I have an adult male that is refusing food. Is it possible that he is refusing food because there are "ready" females and it is close to breeding season? He has eaten 4 crickets in 3 weeks... And it took him 2 weeks to have a movement.
You will have to fill out the health questionnaire. It's in the stickies under health and medications. Copy it and fill it out to give us better insight of what's going on
Before you post in the Health Section about your sick leo, please copy and paste this questionnaire into your thread filled in.
If you could please take a moment to fill out this small questionnaire, it'll help us better understand the history of your leo without being there to see him/her. This will help our members be able to help you in a much easier way.
**Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your Leopard Gecko's health.**
About your leo:
- Sex. MALE
- Age & Weight. NOT SURE EXACT AGE, WAS TOLD "ADULT", 74g
- How long have you owned your leo 3 WEEKS
- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend) PET STORE (they have a manager that is a breeder)
A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo ONCE A DAY, SOMETIMES A FEW TIMES A DAY IF HE IS UP AND ACTIVE
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now. SLEEPS ALOT OF THE DAYLIGHT HOURS, MOVES AROUND MORE IN HIS CAGE AFTER HANDLING HIM
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe. N/A
B) Fecals
- Describe (look any different than normal) ONLY HAD ONE MOVEMENT AND IT WASN'T MUCH DIFFERENT THEN THE OTHER GECKOS I HAVE EXCEPT IT WAS LARGE
- When was the last time he/she went 2/4/13
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem and how long it has been going on. HE IS REFUSING FOOD. ONLY HAD ONE MOVEMENT SINCE WE BROUGHT HIM HOME. WE LEAVE MEAL WORMS IN A BOWL IN HIS CAGE AND TOSS CRICKETS IN BUT WHEN HE DOESN'T ACKNOWLEDGE THEM WE TAKE THEM OUT
Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size. 20 GALLON TANK
- Type (ex. glass tank). GLASS
- Type of substrate. PAPER TOWELS
- Hides, how many, what kind. 3, HALF LOG, MOIST TUPPERWARE WITH PAPER TOWELS AND A TREE BRANCH WITH 3 SECTIONS.
B) Heating
- Heat source. UNDER TANK HEATER AND A RED NIGHT LIGHT 50watts AND A DAY LIGHT 50watts
- Cage temps (hot side, cool side). 82-85 hot 73-75 cool
- Method of regulating heat source
- What are you using to measure your temps. THERMOMETER ON TANK WALL
- Do you have any lights (describe). SEE HEAT SOURCE
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females). HE IS BY HIMSELF
- Describe health, or previous problems. N/A
Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet. N/A
- What you're feeding (how often, how much). ATTEMP EVERY 3 DAYS
- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect). WORMS IN A DISH LEFT AND CRICKETS IN CAGE FOR HIM TO HUNT. WE DON'T LEAVE THE CRICKETS SINCE HE ISN'T EATING THEM. WE TRIED TO HAND FEED AND HE TURNS HIS HEAD
B) Supplements (describe how often). VITAMIN/CALCIUM MIX IN A BOTTLE CAP LEFT IN THE TANK, CALCIUM DUST ON CRICKETS (BUT HE HASN'T EATEN ANY)
- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands) NOT SURE THE BRAND, I CAN LOOK WHEN IM HOME THIS AFTERNOON
- What are you gut loading food with CRICKET FOOD MIXED WITH CALCIUM (SUGGESTED FROM BREEDER AT THE PET STORE)
Lemme know if you need to change the title, I wasn't sure what to name it.
I see a few things I would make some slight changes to.
Red light can irritate a Leo, they can see it despite what people say. Blue is better, but even some go without lighting at night because blue light can still have an effect on some Leo's. I don't think this really has much to do with the not eating.
The things I think may be playing a role are mainly your temps. I would recommend getting a good infrared thermometer or temp gun that will give you accurate surface temps. Your hot spot should be around 93-95 which will aid in there digestion. If temps are low he may be having issues digesting which may make him less inclined to eat.
As far as calcium/vitamin supplement, I would 100 percent recommend Repashy calcium plus. There is no guesswork. Just dust every feeder and there is no need to leave any calcium or supplement in tank. I would be interested to know what your currently using now just to see if it is an all in one typ supplement. Let us know when you get home.
With all that said, as stated before, this could be brumation and or could just be your Leo getting used to its new environment. My female is in brumation and stopped eating for about 2 weeks but now has only come back to eating 2-3 supers every 3-4 days. Shes a very big girl though, almost too big lol I would however address all those things and see if you don't have some type of change in behavior. Being that size, they can go a decent period without food, but still attempt to feed as you have. Good luck, and if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Also, it wouldn't be bad to move posts like this into health and medications section as some will probably skip over post instead of trying to help since its in the show off your Leo's section not coming down, just letting you know so you get more answers/input
i agree with whats already been said Geckos typically don’t eat a great deal this time of year.
you don’t need the bulbs. Those thermostat things that stick on the walls are rubbish and unreliable. You need to invest in a inferred thermometer
iv got this one from ebay: Pen & Digital Infra-Red Thermometer - infared infra red | eBay
its really good. using one of these will measure the exact floor tem instead of the air temp and its much more accurate