Questions on handling!

JSchira13

New Member
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10
Hello! :) I just adopted my first leopard gecko, Mikey, on Sunday evening! Everything seems okay, still working with the temp to make sure he is happy and stays healthy! I was wondering when I should try handling him. I would love for him to eventually be comfortable with me and maybe if I'm lucky even crawl into my hand. How, and when should I start handling him? Some people I have talked to said to just wait for him to come to my hand and some have said just pick him up gently (even if he starts to run) and let him calm down.. Help?? I just dont want him to be too scared or stressed!:main_huh:
 

SC Geckos

New Member
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854
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here
Let him get use to his new home for about a week before attempting to handle him (IMO)
This is what I would recommend for a new leo owner: As far as handling, I would suggest to start by putting your hand in the enclosure and let him get use to your hand being near him. (move slow quick movements can spook him) After a few times of doing this he may come up to investigate. Once he seems use to your hand being close to him you can try to gently pick him up or just let him walk onto your hand. Keep your hand in the enclosure and let him walk around with no restraint. After he get use to this you can move to taking him out of the enclosure. Just keep him low to the ground especially if he is young because they can be calm on second and bolt the next and you don't want him to jump off your hand and get hurt. Good luck.
 

SC Geckos

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854
Location
here
Humidity is not too important as long as you provide a humid hide (hide box with moist moss, coco fiber, or paper towels) then that is just fine.

Since you are new to leopard geckos.... How is he set up? What are you using for substrate, what kind of heat source are you using, and what are your temps (warm side and cool side)? Just want to help make sure you keep a happy, healthy gecko.
 

JSchira13

New Member
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10
He has a 20 gallon tank and it is deeper than it is long. The substrate I am using is a lizard carpet. I have a light that has a night heat light and a daytime light and the temp is generally 80 throughout, one side is a bit cooler. I am going to go out and get an extra light tomorrow so that I can make the tempertaure a bit warmer on one side. He does have a little wooden arch to go under with some moist moss for coolness and humidity. Other than that he has a little water dish and an extra branch to hide behind! Does that kind of set up sound okay? The one thing I think needs a little more adjusting is the heat!
 

ian_bean

New Member
Messages
23
Location
ohio
NO LIGHTS lol use a uth(under tank heater) it will be much better for your leo since they need belly heat NOT heat from above...other thann that your set up sounds ok
 

ian_bean

New Member
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23
Location
ohio
and your hot side could be a bit warmer around 90-95 then cool side should be around 80-85 during the day and as low as 75 at night but i wouldnt go much lower....anyone else please correct me if im wrong :)
 

JSchira13

New Member
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10
Thanks everyone so much! I will go out and get a heat pad for sure now! :) Another question, he is new and all and still getting used to his home.. he eats normal and has been drinking his water at night when he wakes up but when he sleeps he always goes to one corner and stays there and only adjusts himself in that one corner all day long (until he wakes up at night around 11 or midnight). Is that normal?
 

SC Geckos

New Member
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854
Location
here
I woud start by recommending an under tank heater for your heat source that covers about 1/3 of the floor of the tank. A thermostat to control the temp of the UTH. The warm side of the tank should be between 88 - 93 and the cool side can be 75 - 80ish (these temps should be measured on the floor of the tank and not the ambient air temp) Make sure you have a digital thermometer with a probe or a temp gun to properly read the floor temp. It is very important to have the floor of the warm side in that 88-93 range to help him digest his food properly. They require surface/belly heat which is easier to get with the UTH versus using lights.
For the humid hide a would recommend getting a small plastic tub w/lid and using that with moist moss or paper towels inside. It will make the air in the tub humid and keep it for a longer time. With just the damp moss and nothing to hold in the humidity, its a moist place but not humid. This will help alot with shedding. Last, Im not a fan of bright daytime lights for leos but if you are going to use one I would only use it for viewing and not a heat source. Also make sure the gecko has plenty of dark places to go inside and hide from the light. They do not require a light unless you are using it as a source of heat.
I would also suggest looking at the top of this page and reading some of the care sheets. This will give you alot more info as well on proper care.
 

JSchira13

New Member
Messages
10
Okay and it is alright that hes there all day? Im sure once I get the heating pad he will strat moving around to his favorite temperature, so I'll have to wait and see :) Thanks again for all the help
 

gogeckos

New Member
Messages
30
Okay and it is alright that hes there all day? Im sure once I get the heating pad he will strat moving around to his favorite temperature, so I'll have to wait and see :) Thanks again for all the help

Yes. Once you get the heat pad, he will be much more active.
 

Ozy

New Member
Messages
732
Location
Kansas City, Missouri
Be sure to gutload and dust the feeder insects. I gutload crickets and mealworms with Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet and the Fluker's gel water things. Dust every insect you feed him with Repashy Superfoods Calcium Plus for Leopard Geckos and you'll be good to go. I just sprinkle some on the mealworms when they are in the food dish.
 

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