Release of Bearded Dragon Care Sheet

[thekooliest]

Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
Grade all organization, grammar, and incorrect information included in here.
I thank you for your time and replies.
My list for upcoming care sheets is:

• Thick-Tailed Gecko
• Mealworms
• Dubia Roaches
• African Fat Tail
• Any requests!!! :main_thumbsup:

Till then, Sam

 

[Lena]

(meaning they come out at day, like humans)
Maybe change it to "Meaning they are awake during the day" or "Come out during the day". The wording is a little awkward.

that were originally found in the rocky and arid areas of Australia.
They're still there.

They may live up to 10 years if properly cared for,
They can actually live to be 15, even 20.

As far as housing:
They need either - 1 UVB source and 1 heat source OR a mercury vapor bulb (made especially for reptiles) which provides both.
They need a basking spot of 110 to 115 degrees F and the opposite side of the tank should go as low as 80-85. Make sure you mention to place the heat source at one far end to create a "tempurature gradient".
No water bowl is necessary but they should be given a biweekly bath. They get most of their water from swimming and absorbing it through their vent.
If I were you I would strongly reccomend against partical substrate at any age. Beardies are VERY licky and clumsy eaters and will definately end up consuming some. Impaction IS deadly! You might want to mention that tile is a good, more realistic alternative. They live on very compact ground and rocks in the wild.

Food:
Carrots should be a treat and a treat only. Squash is an awesome staple to add to greens and very nutritious.
Great food reference: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html
As for insects - The ultimate staples (most nutritious) are roaches and silkworms.

Diseases:
You might want to do a little research on parasites and talk about them. Even with the best care your beardies can get them. My poor girl is just now getting over them.
Keep up the good work.

 

[thekooliest]

Thank you, I will change most of that!
-Sam

 

[Lena]

Oh - And I wouldn't recommend UTHs, day or night, unless it goes below 60 at night. It can burn their bellies if it gets too hot.

The reason for this is that beardies have an internal thermometer that reads heat from above but not below. Some people call it a 'third eye' and it's right between their eyes on the top of their head. So heat coming from underneath won't be noticed so they won't move if it gets too hot.

Here's a picture to help you visualize it:

 

[breanna-banana13]

corrections

- you spelled reference wrong in the link under the feeding headline
- you spelled terrestrial wrong under the housing headline (i think you mean territorial anyway )
- i don't know if its just my particular dragon, but whenever he eats mealies they come out practically whole in his poo, i wouldnt reccommend them.
-you could also include the use of (high quality) commercial pellets for feeding. i know personally it is a little difficult to keep a whole bunch of veggies fresh for long enough to use them (1 dragon). we use the pellets along with insects and fresh veggies
- at the very end it says "just remember it could save your gecko's life!"
(and i thought we were talking about beardies )
Looks great though!! hope i wasn't too critical

PS, i agree with the no uth thing from above

 

[Pepper]

Is it hot enough in his tank to digest them? My leo eats mealies and they don't come out whole and he's just a baby O_O

You may want to suggest reptile carpet as a substrate, with basking rocks and large cork wood so they can get pretty close to the heat source if they want too.

Maybe someone can give you a pic of their set up and you can use that to show people.

 

[thekooliest]

Thank you so much!
And no, Breanna, the more criticism the merrier in my opinion. Just makes my website better, and more reliable

 

[thekooliest]

Maybe someone can give you a pic of their set up and you can use that to show people.

A picture setup would be great!

 

[breanna-banana13]

Is it hot enough in his tank to digest them? My leo eats mealies and they don't come out whole and he's just a baby O_O
QUOTE]

he eats everything else- supers, crickets even pinkies. i dunno maybe they just don't agree with him, seriously though he chewed them up and thats as digested as they got:main_huh:

 

[Hacksaw]

i would change the minimum tank size to a 36" x 18" x 18", they can reach 18"+, and 12" width seems a little small, overall its a good care sheet and once you tweek the few things that others suggested it should be great!

 

[Lena]

you could also include the use of (high quality) commercial pellets for feeding. i know personally it is a little difficult to keep a whole bunch of veggies fresh for long enough to use them (1 dragon). we use the pellets along with insects and fresh veggies

I second this. I offer "Reptile Life" adult bearded dragon formula along with veggies and insects, just to give her options. Especially because I leave so early in the morning, the greens I put in there often dry out before I'm home to change them out.

 

[breanna-banana13]

I second this. I offer "Reptile Life" adult bearded dragon formula along with veggies and insects, just to give her options. Especially because I leave so early in the morning, the greens I put in there often dry out before I'm home to change them out.

I think ours is rep-cal. i honestly dont know :main_huh:. it comes in a clear jar and they are green red and some yellow pellets, we add water to make them softer and give some extra moisture for him. i call it his cereal lol

 

[Sturt]

In my opinion, an adult beardie should have at least 8 square feet of floorspace, more if possible. Mines in a 4' x 2' x 2' and I sometimes think he needs more. They have so much energy and need space to run when you cant get them out.

*looks at bearded dragon asleep, not moving a muscle* :main_rolleyes:

Its a good sheet though :main_thumbsup: