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This is what has been working for me and my crestie, Kai. It's basically the care sheet I got from his breeder. Feel free to add, discuss, etc. I'd love to hear what everyone else is doing!
Diet
The best diet is Crested Gecko Diet (CGD), made by Repashy Superfoods. This is a powder that you mix with distilled water in approximately a 1:1 ratio. Feed this every other day. CGD contains all the nutrients your gecko needs to remain healthy. Crickets and roaches can be given to your gecko as a treat no more than once a week. These can be dusted with calcium powder, but I don't think it is necessary for them to have additional calcium. Do not feed your gecko any insect that is larger than the space between his eyes. NEVER feed your gecko baby food.
Enclosure
Adult cresties can live in a 10 gallon aquarium, but as with all animals, bigger is better. Height is more important than g round space since they like to climb. Add sticks, vines, and other plants for them to climb and hide in. I know there are many different substrates that have been used, but I've only ever used paper towels. They are cheap, easy to clean, and hard for your gecko to eat, which reduces the risk of impaction. Since cresties are nocturnal, they do not require UV light. They do require a 12 hour light/dark cycle to simulate day and night, but room lighting is usually sufficient.
Temperature and Humidity
Temperatures between 70-80F are ideal. Cresties can survive night temps in the 50s, but this shouldn't be maintained long term. Be careful if you decide to use a lamp of any kind, because temperatures above 85F can be deadly. Humidity levels should be around 40-50%. This is easily achieved by spraying the cage 1-2x a day with water. I use deionized/distilled water to reduce water spots and mineral deposits on the glass.
Handling
To avoid excessive stress on your gecko, keep handling to a minimum for the first 3-5 days after you bring him home. It's best to not handle him at all during this time so he can get settled in and get used to his new cage and the noises of his new home. After that, cresties can be handled for short periods of time (I've heard about 20 minutes). Cresties can jump without warning, so be careful when handling your gecko over hard floors. Be careful not to startle your gecko when reaching into the enclosure. NEVER grab a gecko by the tail. Crested geckos can drop their tail when threatened, and it will not regrow.
Cleaning
Spot clean daily to remove feces. Every 1-2 weeks, do a thorough cleaning of the entire cage. Make sure to use a reptile-friendly disinfectant, such as nolvasan. Volatile alcohols such as isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) might also be used (I've seen it as an ingredient in a reptile-specific disinfectant), but make sure it has completely evaporated before you put your gecko back into his cage. Dilute bleach can be used in a pinch. If you do use bleach, make sure to rinse everything VERY WELL and let it air dry before you put your gecko back in so that any residual bleach has evaporated.
Health
Crested geckos can live up to 20 years with proper care. If your gecko appears lethargic, ill, or injured, contact a vet immediately. It is a good idea to locate an exotic vet before you get your gecko, just in case.
Diet
The best diet is Crested Gecko Diet (CGD), made by Repashy Superfoods. This is a powder that you mix with distilled water in approximately a 1:1 ratio. Feed this every other day. CGD contains all the nutrients your gecko needs to remain healthy. Crickets and roaches can be given to your gecko as a treat no more than once a week. These can be dusted with calcium powder, but I don't think it is necessary for them to have additional calcium. Do not feed your gecko any insect that is larger than the space between his eyes. NEVER feed your gecko baby food.
Enclosure
Adult cresties can live in a 10 gallon aquarium, but as with all animals, bigger is better. Height is more important than g round space since they like to climb. Add sticks, vines, and other plants for them to climb and hide in. I know there are many different substrates that have been used, but I've only ever used paper towels. They are cheap, easy to clean, and hard for your gecko to eat, which reduces the risk of impaction. Since cresties are nocturnal, they do not require UV light. They do require a 12 hour light/dark cycle to simulate day and night, but room lighting is usually sufficient.
Temperature and Humidity
Temperatures between 70-80F are ideal. Cresties can survive night temps in the 50s, but this shouldn't be maintained long term. Be careful if you decide to use a lamp of any kind, because temperatures above 85F can be deadly. Humidity levels should be around 40-50%. This is easily achieved by spraying the cage 1-2x a day with water. I use deionized/distilled water to reduce water spots and mineral deposits on the glass.
Handling
To avoid excessive stress on your gecko, keep handling to a minimum for the first 3-5 days after you bring him home. It's best to not handle him at all during this time so he can get settled in and get used to his new cage and the noises of his new home. After that, cresties can be handled for short periods of time (I've heard about 20 minutes). Cresties can jump without warning, so be careful when handling your gecko over hard floors. Be careful not to startle your gecko when reaching into the enclosure. NEVER grab a gecko by the tail. Crested geckos can drop their tail when threatened, and it will not regrow.
Cleaning
Spot clean daily to remove feces. Every 1-2 weeks, do a thorough cleaning of the entire cage. Make sure to use a reptile-friendly disinfectant, such as nolvasan. Volatile alcohols such as isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) might also be used (I've seen it as an ingredient in a reptile-specific disinfectant), but make sure it has completely evaporated before you put your gecko back into his cage. Dilute bleach can be used in a pinch. If you do use bleach, make sure to rinse everything VERY WELL and let it air dry before you put your gecko back in so that any residual bleach has evaporated.
Health
Crested geckos can live up to 20 years with proper care. If your gecko appears lethargic, ill, or injured, contact a vet immediately. It is a good idea to locate an exotic vet before you get your gecko, just in case.