Replacement Lids 20L & 10G

[EmanResu]

Like many of you I'm sure, I use 20L and 10G aquariums for display terrariums. So I'm sure many of you have tried to find a cheaper alternative to the screen lids from the pet shop, or a replacement for busted screens.

For my 20L, which originally had the sliding, flimsy screen lid...I think these tanks are made by Zilla...I wanted to replace the crap screen with something more durable and something that looked better. The screen on mine had a rip in it and was sagging, and it was driving me nuts! The 10G had no lid, but I figured if I was making one for the 20L then I'd go ahead and do another smaller one

I started with a 2'X4' piece of 1/8" thick pegboard from Home Depot. I would have gone slightly thicker but this was all they had. They cut it for me...to the wrong dimensions (not blaming them...just as likely a measurement issue on my end)...so then I came home and recut it
I then took standard cheapo Flat/Satin Black spray paint and took to the pegboard. It's white on one side, and brown on the other so you don't HAVE to paint it...but that was my preference. Here are the pics of the cut and painted peg board. (No pics of me cutting, I didn't have a camera man)

20L:

10G:

Then I wanted some kind of knob on these to easily lift off the 10G and slide out of the 20L...so I picked up 2 knobs and went to install them.
I figured out that they are made to be installed on drawers that are about 1/2" thick, so they didn't work out that great. But I made some spacers out of ink pen tubing as shown in the next few pics. I am sure you can buy these, but this was cheap and quick, and saved me another trip to town...

Measure and mark how much you need:

Cut piece:

Knob with screw and spacer:

As you can see, I left 1/8" of space on the screw because that was the thickness of the peg board.

Knobs installed:

Finished 20L:

Finished 10G:

Notice on the 20L I have the knob in the back. The track for the original screen is about 1/4" thick. The peg board I used is only 1/8" thick so I have the knob in the back to lift it up a bit and actually sit in the track in the back too.

(This will not work if you are using a heat lamp unless you cut out some kind of hole for it)
(I am intentionally leaving out some measurements because they will be unique to your case. Not all tank lips are the same, even if made by the same company. )
(It is also very important to give your paint lots of time to dry. These have now dried for about a day and a half, and are no longer giving off any fumes.)

Let me know whatcha think!

Thanks,
Josh

 

[Dog Shrink]

Looks real nice Josh. Only thing I might have done differently is shorter screws for the knobs rather than a spacer, paint the outside edge on the pegbard so that it isn't natural brown wood looking, and if you do need to cut a hole for heat lamps you can simply router it with a dremmel router tool and then use some wire mesh stapled (or even thumb tacked) to the inside of the lid (so you don't see the ugly rough edges of the mesh or the staples) so that you have a secure open area for your heat lamps. Be sure tho to make the hole you router for the heat lamps about an inch and a half larger than the diameter of the lamp fixture itself. I like how you inlaid the lid on the 10 gallon, and it's pretty cool the peg board fit into the track on the 20. Something else you could consider for the 20 since the track is 1/4 inch is cutting some slats to double up the edge width on the sliding lid where it goes into the tracks (maybe a 3 inch wide piece trimmed to encase the 3 sides that go into the track), and also make sure you seal the peg board at sme point in this adventure with a GOOD primer as it is particle board and moisture will make it seperate and distort over time. Also make sure you use at least 5 coats of paint on the outside after you prime it if you're not going to use an exterior sealer as well. Looks good :main_thumbsup:

 

[liljenn]

Cool! Great idea!

 

[Dog Shrink]

Which one ?? woops that wasn't for me

 

[EmanResu]

Looks real nice Josh. Only thing I might have done differently is shorter screws for the knobs rather than a spacer, paint the outside edge on the pegbard so that it isn't natural brown wood looking, and if you do need to cut a hole for heat lamps you can simply router it with a dremmel router tool and then use some wire mesh stapled (or even thumb tacked) to the inside of the lid (so you don't see the ugly rough edges of the mesh or the staples) so that you have a secure open area for your heat lamps. Be sure tho to make the hole you router for the heat lamps about an inch and a half larger than the diameter of the lamp fixture itself. I like how you inlaid the lid on the 10 gallon, and it's pretty cool the peg board fit into the track on the 20. Something else you could consider for the 20 since the track is 1/4 inch is cutting some slats to double up the edge width on the sliding lid where it goes into the tracks (maybe a 3 inch wide piece trimmed to encase the 3 sides that go into the track), and also make sure you seal the peg board at sme point in this adventure with a GOOD primer as it is particle board and moisture will make it seperate and distort over time. Also make sure you use at least 5 coats of paint on the outside after you prime it if you're not going to use an exterior sealer as well. Looks good :main_thumbsup:

Right...I know how to router, and I know that it can be adapted to fit a heat lamp, but because they are not the recommended heat source for Geckos, I thought it best not to go into detail on how to modify my DIY to fit one.

And I have worked with peg board quite a bit before...if it's so humid that it is going to separate, then you're Gecko's are living in a much much too humid environment.
I may get the shorter screws, but I live about 15 miles from the closest town, so it's not a big priority for me at this moment.

Cool! Great idea!

Thanks Jenn

 

[Dog Shrink]

Yeah I understand that. I was just making the suggestion for some of us that DO have to suppliment with heat lamps is all.