Cages next to each other..

Chosen010

FANATiC
Messages
57
Location
Lubbock, TX
I rescued an albino leo over the weekend and have set up his new cage next to my first leo's cage. Today I noticed that my first leo was on the cold side trying to climb the wall of the cage. He/she is an unsexed juvi but seems VERY interested in the other leo for some reason.

The rescue is, I'm told, about two years old. A tad overweight and I haven't attempted to sex it yet either. I wanted to give it time to adjust before handling.

Is this normal behavior or is there possible an opposite sex attraction going on?

Thanks in advance..
 

Chosen010

FANATiC
Messages
57
Location
Lubbock, TX
I have not invested in a scale yet. I have had it for approximately 3.5 months... it's a pet shop leo, as I didn't understand all that I do now when I decided to get into this as a hobby.

I'm fairly new to leo's but try to read as much as possible and am on these forums more than anything. I figured if anyone knew, someone here would :)..
 

Chosen010

FANATiC
Messages
57
Location
Lubbock, TX
I can certainly move the cages. They're not exactly side by side, but probably 6-8 inches apart and one slightly elevated more than the other. Original cage is a 20 long on a stand and the new cage is a med exo-terra 18x18x18 that sits up on my desk.

I'm curious why that's not considered a proper quarantine? Not doubting you, just curious.
 

M_surinamensis

Shillelagh Law
Messages
1,165
Because it's within the kind of distance that some parasites and most insects can travel and close enough that cross-contamination of bacterial and viral agents is possible.

Don't get me wrong, it's not the kind of situation where someone gets a rescue and just drops it in a tank with their existing pet that same day... it's just still a bit risky.

Quarantine protocol is something that people have some very different ideas about. Different building, different room, different wall, different rack, different tub... totally separate items used in and around the enclosures and animals, versus using the same set of tools. Which disinfection agents are used with what kind of frequency... the inclusion of things like disposable gloves into the routine. The duration is a big one.

What you ultimately decide on for your practices is your choice. Weigh the risks and the chances, consider the kinds of costs and labor involved and arrive at something that works for you... although at some point towards the minimalist end, there's no real point.

My personal approach is to treat it as strictly as is feasible for me; a duration of 180 days, in a separate room as far from other animals as possible, with its own set of tools and equipment which never leave that room, using antibacterial and virucide agents as part of the sterilization process each time I'm in or out (especially out). With extra care taken anytime I have reason to suspect anything particularly virulent may be present. Veterinary checkup upon obtaining the new animal and periodically as a precaution throughout the quarantine period.

Most people do slightly less, but a separate room would be ideal. Wash between anything you do with one or the other. Keep things like water dishes, hides or feeding tongs specific to each room. Ninety days is about the minimum that's really worthwhile to allow most possible infections to become symptomatic.
 

Chosen010

FANATiC
Messages
57
Location
Lubbock, TX
Ok, I appreciate the info. I will look at my separation options and be extremely careful about sharing anything between the two environments.

What about the behavior of my younger gecko? Is this a territorial thing or a possible sexual interest? When I came in today he was up on his hind legs pinned to the glass nearest the other cage, just looking. Since I've seen him get on top of his dry hide and the two geckos stare at each other and eventually the larger one wanders off...
 

M_surinamensis

Shillelagh Law
Messages
1,165
Could have been a few things.

You named a few yourself, territorial displays and breeding behaviors. It could also have something to do with the way reptiles are bad at understanding glass; if they can see through it they'll sometimes try to move through it- he may have wanted to simply go over to that other space, full of hides and food dishes. Might also have been a result of the proximity of the two enclosures, depending on how you arranged the heating elements there's about a fifty fifty possibility that the side closest to the new enclosure was a bit warmer than usual.

It's a bit tough to say exactly, sometimes there are some subtle body language cues that can help interpret behaviors but if you weren't seeing tail shaking or dragging behaviors, or watching them rise up as high as they each can on their legs... it may remain a mystery.
 

rickmoss95

New Member
Messages
391
Location
north east ohio
Because it's within the kind of distance that some parasites and most insects can travel and close enough that cross-contamination of bacterial and viral agents is possible.

Don't get me wrong, it's not the kind of situation where someone gets a rescue and just drops it in a tank with their existing pet that same day... it's just still a bit risky.

Quarantine protocol is something that people have some very different ideas about. Different building, different room, different wall, different rack, different tub... totally separate items used in and around the enclosures and animals, versus using the same set of tools. Which disinfection agents are used with what kind of frequency... the inclusion of things like disposable gloves into the routine. The duration is a big one.

What you ultimately decide on for your practices is your choice. Weigh the risks and the chances, consider the kinds of costs and labor involved and arrive at something that works for you... although at some point towards the minimalist end, there's no real point.

My personal approach is to treat it as strictly as is feasible for me; a duration of 180 days, in a separate room as far from other animals as possible, with its own set of tools and equipment which never leave that room, using antibacterial and virucide agents as part of the sterilization process each time I'm in or out (especially out). With extra care taken anytime I have reason to suspect anything particularly virulent may be present. Veterinary checkup upon obtaining the new animal and periodically as a precaution throughout the quarantine period.

Most people do slightly less, but a separate room would be ideal. Wash between anything you do with one or the other. Keep things like water dishes, hides or feeding tongs specific to each room. Ninety days is about the minimum that's really worthwhile to allow most possible infections to become symptomatic.

agreed 100% you CANT be too careful. especially when you get to the point when your reptile collection costs more than your car did new! saying that, in my opinion a five dollar gecko deserves the same care as a two thousand dollar gecko(or snake, or whatever). just take the extra step, and make it a habbit, you will be glad you did later.
 

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