new to forum! parasite/medicine advice

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xxkaylaamariee

Guest
Hey everyone :)
This is my first time posting on here. Didn’t even think these forums existed but I’m in desperate need of advice!
My leopard gecko Bella is about 6 months old, and about 2 months ago she stopped eating completely. She is in the cage with another gecko (male) of the same age, and they have been together since day one. Anyways, she stopped eating so I took her to the vet and they force fed her and put her on a medication. Soon after, she started eating some but not a lot. She is extremely thin, almost skin and bones, and the tail is almost nonexistent. She’s still pretty active some days, not as lethargic as one would think. About 3 weeks ago I noticed that Bella was not digesting food. Her mealworms would come out as mealworms, only dead. Ive tried giving crickets, but they don’t appeal to her either. She would not even digest her shed skin. I brought her to the vet once again with a stool sample, and he confirmed that she has amoebas. He gave me 2 medications.. one to give every 48 hours, which I believe is the antibiotic?.. and one every 72 hours.. which I think is a calcium supplement. I have been feeding her the medications through a syringe provided by the vet. The first 3 or so treatments, Bella would voluntarily open her mouth when I put small pressure on her bottom jaw, but now she knows what the medication is and refuses to open up. I’ve tried doing the tip of the nose thing, but she just wipes it off on my hand or on the bottom of the cage instead of licking it like a good girl. Now she is not eating at all, most likely from the stress of me trying to force feed the meds, and I am extremely worried about her. I have tried an appetite stimulant also, but like I said, she just wipes it off or won’t open her mouth. I don’t know what to do, and the vet cannot fit me in until Tuesday. Does anyone know of a better way to get the meds in? Maybe with a narrower tip of some sort? Im worried she’s going to die on me before Tuesday. Of course the other gecko is as fat as anything and loving life. It’s not fair for poor Bella : (

Also, what wattage should I be using in a 20 gallon tank? Ive heard differently from many sites.

Here are some tank specifications, in order to avoid the questions:
20 gallon tank, 2 geckos
100 watt heat lamp (do I need a fluorescent? If so, what wattage?)
Temp is about 90 during the day and 70 at night
Fed mealworms every day.. only the other gecko eats them. Was feeding gut-loaded and dusted small crickets.
Small rock water dish, also spray the tank twice a day.
Green carpet as floor – have heard that they do not digest sand or mulch so I switched to that after awhile (yes, Bella has been checked for sand impaction, since that was what I first thought was going on with her appetite)

Thanks again! Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Riyo

Pet Human
Messages
820
Location
Indianapolis, IN
I would definitely separate the two geckos and try to bump your heat up to 95 - 97F. I use under tank heaters so I do not know what to tell you as far as wattage for a lamp.

Not sure what to offer with the medication issue, but I'm sure others can help here.

Good luck
 
2

2bacop

Guest
seperate for sure. Change the bulb to a UTH to get the temps up and make sure you are measuring the floor temp and not the air temp.

as for the sickness I can't give you any adivse on that cause I just dont know
 

Golden Gate Geckos

Mean Old Gecko Lady
Messages
12,730
Location
SF Bay Area
I agree. The geckos should be separated, anad their heat source should be an under-tank heater (UTH) so the surface temperature of the warm spot is around 88-96. If you can get their environmental needs met, hopefully they will thrive better.

Since we are not vets, we really cannot give veterinary advise or diagnose problems with your gecko(s).
 

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