Hey guys! Its been a while You may recall me having issues with Amelia not eating the past due to her Enigma Syndrome, and now she's back at it again, only much, much worse. She acts hungry but refuses food, and even just a small amount of excitement or stimulation sets her off into circling and stargazing, and she won't stop all night when she starts. She hasn't eaten in like a month. Not even waxworms get her interest. She would at least eat waxworms the last time she went on a foodstrike... So heres the low-down:
About your leo:
- Sex: Female
- Age & Weight: 2 years, 70g (usually weighs closer to 90g). She's still round in the gut, but her tail has thinned considerably.
- How long have you owned your leo purchased as hatch
- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend): Breeder: TMF Reptiles
A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo: Only when I have to, for a few seconds. She's never liked it, and I chalk that up to her ES
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now: Refuses to eat for the last month, won't even eat waxworms. Any activity outside the tank makes her circle and stargaze, and she will not stop until the whole room has no activity in it. She does still drink water from her wet hide, so I add vitamin enhanced water conditioner to it. She did just shed a few nights ago, and ate that, though. She also seems extra sensitive to the room lighting, which hasn't ever changed. She is usually very friendly, and eats vigorously, hitting hard and fast.
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe: Food strikes are not uncommon for her, but she would still eat waxworms when offered them in the past.
B) Fecals
- Describe (look any different than normal): Normal
- When was the last time he/she went: A few weeks ago, not long after after the food-strike started.
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem and how long it has been going on: See above
Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size: 10 gallon
- Type (ex. glass tank): Aquarium
- Type of substrate: Paper towels
- Hides, how many, what kind: 1x dry, 1x humid
B) Heating
- Heat source: Small ZooMed heating pad, 75 watt Flukers purple heat lamp, set at an angle over the tank-- not directly over the tank. I usually use a 50 watt, but they stopped selling them here. I'm currently looking for a replacement, and picked up the Flukers lamp from Walmart as a temporary solution. She does much better with some overhead heat in addition to a heating pad. Probably because my aquariums make the room humid, and the lamp dries out the air in her tank. I use the same method for my other two gecko tanks.
- Cage temps (hot side, cool side): Unsure, but will get a reading this weekend. Tank set-up has been unchanged since I moved her to this tank last year. Temp as never been a problem.
- Method of regulating heat source: None
- What are you using to measure your temps: NA
- Do you have any lights (describe): Flukers 75 watt purple night heat lamp
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females): None
- Describe health, or previous problems: NA
Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What you're feeding (how often, how much): Meal worms are the staple, with crickets, waxworms, superworms and discoids as a treat about once a month each. I let her eat as much as she'll take during the warmer months, feeding every 1-2 days.
- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect): Combination of hand feeding and hunting. Sometimes she can hunt, but usually does best if I just hold the prey item in place in front of her.
B) Supplements (describe how often): Normally every few feedings, but since she's been off food, I've been using it every feeding in hope to at least get something in her.
- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands): Repashy Leopard Gecko Plus, and ZooMed ReptiSafe water conditioner
- What are you gut loading food with: Spring mix (with spinach removed when its included), romaine, and various squashes. Mealies and supers are housed on oatmeal.
I'm thinking it may be time to try the baby food thing (what kind? Just chicken?). She still drinks water, so I think I can get her to eat some baby food off her nose. If that works, I'll move on to something else (what? Bug slurry?). She's still active, but its a stressed sort of active, and she always looks to high strung and stressed, as of late. If I don't get her eating soon, I don't know what I'll do... Anyone have ideas?
About your leo:
- Sex: Female
- Age & Weight: 2 years, 70g (usually weighs closer to 90g). She's still round in the gut, but her tail has thinned considerably.
- How long have you owned your leo purchased as hatch
- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend): Breeder: TMF Reptiles
A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo: Only when I have to, for a few seconds. She's never liked it, and I chalk that up to her ES
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now: Refuses to eat for the last month, won't even eat waxworms. Any activity outside the tank makes her circle and stargaze, and she will not stop until the whole room has no activity in it. She does still drink water from her wet hide, so I add vitamin enhanced water conditioner to it. She did just shed a few nights ago, and ate that, though. She also seems extra sensitive to the room lighting, which hasn't ever changed. She is usually very friendly, and eats vigorously, hitting hard and fast.
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe: Food strikes are not uncommon for her, but she would still eat waxworms when offered them in the past.
B) Fecals
- Describe (look any different than normal): Normal
- When was the last time he/she went: A few weeks ago, not long after after the food-strike started.
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem and how long it has been going on: See above
Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size: 10 gallon
- Type (ex. glass tank): Aquarium
- Type of substrate: Paper towels
- Hides, how many, what kind: 1x dry, 1x humid
B) Heating
- Heat source: Small ZooMed heating pad, 75 watt Flukers purple heat lamp, set at an angle over the tank-- not directly over the tank. I usually use a 50 watt, but they stopped selling them here. I'm currently looking for a replacement, and picked up the Flukers lamp from Walmart as a temporary solution. She does much better with some overhead heat in addition to a heating pad. Probably because my aquariums make the room humid, and the lamp dries out the air in her tank. I use the same method for my other two gecko tanks.
- Cage temps (hot side, cool side): Unsure, but will get a reading this weekend. Tank set-up has been unchanged since I moved her to this tank last year. Temp as never been a problem.
- Method of regulating heat source: None
- What are you using to measure your temps: NA
- Do you have any lights (describe): Flukers 75 watt purple night heat lamp
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females): None
- Describe health, or previous problems: NA
Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What you're feeding (how often, how much): Meal worms are the staple, with crickets, waxworms, superworms and discoids as a treat about once a month each. I let her eat as much as she'll take during the warmer months, feeding every 1-2 days.
- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect): Combination of hand feeding and hunting. Sometimes she can hunt, but usually does best if I just hold the prey item in place in front of her.
B) Supplements (describe how often): Normally every few feedings, but since she's been off food, I've been using it every feeding in hope to at least get something in her.
- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands): Repashy Leopard Gecko Plus, and ZooMed ReptiSafe water conditioner
- What are you gut loading food with: Spring mix (with spinach removed when its included), romaine, and various squashes. Mealies and supers are housed on oatmeal.
I'm thinking it may be time to try the baby food thing (what kind? Just chicken?). She still drinks water, so I think I can get her to eat some baby food off her nose. If that works, I'll move on to something else (what? Bug slurry?). She's still active, but its a stressed sort of active, and she always looks to high strung and stressed, as of late. If I don't get her eating soon, I don't know what I'll do... Anyone have ideas?