Humidity & Temperature Problems

[Leoluver]

Well i was reading up on it. Humidity should be around 40% and any higher could harm him. Mine was at 60% and i got it down to 50% but it wont go any lower? I'm starting to get, worried, is there any way i can get his humidity to go lower? Also it gets cold at night so were trying to arrange a heater in the room he stays in. Because right now his cage reads only 70F which i know is HORRIBLE! But i have a UTH, but i'm having a lot of problems getting a reading for it? Should i just stick on my temp gage on the cage floor and wait for it to get the heat reading? Its a human pad, its really old so i'm worried its not supplying enough heat. If not I'm going to get him one at Petco this week. I'm just worried if this could be fatal and how to fix it?!

 

[StangWolf]

well I'm not sure what to tell you about the humidity, though those red light (the nighttime heat emitter bulbs) do sap up a TON of moisture in the air. I had issues trying to keep the humidity up in my anole's tank when I had him. The bulb would burn the humidity down to 20%. So maybe one of those would help, it'd also help keep the ambient temps up in your tank.

BUT a UTH is best, since from what I've learned about leopard geckos is that they absorb warmth through their belly, so floor temps are what you're really going to need to be warm. I'm currently working on getting my temps working right now, the floor temps are around 85 to 90 for me now. Just trying to stabilize them at this point.

What I'd suggest is getting a UTH (size will depend on the size of your tank you don't want to heat the entire bottom only about 1/2 to 1/3 or maybe even a 1/4 I've heard all of those suggested, mine cover about half of my tanks floor, but I've also got a second level, so really I'd think that means the UTH covers 1/3 of the geckos floor space)

anyway pick up a UTH, one for reptiles would probably be best, then get a digital thermometer with a probe that you can tape down to the floor of your tank, and a thermostat or rheostat to plug the UTH in would probably get most of the problem solved. Since the thermostat or rheostat will help you better adjust the temps for your gecko.

Hope that helps some, and I'm pretty new at this myself, so someone else might have some better suggestions.

 

[Leoluver]

Well i put the temp gage at the bottom and it was reading about 100F so all my worrying was over nothing lol! Figures. Of course I turned it down some. I thought it wasn't working because it didn't feel to warm. But he loves just basking in the middle of his heat hide all day. So it will be about 90F now. Its only covering about half his cage maybe less. He has a moist hide, i waited a day and it went down 10% over night. I was thinking maybe wait a little longer it should go down on its own? I hope . If not I'll rush out this week and get him something from the pet store. I really love this little guy. Even though i haven't owned him very long (got him Thursday night). But so far he seems to give me a heart attack every hour HAHA. Go figure! Thank you for you advice, and I'll look up that red light. Incase it doesn't go down tonight. He does have a UTH but its a human one. I looked it up and it says its fine. It has a controller on it lol which is awesome. Now that i put the gage on the bottom i get better readings hehe.

 

[StangWolf]

well that's good, and yes I was told that a simple human heating pad would work too, so that's good.

I guess one question though, do you have one of those little dial thermometers? I've been told time and again that a digital one is more accurate, but then if the pad has a heat control, it might be alright. I like the little digital thermometers best, I had the dials for my anole at first and they kinda sucked, but they were cheap ones so who knows.

I think the only place a gecko needs humidity is in their humid hide and as long as you keep the substrate or paper towels or whatever you have in there moist then it should be fine. The outside humidity doesn't need to be much at all I don't think. That and I'm not sure if humidity will hurt them, I'm sure like 90% isn't particularly good for them since they don't live in tropical conditions like that, but 50% might not be really bad for them. Humidity is one thing I haven't had to worry about since I've moved to leos instead of anoles now.

I'm going to get my first two geckos on Tuesday I hope, well one definitely, and I think the second as well. I've paid for them both, just haven't heard back from one breeder yet. So I've been spending a few weeks now getting things set up for my girls, just working on getting the temps just right is all now. That and trying to breed some mealworms haha

well I hope that works for you, and again perhaps someone else might be able to give you better advice, since most everyone I've seen here either breeds or has had years of experience with leos or both.

 

[Leoluver]

lol thanks. Well there dials. I paid $9.99 (on sale) for the Humidity and Theormaste (sp) pair. I couldn't find any there. Maybe they were out, they were having a big sale. I went about a week ago just to see what they had. When i went the first time they had like 3 the same color as him. When i got there he was the only Patty, the rest were all normals. I was like WOW just in time haha. Thank you for the advice, I could get more. But only to add to my supply lol. Right now i'm checking it every like 4mins. Because its "slowly" climbing down. It was on Med. which was reading 100 still so I went lower. I took the spacers out. But if need be I'll put them back up. Its not a big problem. A lot of people tell me Petco has awful Gecko's. But he seems REALLY healthy? Clear big eyes, good skin, no cuts bruises. His stool is dark brown not runny. Only thing is he's a bit thin. Due to his new home, not eating his small mealies. So i might try the homemade Gecko milkshake type food i found on here the other day lol. I need him a little plumper and he's not being a willing little sport.

A lot of people say DON'T HANDLE HIM haha. I'm like to bad, i'm going to. He did hiss at me a lot when i tried to put him in a little carrier to put him in a big shoe box to clean his little cage. But every since he will walk in my palm and just lay down. I don't pick him up but i do let him climb in my hand a lot. I think if i wait until he's out of baby stage to do this. How will he every accept me handling him? I've never hurt him, never squeezed or been firm, never dropped him nothing. So i see no actual harm in it? I hope lol.

 

[StangWolf]

Yeah, I'd say when you can afford it, perhaps one of those little digital thermometers with a probe (I have a few of the ESU Digital Thermometers myself, they weren't too expensive - one is $7.06 from reptilesupply.com) and if you'd still like to keep track of the humidity I've had good luck with the Flukers Thermo-Hygrometer (Digital Thermometer and Humidity Gauge) it was $13.12 from reptilesupply.com. So not too bad at all less than $25 for both I'd assume.

As far as him not eating, you said you got him on Thursday, I've read that they may take up to a week or so to get adjusted to their new home and during that time their appetite isn't the best, so maybe he's just trying to adjust and that's why he's not eating right now. I'd say keep an eye on him and if he's still not eating after a week or so then try the slurry (I'm assuming that's what you're talking about whem you say gecko "milkshake"). That and most of the little leos I've seen in the Petsmart Petco stores are on the thin side. I'm sure he'll be taken care of now. I don't think I have to say keep an eye on him, you sound like you're doing just that already ^^

I think I've only heard from one place not to hold them, I've seen tons of people handling their geckos, but I think it's probably best to let him get acclimated to his new home so that he's not too stressed out, and then do what you sound like you've been doing, offer him your hand and let him come to you. That and I've read that babies, or younger geckos are a little more skittish than the adults, they supposedly mellow out some once they age, especially if they're used to your presence. Once he's settled in and relaxed more, occasional handling, cleaning his cage, feeding him, and just showing him that you mean no harm, and he should get used to you after a bit. I've heard of some actually seeking out their owners say when they enter the room or even trying to climb onto a hand while they're tank is being cleaned. Now I'm not sure if that's affection, or curiosity, or because they like your warm body, but I'd like to think they get used to you enough that they like you and might even seek your company

 

[Scott&Nikki]

LeoLuver, I am STRONGLY backing up what Jessica said about getting a thermometer/thermostat with a probe that is made for measuring ground temps. The dials are made to measure ambient (air) temps, and even if placed on the surface, are only measuring the air near the surface and not the ground itself. If the dial was reading 100 when you put it on the ground, that could mean the ground is even as high as 110 considering air cools as it rises and the innacuracy of those dials.

Since you just got him Thursday, handling him is probably not the best idea, but having him just crawl on your hand inside the tank is perfect. That will not stress him out and will get him used to you.

Jessica was right about it sometimes taking weeks for your leo to start eating. However, when I first got mine, she would not eat mealworms at all, but the crickets she could not get enough of. I got then for her the second day I had her and she had about 15 within 10 minutes. But be patient, dont force him. It will take a while for him to start plumping up even once he starts eating.

About the humidity: It really isnt anything you need to worry about. A normal room in a house has pretty low humidity, and all leos need it for is shedding. Again, what Jessica said is good advice. All you need is a humid hide (just like a tupperwear container with wet paper towels) and he will use it as he needs it.

Hope that helps...

EDIT: One last thing I forgot...You mentioned how you didnt think the heat pad or something was working because it didnt feel very hot. Keep in mind that your body is about 98 degrees F. Touching a surface around 90 degrees F will not feel very warm to the touch.

 

[Leoluver]

Yeah i know haha. I'm just overly worried and its making me crazy. Right now i have it on the floor and its reading 90? So your telling me the actual surface is 100? In this case should i put the spacers back up and see what happens. I'll look around, I would prefer it if i could just pick it up at Pet Supplies Plus or Petco. If not thats fine I'll order it. I'm writing everything down LOL. So i don't forget exactly what they are. A question (Jessica). The $13 one comes with the Temp AND Humidity but you still by another Temp digital probe? Are you telling me the one it comes with is crappy? Or would it just be fine to buy the packet? Thank you!

 

[Scott&Nikki]

Melissa, If it reads 90, I'm not saying it IS 100, I'm just saying that method is not nearly as accurate as you need. I recommend the ESU 1000 or Alife 1000 thermostat (they are the same product). I have had it for a year with no problems. You can find them online for about $23 if I remember correctly.

 

[TokayKeeper]

forget on-line purchases of thermometers....

radioshack, you can get thermometers with a min and max temp reading and min/max humidity reading for less than $30 (I want to say it was $24.99). Factor in the time you wait for an on-line shipment (time=money in the real world) and it equates to about the same price, if not cheaper to just stop by radioshack for any of their digital thermometers.

It's 11:20, need to shower for work...gonna rant a little more possibly on the whole humidity, temp thing when I get off of work.

 

[liljenn]

heat control

At ReptileSupply.com, I just bought a Zoo Med ReptiTemp 500R For $20.99 (thermostat that controls 2 heating elements). A Exo Terra Ceramic heat emitter 60W for $16.49 (or you could use a red 60W heat bulb for only ~$5 and you'd need a heat dome light fixture ~ $10). A Digital Thermometer for a $7 (absolute must have!).

I paid ~$7 Priority mail S/H. I ordered it all on 1/31 and received it yesterday (2/2) Plugged it all in and my hot temps (on the floor) are 89-91 and ambient air temps on cool side are ~75 (my house is ~68). Works like a charm!

Fast, cheap, easy -- and most of all peace of mind!!

 

[StangWolf]

the one that has digital readings for humidity and temperature doesn't have a probe, so it'll only take ambient temps, and you really don't need that one if you don't want it.

The digital thermometers with the probes are best, either from someplace like radioshack or wal-mart or wherever you can find it, I just got mine from reptilesupply.com because we were getting other things from there as well ^^ that and I could NOT for the life of me find any digital thermometers with probes at our wal-mart, maybe they don't have them not sure lol

 

[TokayKeeper]

the one that has digital readings for humidity and temperature doesn't have a probe, so it'll only take ambient temps, and you really don't need that one if you don't want it.

The digital thermometers with the probes are best, either from someplace like radioshack or wal-mart or wherever you can find it, I just got mine from reptilesupply.com because we were getting other things from there as well ^^ that and I could NOT for the life of me find any digital thermometers with probes at our wal-mart, maybe they don't have them not sure lol

check down the interior section in the automotive department. Of course, IMHO, wal-mart is the anti-christ and I try to avoid it like the plague.

 

[StangWolf]

check down the interior section in the automotive department. Of course, IMHO, wal-mart is the anti-christ and I try to avoid it like the plague.

lol yeah Wal-mart is kind funky sometimes, though it is cheaper on a lot of things, plus where I live, it's pretty much just wal-mart, we don't even have any truly decent pet shops. There is a new one about thirty minutes from me but it has like NOTHING for reptiles.

I'll check next time I'm buying oil for my car ^^ thanks

 

[Ccrashca069]

At Petco or Petsmart you can pick up a basic dig temp with probe from $7-10. The humidity I would not worry too much about. My humidity stays between 50-65%. Its been like that for a year. Alot of it also depends on the weather and your humidity inside where you have the leopards. Its been raining alot where I am at so my humitity is around 65% right now. When its warmer it is closer to 45-50%.

 

[TokayKeeper]

Well i was reading up on it. Humidity should be around 40% and any higher could harm him. Mine was at 60% and i got it down to 50% but it wont go any lower? I'm starting to get, worried, is there any way i can get his humidity to go lower? Also it gets cold at night so were trying to arrange a heater in the room he stays in. Because right now his cage reads only 70F which i know is HORRIBLE! But i have a UTH, but i'm having a lot of problems getting a reading for it? Should i just stick on my temp gage on the cage floor and wait for it to get the heat reading? Its a human pad, its really old so i'm worried its not supplying enough heat. If not I'm going to get him one at Petco this week. I'm just worried if this could be fatal and how to fix it?!

A comfortable humidity for us (humans) is around 40%. A little higher for your leo isn't too terribly bad. I wouldn't worry about humidity unless you have condensation forming and running down the side of the tank.

Relative humidity is the amount of moisture in the air compared to what the air can "hold" at that temperature. When the air can't "hold" all the moisture, then it condenses as dew.

Now keep in mind these geckos come from a somewhat similar habitat to that of our US banded geckos - dry rocky terrain, where they rely on moisture blow rocks and in burrow systems. these burrow systems might be at the "outside" humidity at the mouth, but the further down you go the higher the relative humidity. An example is kind of like that of going into a cave. Carlsbad Caverns is a stable 55-56°F once you get so far into the cave, yet it's also pretty humid as well. In these desert conditions, animals, such as our leoaprd geckos, rely on this in order to start hydrated, and thus shed properly. A simple hide box will do.

As for your temps, if it's staying stable at 70°F day and night I wouldn't worry unless you're feeding the gecko. This is ESPECIALLY so if temps drop at night. Too cold of a gecko + food in gecko's belly = potential death due to food rotting from gecko not digesting. Keeping it at 70 though is a need to worry as that's warm, yet cold enough to start enducing a topor (brumation, or as some incorrectly call it for herps - hibernation). The "warm" aspect will result in the gecko utilizing fat reserves because it isn't warm enough to digest eaten food.

As mentioned, hit up radioshack, wal-mart, k-mart, whatever similar store. They should have indoor/outdoor thermometers, some with min and max reads, some not, some with hydrometers (humidity gauge) some not. In this case temp is important. Most indoor/outdoor thermos come with probes now for outdoor reading. This allows you to just stick the probe in the tank and not the whole thermometer. :main_thumbsup: These thermos can be had for $7 to $30+.

Now...this statement scares me

Its a human pad, its really old so i'm worried its not supplying enough heat. If not I'm going to get him one at Petco this week. I'm just worried if this could be fatal and how to fix it?!

YES, it can be fatal!!!!!!!!

Here's the problem. Cold tank + cold room + cold gecko + heat rock/heating pad = thermal burns. A cold gecko (any herp for the matter) in a cold tank, within a cold room will SIT on the warm area until it's properly thermoregulated. If it (animal) never reaches this point it'll just sit and sit and sit. This slowly cooks the animal internally and externally, resulting in burns and heafty vet bills or death.

You NEED to get this gecko set up properly and as soon as possible.

 

[Leoluver]

Its reading at 80F not 70F. It wont go that low lol. Even on low. Thats why i put the stands back up to raise it off the mat. It is heating up. Its a very good human pad, I've read up on using a human heat pad and it says its fine . He doesn't sit on the heated side all the time. He just hides from me all the time lol. He has been going in the hide box, climbing in the worm dish. Just about every where his little body will fit in to. Should i turn it up then? He does tend to stay on that side a lot. I can easily get the dial reading over 100F on the ground. He isn't eating, I just got him not that long ago and I believe thats the reason. If he doesn't start eating I'm going to feed him the Slurry. The room isn't cold. It stays around 70F or about 73F room temperature. I have the dial on the floor and it reads a little over 80F. So i'm "guessing" it is around 90F. Maybe a tad lower if not a tad higher. I'm going to get a Digital with Probe tomorrow. I'll check PSP, Petco, Radioshack or Wal-Mart online before going though. To see who has the best one that would work out for him. Humidity was at 60% but it went down over night its about 55% right now. Should I be turning up the heat on the pad If he stays on the one side to often?

He's also been hiding in the humid hide sometimes, could this be he's going to shed? If so i know that could also make him not hungry. Let me know and I can try to fix it. Right now work is sketchy (I train horses). So I need to able to support the wages to buy him new supplies. Theres nothing wrong with his heat pad, I know that. Just the stupid dial thingy! When i went to Petco i didn't see a digital. Believe me if it was only $7-$10 with the probe. I would of got it! . Thanks everybody for the advice.

 

[Rejoice in the Lord]

You really won't know whether his lack of appetite is due to his new home or temperature until you pick up that good thermometer, and know exactly what the temps are. I got mine from Wal Mart. It's brand name is Accurite; I think it was about $12.00, and well worth every penny!

I like to keep my warm side substrate about 90, and my cool side air about 80. So far this year, my two are keeping pretty good appetites for me. If their air temps drop below 78, I usually give them additional heat with a red bulb.

 

[Leoluver]

I got one at Walmart for $8 with probe and everything its a Accurite same are yours LOL. It seems to be doing good. I'm keeping the temps over 80 on the warm side and I'll checking the cool side shortly. Trying to balance everything out. I've read up, pretty sure its because of the new home. It says it can take up to 2 weeks before they start eating. If it does, I'm going to make him the Slurry. He's just to tiny to be missing meals like that. Thanks for everybody's help