L
lorneb
Guest
Well my leopard gecko is impacted he is showing all of the signs! but i was wondering how to stop the impaction?! i want to save the poor critter! please help!!!!
Tailless
New Member
- Messages
- 38
My Impaction Advice
Here's my advice (in five simple steps):
(1) Do you have a UTH (under-tank heater)? If not, you should get one. It is my understanding that geckos need "belly heat" for proper digestion. If you do, you should follow all of the appropriate precautions. I suggest a thermostat--these can be found at decent prices online--I got mine (actually a plant seedling thermostat) at amazon.com for under $30.
(2) Start warm water soaks of your gecko. The water should be lukewarm (not hot). In fact, I use water that just barely feels warm to the touch.
(3) Get as much liquid in your gecko as you can. This was a recommendation from my vet. Using a small syringe or eye dropper you can give you gecko water or some babyfood. The babyfood works well because you don't have to pry the gecko's mouth open--you can just put a bit on his lips and he will lick it off. Just be sure to get an all-natural babyfood--I like organic prunes! Hey, old people swear by them!
(4) Try some waxworms. (These are the yellow grubby critters.) I don't know if there's anything to this one, but my gecko always seems to use the restroom after eating them. It wouldn't surprise me if there's a connection given that waxworms look juicy and are supposed to be fatty. Just give him one or two to start. One anecdote: Jake (my gecko) hadn't gone for a week. I gave him a waxworm before bed and woke up to a lovely fecal surprise in the corner of his tank.
(5) Get your gecko to a vet--especially if the gecko stops eating. According to my vet, loss of appetite is the most obvious sign of serious trouble.
Also--at risk of raising the ire of the sand-advocates out there--I would advise you to discontinue use of any loose substrate. I use paper towels, as recommended by my vet.
Here's my advice (in five simple steps):
(1) Do you have a UTH (under-tank heater)? If not, you should get one. It is my understanding that geckos need "belly heat" for proper digestion. If you do, you should follow all of the appropriate precautions. I suggest a thermostat--these can be found at decent prices online--I got mine (actually a plant seedling thermostat) at amazon.com for under $30.
(2) Start warm water soaks of your gecko. The water should be lukewarm (not hot). In fact, I use water that just barely feels warm to the touch.
(3) Get as much liquid in your gecko as you can. This was a recommendation from my vet. Using a small syringe or eye dropper you can give you gecko water or some babyfood. The babyfood works well because you don't have to pry the gecko's mouth open--you can just put a bit on his lips and he will lick it off. Just be sure to get an all-natural babyfood--I like organic prunes! Hey, old people swear by them!
(4) Try some waxworms. (These are the yellow grubby critters.) I don't know if there's anything to this one, but my gecko always seems to use the restroom after eating them. It wouldn't surprise me if there's a connection given that waxworms look juicy and are supposed to be fatty. Just give him one or two to start. One anecdote: Jake (my gecko) hadn't gone for a week. I gave him a waxworm before bed and woke up to a lovely fecal surprise in the corner of his tank.
(5) Get your gecko to a vet--especially if the gecko stops eating. According to my vet, loss of appetite is the most obvious sign of serious trouble.
Also--at risk of raising the ire of the sand-advocates out there--I would advise you to discontinue use of any loose substrate. I use paper towels, as recommended by my vet.
Last edited:
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