry and look for other causes. A general vet check would probably be a good idea as well.

 

[indyana]

Reviewing your setup details above, only a few things jump out of me. I'll outline them here, but I think Lisa's advice above is good. You should certain have a vet check your gecko out (mouth issue and general health) and test for parasites.


- Calci-sand -
I really don't like to see people using this substrate. There is a danger of the gecko consuming too much of it, encouraged by the calcium content. Ill geckos (or juveniles) are usually kept on a simpler material, like paper towel.

- 35 C warm side -
If this is the air temperature, it's a little hot. Ideally, you're shooting for a ground surface temperature (measured by a temp gun or a digital temperature probe cable) of 33-35 C, with the ambient air temperature lower (anything 22 - 29 C is good). The ground temperature range is important for proper digestion.

- Hides - You didn't mention if either of the two hides was a moist hide. It's important for geckos to have a moist/humid hide to keep hydrated and allow for easy shedding. This would be even more important for your enclosure as you are using overhead lights, which can dry out the air. If you do not currently have a moist hide, I would suggest adding one. The easiest/cheapest one you can make out of a tupperware container. Just cut a hole large enough for the gecko to get inside and keep damp paper towel or EcoEarth-type material in there.


If you have an questions, feel free to post, and let us know how you make out.

 

[Citadel]

I've just added a moist hide. He seams to be about to shed but appearers kind of greasy.

 

[Citadel]

Some help on the heating would be good. I can't figure out hoe to regulate it properly, if I just need a different wattage bulb what wattage would you recommend?

 

[Citadel]

Would some pictures of him help?

 

[indyana]

To regulate a heat mat that is running too hot (or under tank heater as well), most folks buy a thermostat with a temperature probe and dial to set the temperature. They stick the probe on the cage floor above the center of the heater and set the thermostat to whatever reading keeps the floor in the correct range (as read by a temp gun or by a digital temperature cable probe). You may have to set the thermostat a little higher or lower to get the right temps, depending how accurate the thermostat is.

As for the overhead light, if the light is making the air too hot, you can have a few options: a lower wattage bulb, a rheostat to turn down the wattage, or a lamp fixture with a built-in dimmer.

I do not think pictures would make too much difference in our advice, as I think he should see a vet based upon the ongoing mouth problems and weight loss.

 

[Citadel]

Dexter just died, I feel terrible.

 

[sausage]

so sorry for your loss . you tried your best to help him by taking him to the vets and at least he's not suffering any more. so sad.

 

[indyana]

My condolences, Morgan.

 

[DrCarrotTail]

So sorry to hear