Is 4" heattape capable of heating a mini-drink-cooler to 88F?

[tb144050]

Ok, I got my herpstat in the mail and I have it hooked up to my hovabator...been stable at 82.5F all day.

But I am picking up a mini-drink-cooler, about 3ft tall with glass door (standard size), tomorrow and I am wondering if anyone has experience with this size cooler-converted incubator?

I am hoping I can use this 4" heattape I have laying around. If not, I may dissassembe the hovabator and use the heat element from it.

 

[tb144050]

*bump* just answered the question that had been in this section for 36hrs, unanswered, and accidentally bumped myself out of the "most recent" spot...lol sorry to be selfish...just hoping for some input on this before I do the project tomorrow.

 

[727geckokid]

Ive converted several Wine Coolers into incubators using heat tape as the heating element with no problem. I usually drill a hole small enough to get the thermostat probe and extension cord cable (with the female end cut off) thru. I then solder the heat tape and depending on the layout of the cooler mount the heat tape on the back or bottom. I would recommend a fan to help circulate the air and distribute the heat evenly. The last cooler I converted was a double door wine cooler built to control 2 different temperature zones and it had the fans already built in so I disconnected the cooler element and just used the fans. This worked perfect for me because i can one side for females and the other for males. I will try and get pictures posted to help show what i mean

 

[tb144050]

Thanks for the input. I just wasnt sure if 4" heat tape would suffice. btw, it is about a 34" piece of 4" tape.....so I will either:

a) shape it like a "U" that runs across the bottom of the floor and also evenly up the sides....water-filled tupperware sitting on the bottom (on top of the tape).

or...

b) shape it like a "C" and have it sandwiched inbetween layers of water-filled tupperware in the bottom.
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I have several 12v fans from computer towers, but that doesn't help me much...since I need 120v..lol Instead, I was already planning to investigate the idea you mentioned: Cut the power wires to the "cooling" but leave the fan(s) and interior lights functional.

Sooo....is "cutting the power to the cooling" as easy as cutting the right wire? Or am I overlooking something?

 

[DrCarrotTail]

I think the natures spirit incubator I have has about a foot of 10" heat tape in it so I would think a couple rows of 4" would do the same. The big thing with DIY incubators is air circulation. You'll need a fan or something to move the air around so the heat in your incubator is consistent. If not you'll wind up with it being really hot near the tape and not so hot away from the tape (This may work too if the temps are consistent and you want to incubate at the temperatures it is keeping or only need part of the incubator for your eggs). May take a bit f experimentation to get it right but well worth it if you do!

Good luck!

 

[tb144050]

Ok. I picked up the drink-cooler today and set up some heattape/water-tubs about 4 hours ago.

Pro's so far:
-The cooler has a locking door (to keep my 4yr old or nosy people out)
-The cooler has an "off" switch to stop refrigeration, but keep inside light)

Con's so far:
-The cooler has no visible fan or air circulation

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4 hours after initial setup, the temps are stable at 87.8F (which is just a random test-temperature I set) while using 7 randomly placed water-tubs. It fluctuates from 87.6-87.9, and I am happy with that.

I will be filling ALL unused space with watertubs in order to maintain the most stable temps possible.

If only those deli cups had eggs .... Soon...soon...lol

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[tb144050]

I now have the probe in the center of the incubator and I have been maintaining a stead temp of 82.5F for over 24hours.

However, I still need to make time to figure out how to install a 110v fan? Any suggestions? Or should I use the fan from the hovabator and wire it into the original cooler-wiring?

As of right now, I am maintaining the following steady temps:

very top: 81F

very center: 82.5F (set to thermostat)

bottom shelf over heater: 86F

I almost feel comfortable moving the thermostat probe to the top and see if I end up with steady temps (due to the temp gradient, top to bottom):

82.5F @ top for females

88F @ bottom shelf for males

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Anyone have experience with a "temp-gradient incubator?" Good idea or bad idea?

 

[tb144050]

After being away from home for 2 days, I find that the temp gradient I noticed the other day is holding steady (probably due the NUMEROUS containers of water that stabilize the temps at different heights inside the incubator) after moving the thermostat probe up 1":

very top: 82F

very center of the middle shelf, 1" above vertically centered: 82.5F (set to thermostat)

bottom shelf over heater: 88F


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I will be moving my smaller digital thermometers to the different corners to test-measure temps in the different areas, but I think I do not need to install a fan. I am pretty sure I will confirm that I can use this temp gradient to sex for Males & Females based on the heighth in the incubator (distance from heat source) using my herpstat basic thermostat to stabilize the middle temp.

 

[tb144050]

Pics from 2 days ago....

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[tb144050]

Bumped up the temps just a little too much about 24hours ago...

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Herpstat Basic Redline, set at 84.4F (a little too high, but I am lowering it to 84.0F...I will post those updated temps tomorrow after they balance out again)

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Topshelf: Females = 83.4F

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Bottom shelf: Males = 89.8F (digital)

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Notes:

1) I don't trust the accuracy of the analog thermometers (which show a little lower than the Dig-thermometer on the bottom shelf).

2) I will move the dig thermometers around to check for consistency when I find my perfect setting on the herpstat.

3) I am most concerned with getting accurate temps on the top shelf set for FEMALES....I will find it acceptable if I ultimately have to settle for "Mixed-temps" on the bottom shelf. But I am fairly convinced I have found a working design.