Since I got so many requests for how to build hatchling racks and 15/32qt racks here goes nothing.
First off I want everyone to know that my racks aren't the prettiest, but they work perfectly and are not hard to make at all. Sure I plan to get the iron on pretty stuff to make them nicer looking, but these were quick throw togethers until I build a whole new LARGER set of racks in my basement that are built prettier.
Here is a 24ct 6qt hatchling rack stacked on another(I have 3) and I also have a 12 ct 15qt(or 6 count 32qt) that is honestly too cluttered to show off. They are made the same way.
Bad lighting and cluttered small room
higher angle
To make a 24 ct 6qt sterilite rack you need one sheet of melamine from home depot and have them cut the narrow side down to 48 inches(it's 49" wide). From there you need 6 pieces that are 14 wide by 48 long. 5 of those are shelves and the top. Take the 6th piece and cut that in half into 2 pieces 24 inches long to make the sides. Now you have the material to build the rack.
To make a 12ct 15qt(or 6ct 32qt) you need one sheet of melamine too. Cut it down to 48 wide, then you need 5 pieces cut to 17.5 inches by 48. Take one of those and cut in half(24x17.5) to make the sides. I made my 15qt rack that wide so the hatchling rack can stack on top if need be. The rack is actually roughly 4 inches wider than needed for the tubs. If you don't need to stack and want a tight fitting rack go with 4 pieces 45 x 17.5 and the sides still 24x 17.5 .
For the back which is what keeps it sturdy all you need is a cheap piece of pegbourd, partical bourd or I use 1/8" ply that's 24x 48 and cut it down a bit to 22" x 48". The back isn't wide enough, but you'll see why
OK, use these directions to build the rack(also a great rack idea BTW)
http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rack.shtml
Since I use belly heat. I wire up the pieces parallel(3 pieces 44 inches long for the 15qt and 4 pieces 46" long for the 6qt) http://www.beanfarm.com/heating/Flexwatt_parallel.pdf
Now you have the rack built(no back yet and it's flimsy) and the flexwatt wired. Put your flex watt in through the back and tape it down 3-4 inches from the back or wherever you decide to put it.The jumper wires are going shelf to shelf out the back on one side. That's why the back is too narrow to allow for spacing for the wiring.
Alot of people don't want to wire the flexwatt , so read this thread
http://www.geckoforums.net/showthread.php?t=13481
My wiring is loose, so I use 14" jumper wires? on a hatchling rack and alittle longer on a 15qt rack. When ordering flexwatt prewired just let them know it's for a 6qt rack or a 15qt rack(both sterilte). They have built plenty of racks and know exactly what size jumpers you should need I would think.
Get the rack level after taping in the flexwatt with Aluminum Foil Tape and secure the back piece to sturdy it up.
run the tape full power for awhile to break it in , add a thermostat to get it to the temps you desire, add tubs and animals.
DONE:main_thumbsup:
First off I want everyone to know that my racks aren't the prettiest, but they work perfectly and are not hard to make at all. Sure I plan to get the iron on pretty stuff to make them nicer looking, but these were quick throw togethers until I build a whole new LARGER set of racks in my basement that are built prettier.
Here is a 24ct 6qt hatchling rack stacked on another(I have 3) and I also have a 12 ct 15qt(or 6 count 32qt) that is honestly too cluttered to show off. They are made the same way.
Bad lighting and cluttered small room
higher angle
To make a 24 ct 6qt sterilite rack you need one sheet of melamine from home depot and have them cut the narrow side down to 48 inches(it's 49" wide). From there you need 6 pieces that are 14 wide by 48 long. 5 of those are shelves and the top. Take the 6th piece and cut that in half into 2 pieces 24 inches long to make the sides. Now you have the material to build the rack.
To make a 12ct 15qt(or 6ct 32qt) you need one sheet of melamine too. Cut it down to 48 wide, then you need 5 pieces cut to 17.5 inches by 48. Take one of those and cut in half(24x17.5) to make the sides. I made my 15qt rack that wide so the hatchling rack can stack on top if need be. The rack is actually roughly 4 inches wider than needed for the tubs. If you don't need to stack and want a tight fitting rack go with 4 pieces 45 x 17.5 and the sides still 24x 17.5 .
For the back which is what keeps it sturdy all you need is a cheap piece of pegbourd, partical bourd or I use 1/8" ply that's 24x 48 and cut it down a bit to 22" x 48". The back isn't wide enough, but you'll see why
OK, use these directions to build the rack(also a great rack idea BTW)
http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rack.shtml
Since I use belly heat. I wire up the pieces parallel(3 pieces 44 inches long for the 15qt and 4 pieces 46" long for the 6qt) http://www.beanfarm.com/heating/Flexwatt_parallel.pdf
Now you have the rack built(no back yet and it's flimsy) and the flexwatt wired. Put your flex watt in through the back and tape it down 3-4 inches from the back or wherever you decide to put it.The jumper wires are going shelf to shelf out the back on one side. That's why the back is too narrow to allow for spacing for the wiring.
Alot of people don't want to wire the flexwatt , so read this thread
http://www.geckoforums.net/showthread.php?t=13481
My wiring is loose, so I use 14" jumper wires? on a hatchling rack and alittle longer on a 15qt rack. When ordering flexwatt prewired just let them know it's for a 6qt rack or a 15qt rack(both sterilte). They have built plenty of racks and know exactly what size jumpers you should need I would think.
Get the rack level after taping in the flexwatt with Aluminum Foil Tape and secure the back piece to sturdy it up.
run the tape full power for awhile to break it in , add a thermostat to get it to the temps you desire, add tubs and animals.
DONE:main_thumbsup:
