Information on Bearded Dragons Please?

S

ST4CE

Guest
Hey :)

I am currently reading in to buying Bearded Dragon.. However I need all the information I can get about them. I already have leopard gecko's which I know so much about but i'd like to get more knowlegable about Beardies.

Is there set up anything like a Leopard Gecko's? I.e, heatmat and temperatures? what other lights do they need? Do they need the same calcium substance? and do they need constant lighting at night because id be keeping them in my bedroom, I leave my gecko's heatmat on over night but no lights.

Any information I will be greatful.

Thanks :D
 

Bellalee

New Member
Messages
1,682
Location
Around.
Check out beardeddragon.org.

Their setup is different from leopard geckos. The minimum tank size for an adult, or even a juvie beardie is 40 gallons. They do not need a heat mat. They do not need light on at night, if it get's too cold (like under 68 F) you can use a ceramic heat emmiter which does not let off any light. The light at night disturbs their sleeping and can become very cranky.

As for day time, since they are diurnal, they need a day simulated light cycle. You can leave the lights on for 12 to 14 hours, mine are on from 8 to 10:30. They need UVB lights, you can use a reptiSUN 10.0, or acardia 12% which you should be able to find over in the UK(we don't have it hear in the US). The arcadia should be a smidge better then the reptisun. With these bulbs you need the long flourescent tube not the compact one, and it should be about 3/4ths the size of your cage. For example I have a 40 gallon, and my light is 24". Your beardie should be able to get 6 to 8" from the bulb on their basking spot. With this UVB light you need a basking light that goes right next to the UVB, you can use a plain floodlight, or a regular household bulb just as long as it's a white light. The basking light should be able to raise your basking spot temp. to 105 - 110 F for a juvie, and 100-105 for an adult. You will be able to tell if your beardie likes it because they wont bask if its too hot. The ambient temp for a cool side should be 80-ish. There's also a choice of an MVB bulb which has heat AND UVB in one. This bulb should be no more than 12 inches away from your beardie at the basking spot. There are a couple of good choices for this bulb there is one a powersun which has been causing severe eye damage, stay away from that one.

As for vitamin schedules a young beardie should be getting with a UVB light calcium w/D3 dusted feeders once a day for 5 days. And a multi-vitamin on 1 feeding for 2 days. If you use an MVB bulb you don't need the calcium w/D3 apparantly the light produces it, you still need the vitamin.

Don't feed meal worms, they can't digest the certain kind of chitin in the shell. Beardies shouldn't get superworms when they are under 16 inches, because they have a kink in their intestines when they are young and they can become impacted. Dubias are good, so are crickets. They need greens, their are certain ones that are ok, there is a list, I have the address if you need it.

When they are young they need to be bathed everyday, you can do it in the tub, or a plastic container. The water should be warm and not boiling. And also, usually the warm water makes them go to the bathroom, so it's much easier to clean up, just flush it down the toilet or drain. They should be bathed for at least 15 mins, this is how they get their hydration mostly from there pores on their hind end. Sometimes you'll see them drink but not often.

Don't use sand, just like the leos this can cause impaction.

Geez... I think I wrote a book... if you need anymore help let me know, you can pm me, or ask me here. Good luck!
 
Last edited:

Srt14292

Est; 1992
Messages
1,294
Location
London, UK
I think Rachel pretty much covered it all, however I would like to add that I prefer locusts for use with my reptiles as they have a higher protein package, they don't make a noise, they get nice and big for your beardie when its older, and they don't stink!, seeing as you are in UK you will find it very easy to get a hold of them, as for the greens I choose to get a mixed salad bag from M&S or such and such.
 

SnakeKeeper

New Member
Messages
125
^^All great info. And beardeddragon.org IS an amazing site, both the care articles and the forums.

Imo, beardies really can't be compared to leos at all. They're probably 10x more maintenance and expense, and, being diurnal, their care is completely different.

As Bellalee said, the Arcadia and the ReptiSun 10.0 are great UVB bulbs, pretty much the only suitable fluorescents out there. As for MVBs, I HIGHLY recommend the MegaRay, by far the best MVB on the market.

Personally, I have a breeding colony of dubia roaches for all of my lizards. From what I've heard they're very similar to locusts, but locusts aren't readily available in the US. Dubia are SO easy to care for. I hate to say it, but I haven't touched my colony in 6 months and they're still doing spectacularly, breeding and growing like you wouldn't believe. Virtually indestructible buggers, which is a good thing when you're raising them as feeders; a VERY bad thing if any get loose in your house. ;)


Good luck with everything! Beardies are the GREATEST, I'm sure you'll have a blast! :)
 

TheWolfmanTom

New Member
Messages
157
Location
Philadelphia
I am partial to beardies as well...lol
Check out the above mentioned forums also most breeder site have care sheets specific to their operations. Mine will be a little diff then anothers, and so on and so on.
Just remember when you get your pooper "pics or it didnt happen"..lol
 

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