Cresteds

[Gary Orner]

Yeah four leggers lol.

My brother wants to get into these and I have read a bit on them. Ronnie Hampers article in Reptile Mag is great. I see the hampers all the time so I can talk to them but I want everyones opinions.

They seem pretty straight forward! Do not require to much heat if any lol. My room stays around 82.

Here is my questions

How long do you guys keep babies untill you sell them. Beardies I keep for 6 weeks atleast.

Do you pull the eggs or let the parents do their thing?

And should I buy a 1.3 or just a 1.2?

 

[Gary Orner]

ALso another question.

How do the morphs work. Are they all co doms? Rec.? What is a good starting point. I am looking to add another animal to the mix and this seems like it is a good way to go. But I ma not jumping in head first when I have some of the best gecko people right here to talk to lol. I will pick your minds first.

 

[Tylersmith]

You will want to cool the tank somehow to keep it below 80, they are comfortable around 75. Mist t-3 times daily,


If i was you i would keep babies 2-5 months, if you want to sex them keep them to five months.

And you should pull the eggs.

1.3 will bring you more babies.

 

[Gary Orner]

So maybe just set up a rack in the dining room. lol

Cool keeping the babies for 2-5 months will be easy.

What about the moprh thing. I see a lot I like. There is a green one in the classifieds here lol.

Are most Rec. Traits or are their codoms like in Ball Pythons?

I know a snake guy asking stupid questions lol

 

[Haroldo]

I agree with being able to keep Rhacodactylus cooler or not getting them at all.

I also keep back most animals until they are sexable, but unless you're good at pore-sexing, sex is not guaranteed at 5 months...in fact, some have had males drop bulges after 12 months in age. Just a cautionary...

As far as getting started with them, if you've never kept any, I'd start with one. I realize one might want to rush in with them and that they are considered "easy", but like any animal there are idiosyncracies to keeping them that can't be easily told. I'd start with one and see how you can keep that one for a bit, but that's just my opinion...Also, keeping them in groups doesn't always work and is often stressful for individuals. I personally keep 100% of my collection (120+ animals) in their own roomy vivariums, except during the breeding season to keep an eye on everybody individually...

With morphs, some are co-dom, others a dom...I'd suggest picking up the book by Repashy, Fast, and DeVosjoli on Rhacodactylus for more in-depth info...

 

[Gary Orner]

Thanks for the info!!! I think that book now will be in my collection of books

 

[Sunrise Reptile]

Thanks for the info!!! I think that book now will be in my collection of books

That book's in my collection too, and it's well worth the purchase! :main_thumbsup:

As to morphs, it's practically impossible to tell what the hatchlings will look like from the pair you mate. That being said, I'd recommend that you get 3 or 4 adults (if you chose to go this route) that you think would make good breeders with patterns you like. It is my opinion that not knowing what you'll end up with is part of the fun of breeding these. There really is a new surprise inside every egg. Good Luck!

 

[GoGo]

Cresties=Most expensive geckos in this house, not cause they cost alot in food and housing and such, but because of the stupid weather fluctuations in ny we have to leave the ac on all freakin day! The ac in my room, where the geckos are, has been on for about 2 weeks now.

 

[Gary Orner]

COol so they are the Amazon Tree boa of the gecko world!

Thanks guys. Keep the opinions coming. ANd even post some pics of your set ups. Show off what you have.

 

[Haroldo]

Do a search for cage setups on here, you'll find a few pics...

As far as crested genetics go, I'd have to respectfully disagree with that account. For example, last year I produced 100% red offspring from a gold sire and a patternless red dam. This was not luck nor happen-stance. These animals were as far unrelated as possible with ciliatus stock and still proved predictable. You know why? I selected breeding stock mostly in cases where I knew what the parents (and even grandparents) looked like. Granted crested genetics have alot of variability in gene expression, but it certainly isn't as unpredictable as some think it is. (In fact, one of the members on this board has one of those offspring and I've still got the rest of those siblings hanging around including two red harlequins, one red flame, and the rest patternless reds.) One just has to be selective about what stock one "invests" in, instead of gambling with the usually less expensive ones...

 

[Sunrise Reptile]

As far as crested genetics go, I'd have to respectfully disagree with that account.

Not a problem. Most of the online documentation reflects this aspect though. It's most likely based on accounts from when importing was moreso the norm. Today there's a lot of captive breeding going on, so I'm sure the patterns are a little more predictable.

But I believe the book you refrenced above also says what I stated. I'll have to take a closer look. Cool discussion!

 

[Gary Orner]

THanks so much guys for all this great info!!!

How long do you guys give your females off between breedings?

I am so ordering that book. lol

 

[Haroldo]

THanks so much guys for all this great info!!!

How long do you guys give your females off between breedings?

I am so ordering that book. lol

I personally only breed my females (of any species) for 6 months or so a year. That usually yields me 5-6 clutches a piece and the females get half the year off. Makes for healthier breeders in the long run imo...

 

[Haroldo]

Not a problem. Most of the online documentation reflects this aspect though. It's most likely based on accounts from when importing was moreso the norm. Today there's a lot of captive breeding going on, so I'm sure the patterns are a little more predictable.

But I believe the book you refrenced above also says what I stated. I'll have to take a closer look. Cool discussion!

1) To be honest, most of the online documents I've run across (on most species) are garbage. Those that aren't totally factually incorrect, are often written by people with little experience (though I don't claim to be an expert by any means). Other than books, you don't see the very people with the most experience, doing alot of posting on sites like these do you? If I'd have to venture a guess, I'd have to say most of that documentation is likely based on accounts from keepers that don't really know "where" there animals came from. (I certainly don't have any F1 animals, but knowing who produced who is a start...) Right you are! with the CB aspect, but patterns are certainly not only existent in line-breeding..

2) You are likely correct about the info in the Rhac book, but my breeding efforts would demonstrate otherwise. In any case, there is much to be learned about the genetic patterns of R. ciliatus...

 

[WftRight]

Here's my setup.

Here's my crestie.

In terms of breeding, I'd ask myself what I really wanted to accomplish. My crestie is a female, and I'm going to breed her someday. However, I have no visions of being a big crestie breeder. Some of my parents neighbors are interested in one, so I'll try to produce one for them. My sister used to have one, and I'll try to produce another one for her. An online friend had to liquidate his snake collection when he left to serve in Iraq, and I may try to make a couple for him. Otherwise, I'll give the extras to friends who are trying to be breeders.

If you are serious about becoming a serious breeder, you might want to pick three or four nice juveniles. The very young ones are often less expensive for a number of reasons. (One is that you won't know how nice they will be until the mature.) If you are lucky, you'll get more females than males. If not, at least you'll have a stock of males so that all of your offspring won't be from only one or two males. If you end up with too many males, you can sell or trade them later. You might also look for a tailless female. People prefer them with tails, but for breeding purposes, a female without a tail is fine.

However, I'd still start with asking yourself why you want to be a serious breeder.

I agree with the opinion that every animal should have an individual cage.

I wouldn't get too worried about the genetics, but again, that's because I'm not going to consider myself a big-time breeder. Can you answer the question of why you really want to produce a certain "morph" of crested gecko? I'd love to have a red dalmation, but I don't regret starting with my somewhat "normal" harlequin. I don't think any of them are going to fall that much into or out of favor in the trade. Even if you can consistently produce animals with a specific look, what does that really gain you? Considering that all of us have different looks that we like, producing a variety of hatchlings will be fine for you if you want to sell them.


Bill

 

[Haroldo]

I wouldn't get too worried about the genetics, but again, that's because I'm not going to consider myself a big-time breeder. Can you answer the question of why you really want to produce a certain "morph" of crested gecko? I'd love to have a red dalmation, but I don't regret starting with my somewhat "normal" harlequin. I don't think any of them are going to fall that much into or out of favor in the trade. Even if you can consistently produce animals with a specific look, what does that really gain you? Considering that all of us have different looks that we like, producing a variety of hatchlings will be fine for you if you want to sell them.


Bill

Well said!:main_thumbsup: