Help, I made a mistake

[Monkeys563]

I went to repticon today. I've been wanting another Leo so when I saw this cute little patternless I figured why not. I looked at him for a few min before purchasing but clearly didn't inspect it well enough. I also wasn't able to watch it walk around as I would have liked.
The seller said he was a year and a half old male but didn't say much else I was 100% aware that he had a tail kink and two of his toes are like webbed but figured it wasn't that big of a deal. So I got him home and let him settle in for a bit then saw he had been out awhile walking around but low to the ground and doesn't sit up unlike my other Leo. So I put some calcium in there hoping he will lick it maybe he's just lacking calcium but awhile later I pick him up and start checking even more throughly and notice a small white spot in his mouth it looks like a tiny version of what a white canker sore would look like on a human. If you tap his mouth a few times he will hold it open for a minute but I still can't manage to get a picture. Could it just be a small sore? Will it go away?
He hasn't shown any interest in eating yet but I figure he probably won't until he settles in a few days even though my last gecko ate right away. I was anticipating buying from a breeder would give me high chances of having a healthy gecko but now I'm not so sure and don't have money for a vet at the moment. What do I do?

Additional info
- he weighs 48g
- he is housed in a clear 15gl container with a couple hides and a 50watt red heat bulb
- the temperature is usually around 80 in my room during the day as I have several other heat lamps on and at night it's about 70-75
-he sleeps a lot and usually has his eyes closed, maybe that's normal idk my other one is always out it seems like


Any advise on how to get this little guy in better shape would be greatly appreciated

v

 

[Monkeys563]

Also sorry I didn't fill out the questionaire since he's so new I really haven't figured out very much about him I tried to include as much as I could

 

[JennyBeen]

I actually just adopted a gecko today knowing he has Metabolic Bone Disease (he has received treatment, but still has a floppy arm from when it had happened with a previous owner). Your geckos toes and symptoms sound like he may have it as well. From what others have said, they must be diagnosed by a veterinarian and receive calcium injections to halt it, but it can get deadly quickly as they can lose bone mass in their mouths that make them not able to eat (or, at least, very painful, from what I understand).

I am fortunate in that my guy is quite active and very into hunting; I hope he stays this way. He chowed down on his calcium w/vitamin D3 this evening which made me feel better, but fingers crossed he never has more than a floppy claw so long as I own him.

Good luck with your new guy. Did you get a health guarantee, or the breeder's card when you purchased? I think I'd definitely be contacting them :/. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can help as well.

 

[Dinosaur!]

If you could fill out the questionarre still, it would be very helpful. It sounds as if your setup could use a little tweaking in order to keep him 100% healthy, and I'd like to know what advice to give you I can't really see the "sore that you are talking about though.... Maybe from a different angle? And it appears that he might be albino with the way he has his eyes shut in the light. Could you take some pictures of his eyes open please? Because if he is albino, the heat lamps need to be removed ASAP to avoid eye injury and stress. (They need to be replaced anyways, but I will get to that more after you fill out the questionairre so that I know how to advise you properly)

 

[Monkeys563]

Sex: male

- Age & Weight: 1 and a half years

- How long have you owned your Leo A day or so

- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend)
Breeder, I believe citrus reptiles


A) Health/History

- How often do you handle your leo. Once settled I usually handle my geckos every other day

- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now. He seems very calm and sleepy

- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe.

B) Fecals

- Describe (look any different than normal). Don't know yet

- When was the last time he/she went. No idea

C) Problem

- Please briefly describe the problem and how long it has been going on

Mouth sore:

Eyes shut:

No food interest
Not holding self up


Housing:

A) Enclosure

- Size 15 gl I think



- Type (ex. glass tank) container

- Type of substrate
Carpet
- Hides, how many, what kind
2, one is a bit warmer
B) Heating

- Heat source. 50 watt red light


- Cage temps (hot side, cool side). Room temperature, usually 80s during the day

- Method of regulating heat source. ?

- What are you using to measure your temps. Digital. Nat geo thermometer

- Do you have any lights (describe)
In the room? Yes several they r all heat lamps
In the tank one red heat bulb that really seems to do nothing

C) Cage mates
None
- How many (males, females)

- Describe health, or previous problems



Describe Diet: Crickets and meal worms. Once he starts eating

A) Typical diet

- What you're feeding (how often, how much).
6 mw and 4-5 crickets daily
If he seems to want more I'll adjust that's how much I feed my juvi

- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect). Worms are in a dish the crickets just roam freely

B) Supplements (describe how often). Once a week

- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands)
Reptocal

- What are you gut loading food with
Crickets eat a diet of
Squash, potatoes, kitten food, collards, romaine and any other veggies we happen to have at all times. I don't know if that's really gut loading

 

[Monkeys563]

Fecals: not normal from what I see

 

[Monkeys563]

 

[Monkeys563]

Sorry I had to post so many times I'm still figuring out this app

 

[rothsauce]

The 'odd' fecals could be from stress, looks like it might be a bit dehydrated too.

Yes, this leo has some issues. It still seems like it will be a lovely pet once it settles in and gets used to its new home. The tail kink can likely be reduced with a good diet, and webbing... personally I think it give the little guy character. It's not hurting or hindering him.
The spot could be anything, or nothing. Might simply be an scab/healing injury from biting down on a prey item funny.

My first three leo's ate the very first day through tong feeding. My newest baby is eating off and on, but becoming more active now that it is settling in.
Each one is different, and needs time. Right now it kinda seems like you're over-reacting a bit.
Give it a week and see if things change positively. You could check on its mouth then and see if there has been any change with that spot, too.

 

[Monkeys563]

Alright, I will keep an eye on him and see what happens. And yeh I probably am over reacting I have really bad anxiety. Just don't want the little guy to die. Thanks for your help

 

[rothsauce]

Also have pretty bad anxiety, been fretting over the new baby since it's tail is on the thin side. Just know that fussing over it isn't going to help if it's just got the jitters from being moved.
It's annoying but best thing to do is keep an eye on things and wait to see how things play out, and interveine if things haven't improved.

The tail kink will probably take a little while though!

 

[DrCarrotTail]

Honestly he doesn't look all that terrible. Most of my geckos are pretty lazy. They hide a lot while they adjust to a new situation. Your new boy is albino. Albinos are pretty light sensititve and tend to close their eyes when they're in bright light, even just bright normal room light. Heating with an UTH is especially important for them. I'd make sure your tank has several hides where your new guy can get 100% out of the light so he can be relaxed and not in pain from the lights. Also triple check your temperatures. In my experience anything over a 40 watt bulb will heat a 10-20 gallon tank a bit too much unless the bulb is suspended above the tank a few inches.

I see what you're talking about with the mouth as well. Not sure if his lips just aren't laying right in that picture or if something is going on. If he were mine I'd coax him to open his mouth so I could check inside and see if there is any discoloration inside. If not I don't think I'd worry too much.

Not sure I would worry about a whole lot until you give him a week or two to settle in. Full grown males are notorious for hunger strikes after a move. My first guy waited about 4 weeks to eat and the one I recently got in fasted for about two. They really don't eat much in general.

 

[Monkeys563]

He seems to have a bit of am under bite. He had a little white sore on his bottom lip but now it's pink don't know if that means it's worse or better. My bulb is like 6 years old... Maybe that's why it does absolutely nothing I got a new 75 watt bulb that I'm hoping will do better, it is several inches from where he usually lays. I use a regular heating pad without a timer on it for heat.. I figured one of those stick on reptile ones might melt the plastic.
I've also heard mixed thoughts on the red bulbs. Some say they can't really see it and some say it's harmful. My other Leo doesn't have one she just has an heating mat however her cage is significantly closer to my tortoise who has a large enclosure with several 150 watt bulbs that seem to provide her some heat without the light, somehow with the shadows her tank stays fairly dark she's always out laying on too of her hides.
Just don't want him to get hurt since he's an albino. Don't albinos

 

[rothsauce]

One of my leo's will chase the light from my infrared thermometer. He loves it, and has normal eyes, so I'm not sure I'd personally get a red bulb for my leo's.

 

[DrCarrotTail]

How are you measuring your temps? What kind of thermometer are you using? You do not want the cage to be 90 degrees - you'll cook your leo slowly and cause major shedding issues (in my experience). You want the floor only to be 90 degrees under the warm hide. The air temp should be closer to 80-85 on the warm side.

 

[Monkeys563]

I use a digital thermometer shared between all my reptiles tho.. I just switch it around.
I raised the lamp pretty high so I hope that it keeps it from getting too warm, also turns out the light is purple. He has a cool hide if he gets to warm

 

[pixiepurls]

We have a blue bulb for our girl, its only 50watt and it provides a lot of heat in a 10gal tank, ups the temp easily 5 degrees in a short amount of time. 10 if I leave it on but I just put it on during the day to simulate the day heat of pakistan, and then at night f i really want to watch her the blue light doesn't bother her eyes but I can see.

 

[DrCarrotTail]

Your gecko does need a 90 degree spot on the floor of his tank. These are best provided with the use of an under tank heater and you'll need a thermometer with a probe to measure the temp accurately. Without a warm spot he may refuse to eat since he will be unable to digest his food. Adult males tend to eat very little anyhow and can go months without eating before they lose much weight.