NEW NEED HELP!!!

[paulmaggsy]

Hi Guys

I have various animals including spider, terrapins, rats, Frogs and anoles.

I have just bought a leopard gecko about 3 days ago. Since i have had him he has not seemed to eat at all. I have left wax worms, crickets and hoppers in there with it.

It has a heat mat and the day temp it around 85-90 Degrees.

Has wood chip substrate (nothing it can digest) and a sun glow bulb just to give some more heat in the day. I also have a exo terra night bulb (Blue) to give night temps and moon light.

He looks a little skinny and his tail is not fat or anything. But he does look really healthy other than that. Clean mouth, big bright eyes and bright cleam pattern. I looked up mouth rot and checked in his mouth. The roof of it is slightly dark but it just looks like the colour of his skin. No pus or lumps or black lumps or inflamed lips.

I have a video and he is at the start. Could some people take a look and see if you think he is healthy to you guys. Id really appreciate your help on this.

Watch in full screen HD to get close up of his face.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V437fGwEBVU

Many thanks.

Here is also a picture

 

[Pinky81]

Hello and welcome! Could you please fill out this questionaire below to better help the folks on here help you with your Leo!


About your leo:
- Sex
- Age & Weight
- How long have you owned your leo
- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend)

A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now.
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe.
B) Fecals
- Describe (look any different than normal)
- When was the last time he/she went
C) Problem
- Please briefly descrive the problem and how long it has been going on

Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size
- Type (ex. glass tank)
- Type of substrate
- Hides, how many, what kind
B) Heating
- Heat source
- Cage temps (hot side, cool side)
- Method of regulating heat source
- What are you using to measure your temps
- Do you have any lights (describe)
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females)
- Describe health, or previous problems

Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What you're feeding (how often, how much)
- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect)
B) Supplements (describe how often)
- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands)
- What are you gut loading food with

 

[fuzzylogix]

i see a couple of issues here and the first is the substrate. i recommend paper towels or tiles only. the picture you have showing your gecko is on a loose substrate that he can indeed ingest. second, try bumping the temps up to closer to 95 degrees on the surface of the substrate on the hot end. and third, if you just got this leo its probably not eating due to stress.

 

[Dog Shrink]

i see a couple of issues here and the first is the substrate. i recommend paper towels or tiles only. the picture you have showing your gecko is on a loose substrate that he can indeed ingest. second, try bumping the temps up to closer to 95 degrees on the surface of the substrate on the hot end. and third, if you just got this leo its probably not eating due to stress.

+1... change substrait, raise temps, stress... also leos don't need UV lighting it is too brigt and only serves to stress them further. The use of any lighting should be for your viewing pleasure, or the leo is in a dark room. Either of those can be addressed with the use of a simple 15 watt incandescent bulb in a dome fixture. If your leo is in a room with a window and naturallighting that is how the day/night cycle should be set. Your leo doesn't see the blue bulb as moonlight, in fact I doubt he sees it at all. If you need to use a heat lamp to make up for temperature shortages your uth isn't making then you could use a low wattage 25-50 watt (depending on the size of your viv this wall vary) moonlight blue (as the infrared bugs my leo so I won't suggest it to others) or a ceramic heat emitter to raise the overall ambient temp of your tank. Hoenstly tho you should most likely just upgrade to a larger uth that takes up about 1/3rd of your tank floor.

As far as feeding goes, leaving crickets in teh tank that he doesn't eat can stress him out as they will nibble on your leo esp. if you haven't left an alternative food source in teh viv for the crickets. Take out any crickets he doesn't eat with in an hour of offering them. Leaving wax worms in the tank is also not suggested. Wax worms are like gecko crack. Once addicted to wax worms is it very hard to get your leo onto another food item and waxies aren't a good staple diet for leos. Those are best left as an occasional treat a couple times a month. My leo won't eat out of a dish. It's not stimulating enough for him. It's the movement of the prey item that triggers the hunt/kill response. I feed my leo 1-3 superworms 3x a week and he does great with it. I just drop them in his viv near hm and he strikes as soon as he notices them. Hand/tong feeding doesn't take much time and it is an excellent way to bond with your leo. From looking at your video your leo looks big/old enough to be able to handle super worms. Just keep in mind he can eat anything that's girth is lesser around than the space between your leos eyes.

Please fill out the care questionaire (already posted by Pinky) so the membership can see if there are any other issues that need to be addressed that could be causing your leo undue stress (aside of the new to the house and settling in stuff).