Gecko won't eat.

[19sandycane]

Okay so I'm new to having leos. I just got my first one a few months ago and I've been having issues with her. At first she would eat OK (maybe 3 small calcium dusted crickets every other day). But now she refuses to eat. I had taken her to the vet and they told me to raise the temps in the tank. So I did and she was doing better for a while (4-5 calcium dusted crickets a day to every other day). Then one day she suddenly stopped eating. The temps are the same (85-90 degrees F on the warm side, 80-82 degrees F on the cool side). She has paper towel substrate and was on reptile carpet before I got her. The weight is good on her belly but her tail keeps getting thinner and thinner. I tried mealworms and she showed no interest, lost interest in crickets, so finally I started feeding her wax worms and even that's near impossible. With a lot of coaxing and smearing some insides of the wax worm on her mouth for her to lick it she'll sometimes eat. I only offer her one, if it's calcium dusted she spits it out. She poops and drinks plenty of water from what I can see. She's in a 10 gallon tank with a humid hide, a hide on the middle/cool side, and a hide on the warm side plus a tiny bowl thing of purified water. I replace the paper towels daily. The food I offer her is gut loaded and live. She's still a baby so I honestly don't know what sex "she" is. I bought her from ++++++++ (did my own research obviously). She has a heating pad and heat lamps. A 40 watt day bulb and a 25 watt night bulb. I have timers so she gets 12 hours of day and 12 hours of night. The humidity percentage in her tank is usually about 20%-30%. I recently have noticed that she's been spending 90% of her time in her humid hide and that her colors are darkening. We're a little tight on money right now (only for the next month due to a few extra expenses) so cheaper options would be best.

 

[indyana]

A few suggestions for the care:
- Make sure she has a floor temperature of 88-90 F on the warm side to lay on. This is best measured with an infrared temp gun or a digitial temperature monitor with a probe cable stuck to the floor. Not certain what you're measuring your temperatures with, but the entire enclosure seems a little warm, likely due to the heat lamps? You really don't need all that heat at night unless your room gets very cool.
- Leopard geckos can't survive with only calcium. They also need D3, either from calcium+D3 or from a UVB light source. Most people also provide their gecko with a multivitamin. I use Repashy Calcium Plus, which is an all-in-one supplement designed to be used daily, and I also provide a small dish of pure calcium (no D3) for the geckos to lick. There are other methods of providing supplements as well, but what's most important is that the gecko is getting all the required vitamins and minerals.

Besides that, I can really only recommend seeing a vet for a parasite check. After poor husbandry, that's the leading cause of a gecko going off food and losing weight, especially with the fat belly and thin tail.

 

[sausage]

i agree with whats been said above.
Your gecko requires bellie heat not basking heat (heat lamps). You need to provide an under tank heater/ heat mat (UHT). as already said you do not need to have a light on at night, to much heating causes stress and weight loss. the fact that he spends a lot of time in moist hide could indicate that your viv is too hot for the little guy.
to help boost him up while hes not eating you can make a bug slurry mix, there is a recipe on here from golden gate geckos, or you can just mush up some bugs with a drop of water and vitamins/ minerals. if you drop small droplets onto its mouth, avoiding the nostrils, the gecko will lick it off. iv done this method and it works very well.