Regurgitating/no poop

[artnic93]

So earlier today I heard what sounded like Theo squeaking and when I looked at where he was I saw he had regurgitated a waxworm and a mealworm, they were kind of stuck together. He also later regurgitated another wax worm.
Also I just realized he hasnt pooped in a few days, but has shown interest in food. I fed him so meal worms and wax worms last night and he gobbled them up quicker than usual. Is it possible that he ate too quickly or that the worms were too big?
He has been sleeping alot on the cool side of his tank, but when I take him out he's very active and alert.

 

[prettyinpink]

Could you fill this out so we can help you better
http://geckoforums.net/showthread.php?t=70912

 

[artnic93]

ALSO, i moved last week from one household to the other. They are two COMPELTELY different atmospheres (one being not air condiotioned often and alot of noise/activity and the other being air conditioned all the time and fairly quiet) and could this possibly have stressed him out some?

 

[artnic93]

Sure ill fill that out right now!

 

[artnic93]

About your leo:
- Sex: Male
- Age & Weight: A little over a year old. No clue on weight, but he appears healthy. (fat tail, chubby thighs, decent sized belly)
- How long have you owned your leo: A little over a year.
- Where was he/she obtained (ex. Pet store, breeder, wild caught, friend): A local pet store.

A) Health/History
- How often do you handle your leo: Everyother day.
- Is your leo acting any different today? If so how does he/she normally act which differs from now.: Not particularly, sleeping a little more than usual.
- Has he/she had any problems in the past, if so please describe.: He prolapsed twice when he was really little but has not since.
B) Fecals
- Describe (look any different than normal): Last time he pooped it looked normal.
- When was the last time he/she went: Sometime last week.
C) Problem
- Please briefly describe the problem and how long it has been going on

Housing:
A) Enclosure
- Size: 10 gallon
- Type (ex. glass tank): glass tank
- Type of substrate: Paper Towels
- Hides, how many, what kind: 2. On cold side a half log and on the warm side a piece of fake drift wood.
B) Heating
- Heat source: UTH and a lamp (one for day(blue) and one for night(red))
- Cage temps (hot side, cool side): No idea.
- Method of regulating heat source: ?
- What are you using to measure your temps: None
- Do you have any lights (describe): A daylight UVB bulb. 65 watts.
C) Cage mates
- How many (males, females): No tank mates.
- Describe health, or previous problems

Describe Diet:
A) Typical diet
- What you're feeding (how often, how much): Mealworms and waxworms. Every other day with the meal worms. and every other other day I throw in a wax worm or two.
- How are you feeding (hand fed, left in dish, ect): Left in dish.
B) Supplements (describe how often): Calcium powder.
- What vitamin/minerals are you using (list brands): Rep-Cal Phosphorous-Free Calcium with Vitamin D.
- What are you gut loading food with: Wheat based cereals, fruits/vegetables.


I apologize for not having read the sticky on this thread and not filled this out immediately.

 

[fl_orchidslave]

You need to be able to measure the warm side temp. A digital probe thermometer is only around $10 at the pet shop, place the probe directly over the UTH for the best reading. I suggest turning off the lights, they could be contributing to his stress level. Lastly, waxworms are not a nutritious food source, it's like gecko twinkies. Offer nutritious feeders, less quantity than usual until he is able to tolerate his normal amount.

Moving is stressful for people and pets

 

[artnic93]

Ok, but what about at night, when the air conditioner kicks on and it gets cooler, would it get too cool in his tank? And he has poor eye sight and doesnt hunt crickets well at all, what other than standard meal worms would you suggest?
Thank you for the advice!

 

[Pinky81]

+1 Laney

You could try adding in superworms, very nutritious! I agree with the lights they need to go off. And how do you know if the hot spot gets too cold at night if you aren't measuring temps. Get the thermo probe and get accurate temps, if at night the temps drop then leave the infared bulb on on the warm side for a little ambient temp. It maybe that your hot hide is too hot which is causing your Leo to not want to lay on it, which would lead to digestion issues. If you find that your UTH is putting out too much heat, you need to get some type of thermostat. The simpliest is a ZooMed Rheostat, or even a lamp dimmer cord from Home Depot, or you can spend a little more money and get one that can better regulate your temps like a Newtek Thermostat. Either way in a 10gallon tank temp regulation is very important as it doesn't give your Leo a huge space for temperature regulation.

 

[prettyinpink]

Supers are great like the others suggested, or mealies.

They don't need a uvb bulb (although there is some disagreement with others), and no lights are needed... just your light in your room (or wherever she is kept) and the UTH.

There's a good probe you can pick up at Wal-Mart if the petstores are not close. It could either be too hot or too cold for you. Fixing this should help her.

 

[artnic93]

Well tonight I wont be turning on the Infrared because it seems to be good enough in here (80-85 degrees). And it seems like the general consensus is I need something to measure tank temps, so Ill be sure to do that and let you all know!

 

[prettyinpink]

Thought I'd pass these along to you

Here's some caresheets that some of GF's members have put together
http://geckoforums.net/articles.php?c=115

 

[artnic93]

+1 Erica.

Thank you! I feel so silly having had a leo for a year and missing such key things.
But goodness today I had the lamps off, except for a period of about 30 minutes in which he basked in it and he has been running around so much more than when I had them on!