New gecko - not eating?

[perfectsoldier23]

Hey there.
Have a health concern regarding my new female leo.
I got her delivered to me last Thursday [the 26th] and she has yet to actively eat anything. She been in a relatively secluded area and hasn't had any unnecessary stress with people around her cage.

I figured she would have a lack of appetite for the first day or two, but is it normal for it to be going on for this long?
When I purchased my male, I recall him beginning to eat no longer than 2 days after his arrival here. Course, he was not shipped to me, he was purchased locally.

She has dusted mealworms [approx. 10-12] and two live crickets in her cage right now. She's had the mealworms since her arrival and I introduced the crickets about 2 days ago to see if she preferred a little more lively of a food source. So far, no interest really whatsoever. She is in a room with my other male gecko [who is eating fine] - they both have heating lamps and actual light during daytime hours, then I turn off the light and turn off the heating lamps when it's dark. Temperature during the day is between 87-90 degrees and during the evening is approx. 80-82 degrees. She's reasonably active - hide cave during the daytime hours and then when I peek in on her in the evening, she's out and about. She has a simple cage set up and there's really no trouble in finding her food source - a simple bowl at the end of the tank. I've seen her travel to that end of the tank several times.

Is there anything else I can/should offer her?

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Just saw this in another thread I pulled up. Hope this helps anyone attempting to answer!

About your leo:
- Sex
Female
- Age & Weight
3 years, 8 months - 44g [weighed today, 09/29/13]
- How long have you owned your leo
Since Thursday, September 26th.
- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend)
Breeder [online] and shipped overnight to me from Georgia to San Diego.

A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo
Rarely and only when necessary to clean\re-arrange her cage. She's been handled twice since being here with me.
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now.
I do not know her enough to know if she's acting different than usual. She appears to be acting normal as compared to my healthy male.
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe.
None that I know of. Was sold to me as "eating well and of healthy weight"
B) Fecals
- Describe (look any different than normal)
Watery. More watery than normal but there is some solid substance as well. Dark with some white.
- When was the last time he/she went
Probably 2-3 days ago.
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem and how long it has been going on
Problem is described in the opening post.

Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size
20 gal glass terrarium
- Type of substrate
Paper towels
- Hides, how many, what kind
Two hides - one cut and opened paper towel roll [cool hide] and one bark hot hide above heating lamp
B) Heating
- Heat source
Heat lamp [75 watt]
- Cage temps (hot side, cool side)
Hot side [daytime] approx 87-90, cool side approx 85. During evening hours [heat lamps off] ambient temp approx. 80-82.
- Method of regulating heat source
Both geckos are in a "closet" [pretty large when you think of a typical sized closet] which holds in heat very well. I tested ambient temperature with heat lamps prior to placing them inside the closet. If it gets too warm, I can open the door to allow fresh/cooler air inside through the use of windows in the adjoining room. It's rare that I need to do this. I am located in San Diego so we have no humidity that ramps up the temperature and we experience reasonably cool days.
- What are you using to measure your temps
Glass thermometers attached to the glass side of tank. [No thermometer on cool side, degrees are approximated]
- Do you have any lights (describe)
Yes, one 5.5", 75 watt heating lamp with red light.
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females)
No cage mates. This leo is alone.
- Describe health, or previous problems
She is missing 4 toe nails across all toes. All have healed and show no problems to her at this time.

Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What you're feeding (how often, how much)
Mealworms are always available. I replenish them as needed [which hasn't been at all because she's not eating them]. She has approx. 10-12 mealworms right now. They are dusted with ReptiVite and Reptile Calcium. She has two live crickets, not dusted.
- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect)
Dish.
B) Supplements (describe how often)
- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands)
ReptiVite and Reptile Calcium.
- What are you gut loading food with
Not gut loading at this time.

 

[LepoInc]

First, you need an under tank heat mat. The high wattage light could be stressing her out. And they need belly eat to digest food.

Second, it could take up to three weeks for them. I had a gecko not eat for almost a month. Then I gutted a mealworm and had her smell it and she ate it. I noticed she would get really nervous around me so I took her out and held her for a good half hour to make her more comfortable with me and she went right in and ate.

I wouldn't leave the crickets in there. They will nibble and chew on your gecko

Sent via Tapatalk whilst caring for Eublepharis macularis'

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Just removed the crickets and will re-introduce them when she's eating mealworms consistently. I'll get her a UTH first thing tomorrow. Should I reduce the wattage of the red light?
What would you say is the best set up to regulate and monitor temperature? I've seen simple cages with a thermometer but threads I've pulled up on this forum state that the air temperature is not supposed to be in the 90s as that is too warm - it's the ground temperature that they need around 90. What are some tools I can use to measure the ground temp? Unfortunately, my heating lamp is not able to be regulated - has one set temp. Is there another heating lamp you recommend that I can regulate? Or should I convert to UTH completely?

First, you need an under tank heat mat. The high wattage light could be stressing her out. And they need belly eat to digest food.

Second, it could take up to three weeks for them. I had a gecko not eat for almost a month. Then I gutted a mealworm and had her smell it and she ate it. I noticed she would get really nervous around me so I took her out and held her for a good half hour to make her more comfortable with me and she went right in and ate.

I wouldn't leave the crickets in there. They will nibble and chew on your gecko

Sent via Tapatalk whilst caring for Eublepharis macularis'

 

[Ozy]

You don't need a heat lamp. I use a heat mat and the Hydrofarms thermostat on my leo's enclosure. I have the thermostat at 93.. Slate tiles with sand underneath for substrate. She is a little over a year and a half old and has never had a single issue. Sheds wonderfully, eats like a pig, poops good, very active and curious.. I have never used a heat lamp on her enclosure. Just the heat mat. Another thing, they need a humid hide. It helps keep them properly hydrated.

 

[perfectsoldier23]

I'm heading out tomorrow to get some UTH - thanks for the info! I'm hoping those will ultimately replace the heating / basking lights I have.
As far as the Hydrofarms thermostat - I've looked them up and it seems beneficial. I will need to regulate two leo's enclosures [and possibly more at some point in time] - can I hook a power strip up to that thing? Seems risky to me....or do I have to buy individual thermostats per UTH that I have active? Sounds like this thermostat will allow me to change the temperature regardless of the manufactures set temperature intended for the UTH?

 

[indyana]

What are some tools I can use to measure the ground temp?

There is a tool called a temp gun or infrared thermometer that measures surface temperature in a given spot. This is what most owners use to track ground temps. You can buy ones made specifically for reptiles or the kind designed for home use. Here's an example of one.

As for the thermostats, it is safest to have one thermostat per cage, as it will only regulate the heating devices based on the temperature where you place the temperature probe. There's always a chance the temp in the second cage could differ and get too warm/cool.

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Oh, nice! And liking that price. The few I've seen have been double that amount. I'll get that one for more accuracy.
Eliminated the tank lights entirely and bought an UTH for the 20 gal where my female is. My male has had a UTH. I tested the ground temp with a thermometer [literally an over the counter childrens thermometer so I do not know how accurate it is...] and it reads approx 95 degrees. Sounds awfully hot but my male leo appears to be extremely happy.
Making some moist hides today. They should be implimented either tonight or tomorrow.

So far no interest in food but she did take a hot lap around the "new cage" being as I had to rearrange it a little.

There is a tool called a temp gun or infrared thermometer that measures surface temperature in a given spot. This is what most owners use to track ground temps. You can buy ones made specifically for reptiles or the kind designed for home use. Here's an example of one.

As for the thermostats, it is safest to have one thermostat per cage, as it will only regulate the heating devices based on the temperature where you place the temperature probe. There's always a chance the temp in the second cage could differ and get too warm/cool.

 

[perfectsoldier23]

So, her current setup is this:
moist cave and hot hide on the hot side of the tank with the 20gal UTH. I ordered a reptile digital thermometer and am waiting for it to arrive, my over the counter thermometer reads the ground temp to be at around 95. Whether this is correct, I am not sure.
She also has a cool hide on the opposite side next to a full dish of mealworms and a full water dish.
No more top light, just the UTH.

Now that she has the option, I almost never see her on the hot side of the tank. She's always under the cool hide. Still no interest in eating nor any sign of eating.
I re-introduce crickets about every other day. Removing them after a full day when she has not eaten them. So far, no interest in crickets either.

Anything else I can do?

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Just e-mailed the breeder I purchased her from and let him know the scoop. Described my setup and asked if there was anything I was doing that differed from what he was doing before she was shipped to me.
I'll wait to hear back from him and asking his opinion on taking her to a vet. I'm considering calling the local reptile vet anyway to get their opinion anyway. I've just heard varying opinions on what "severe disinterest in eating" entails. She's only been "without food" for about a week and a half but I do want to catch this asap if there is an underlying problem.

Yeah, I think I'm going to call the vet anyway. Even if they say to wait a little longer before bringing her in to give her a chance. At least then I'll know.

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Got her to eat this morning after I severely mutilated a mealworm and tong fed it to her.
I've noticed my male is pretty inaccurate when he strikes at his food but she seems a bit worse. I read that the albino strains can be sensitive to light so I think I will keep the room dim / dark from now on.

Got a response from the breeder and he only fed her crickets. She's never seen a mealworm before in her life. Any idea how I can make mealworms a staple in her diet? I don't mind feeding her crickets but I can't keep multitudes of them for her because they will die before she eats them. Mealworms I can at least chill in the fridge. Breeder also mentioned how she was regularly in a smaller cage so I moved her to the 5gal [still has everything available to her as she did in the 20gal - hide caves, UTH, etc].

Despite offering her crickets, she hasn't eaten any of those yet. Is there a supplement I can add to make the food more enticing?

Called the vet [which I came to find out is a hospital and not a clinic...higher rates, yay!] and she OF COURSE recommended that I bring her in. I gathered some information about the reptile doctors there and will use them if need be. After seeing her eat this morning it did make me feel better and she hasn't dropped any weight yet.

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Hey guys. Just wanted to post a final update to this thread in case of anyone watching who is having the same or a similar issue.
My female shed about 3 nights ago and she just ate about 5 mealies during the course of the night last night. Seems as though she was a little stressed due to the transport last month and it took her a week or two to settle in. My having her in a tank that was very large to her [compared to where she came from] also did not help her anxiety. After moving her to the new, smaller tank [5gal], she shed out using the moist cave provided. Then, a few days thereafter, decided she was hungry enough to eat the mealies.

I think I was looking at my male [a rapidly growing 8 month old] and saw him scarfing down 10 mealies a night...then looked at her and saw she rarely ate and thought something was wrong. Well, she's 4 years old and the copious amounts of research told me that as your gecko matures and gets older, their food intake isn't as excessive as a maturing babies.

So, overall, she's eating her mealies [still no real interest in crickets but...one step at a time!], shed beautifully and appears far more comfortable at her new home.