thoughts on exterra 18x18x18

M

mushraeddur

Guest
I am new to this pet and have been reading through the forums a lot lately trying to prepare myself properly. I have learned a lot already, but I know I have much more to learn. Anyways, I will be getting a leo for my 9 year old son (from Sanata). I know I'll be helping with care quite a bit since temperature and such is so important to their health.

We have a limited amount of space to place a tank. He has a small table that will hold this 18x18x18 tank perfectly. The table and room aren't really suited for the longer 20 gallon tank (and I don't want the much smaller 10 gallon tank). I also thought the front doors would be a plus for my son and I to clean the tank when needed.

From what I've ready this should be a good amount of space overall for 1 leo (which is all we plan to have).

Some questions I have regarding the tank:

1. What are your thoughts on the tank? (I know it's pricey, but the size is perfect for the table and room in which it will be residing).

2. Should I get UTH for the tank? If so, what size is ideal for this size tank so that I will have a cool side available for the leo? I already bought a deep dome heat lamp, a 100w red heat bulb, and a stand to hang the lamp that is adjustable. (The room does stay a little cool...we keep our thermostat for the house set at 68 and I suspect the room temp may be a degree or 2 cooler).

3. What substrate should I get? I already know not to get sand. A friend recommended some type of crushed almond shell, but I don't know anything about it. I want it to be safe for the leo, and easy to care for and to train my son with a fair amount of ease. I know some folks just use paper towels...I'm not opposed to this I guess, though it seems it would take away from the decor of the habitat. Do you place small pieces where they go to the bathroom so they're easily changed regularly? I'm trying to make cleaning not too burdensome...especially since I want my son to learn the responsibility of taking care of the little guy/gal.

4. The tank has a light hood that I have two UVA/UVB bulbls for (a 10.0 and a 2.0) which the salesman recommended. I have read that this lighting isn't necessary for leos because they are nocturnal, but I've also read that it can still help with their health. What are your thoughts about this? I'm ok with not using the light hood at all if it's better or if using it would make no difference.

5. I know I need to get another hide (moist). I like the rock/natural looking ones...any advice on what kind? One with hole on top? on side? what's a good (or the best) material to use in the moist hide? And do you lift the hide and spray it daily/every other day? (Does this bother the leo much?)

6. I'm also curious, when you do a complete tank clean up...what do you do with your leo? Have a small tank/container to keep him in while you clean? And what is safe to use for cleaning the tank?

7. If you have any other advice or info...I'm all ears.


Thanks a bunch for a noob soon to be leo owner.

Travis
 

adam&nikki

New Member
Messages
416
hello yes use a uth i also have that same tank that i had leos in b4 if you want a hide that is cheap and is alright to use the coconut one for hermit crabs work very well i have used them in the past for substrate you can use a bunch of things paper towel tiles slate rock every one has their own opinion on what to use the uvb is not useful for them and they will do great without one yes they are nocturnal but every once and awhile they will roam in the day time for cleaning the tank you can place them in a diffrent container and clean the tank with a bleach solution ( some one on here might know it off hand i cant thou) you do reilize that a leo can live 20 plus years right and the oldest was 24 years 2 months and 4 days old and died from egg bounding she had to be feed by tweezers is this some thing your son is going to do ? as for temps they can handle temps down to 26.5 celcius if i can make a really good suggestion is pick up the book eyelash geckos its a very helpful book that is full of useful info about leos and many other different geckos
 

sammer021486

New Member
Messages
544
Location
Northern Ontario Canada
Some questions I have regarding the tank:

1. What are your thoughts on the tank? (I know it's pricey, but the size is perfect for the table and room in which it will be residing).

That size of tank would be fine for a single leo. A leo can be housed in a 10 gallon just fine and there is 124 sq in more in your tank.

2. Should I get UTH for the tank? If so, what size is ideal for this size tank so that I will have a cool side available for the leo? I already bought a deep dome heat lamp, a 100w red heat bulb, and a stand to hang the lamp that is adjustable. (The room does stay a little cool...we keep our thermostat for the house set at 68 and I suspect the room temp may be a degree or 2 cooler)

While not necessary it is the most recommended type of heating for a leo. As long as the proper temperature is reached then you can get by without it. What you will need to do though is place some sort of absorbent material, like slate tile, that will allow the leo to receive heat to its belly of around 95F. I would recommend returning the heat lamp and using an UTH instead, unless you require the additional heat provided by the heat lamp. What I would recommend is using the lamp as the main source of heat and have the UTH provide the rest of the heat.


3. What substrate should I get? I already know not to get sand. A friend recommended some type of crushed almond shell, but I don't know anything about it. I want it to be safe for the leo, and easy to care for and to train my son with a fair amount of ease. I know some folks just use paper towels...I'm not opposed to this I guess, though it seems it would take away from the decor of the habitat. Do you place small pieces where they go to the bathroom so they're easily changed regularly? I'm trying to make cleaning not too burdensome...especially since I want my son to learn the responsibility of taking care of the little guy/gal.
Stay away from crushed walnut, it is sharp to the touch and because it is very course it is very easy for it to cause impaction or rip the internal organs. Paper towel, shelf liner paper, meat packaging paper, indoor/outdoor carpet that is not looped, slate or ceramic tile. They all allow for easy clean up. I do not think that reptile carpet is made to fit the exo-terra tank.

4. The tank has a light hood that I have two UVA/UVB bulbls for (a 10.0 and a 2.0) which the salesman recommended. I have read that this lighting isn't necessary for leos because they are nocturnal, but I've also read that it can still help with their health. What are your thoughts about this? I'm ok with not using the light hood at all if it's better or if using it would make no difference.
You do not need the lights, but 1-2 hours of exposure will not hurt, I do not think. You could always switch the lights out for moon bulbs for night time viewing.

5. I know I need to get another hide (moist). I like the rock/natural looking ones...any advice on what kind? One with hole on top? on side? what's a good (or the best) material to use in the moist hide? And do you lift the hide and spray it daily/every other day? (Does this bother the leo much?)
Any type of hide will work, it is really up to your choice in what you use. Sphagnum moss or eco-earth/coconut fibre or wet paper towel all work for a medium in a moist hide. It should be damp but not soaking wet, misting it all depends on how much the medium dries out.

6. I'm also curious, when you do a complete tank clean up...what do you do with your leo? Have a small tank/container to keep him in while you clean? And what is safe to use for cleaning the tank?
I do a once a month full tank clean out with a vinegar solution.

7. If you have any other advice or info...I'm all ears.
You will want to get a thermostat to control the temperatures, if you find that they are getting too high. Some people will use a smaller heating device to provide the required heat and do not need a thermostat then. Be aware that a light bulb on a thermostat will cause the bulb to blow out very quickly, if you require the lamp to run cooler, then a rheostat/dimmer will be needed.

I would say to stay away from any type of loose substrate, it could cause impaction, but I find it is more difficult to keep clean.

Try to find a breeder to purchase your gecko from, you will get a healthier gecko and help your experience with your first gecko easier. I might of missed it if you stated that you already have purchased your gecko.

Thanks a bunch for a noob soon to be leo owner.
We've all been there, and it is always good to do your research first.

I had done my reach, but still made mistakes, because of the sells pitch of the pet store employee, stick to your guns and do what you have learned on these forums.
 
M

mushraeddur

Guest
hello yes use a uth i also have that same tank that i had leos in b4 if you want a hide that is cheap and is alright to use the coconut one for hermit crabs work very well i have used them in the past for substrate you can use a bunch of things paper towel tiles slate rock every one has their own opinion on what to use the uvb is not useful for them and they will do great without one yes they are nocturnal but every once and awhile they will roam in the day time for cleaning the tank you can place them in a diffrent container and clean the tank with a bleach solution ( some one on here might know it off hand i cant thou) you do reilize that a leo can live 20 plus years right and the oldest was 24 years 2 months and 4 days old and died from egg bounding she had to be feed by tweezers is this some thing your son is going to do ? as for temps they can handle temps down to 26.5 celcius if i can make a really good suggestion is pick up the book eyelash geckos its a very helpful book that is full of useful info about leos and many other different geckos

Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

So you are saying I shouldn't even use the light hood at all then? I'm ok with that and I can take the light bulbs back and save a little money.

I'm aware they can live for quite a long time. I know that if he loses interest in the little guy/gal, that really it will be my pet...and I'm okay with that too. :) I say it will be his because he asked for it...but I know it will be mine just as much.
 
M

mushraeddur

Guest
[/QUOTE] While not necessary it is the most recommended type of heating for a leo. As long as the proper temperature is reached then you can get by without it. What you will need to do though is place some sort of absorbent material, like slate tile, that will allow the leo to receive heat to its belly of around 95F. I would recommend returning the heat lamp and using an UTH instead, unless you require the additional heat provided by the heat lamp. What I would recommend is using the lamp as the main source of heat and have the UTH provide the rest of the heat.[/QUOTE]

Any suggestion on the size UTH for an 18x18 tank? Do the UTH have controls for adjusting the temp they run at?

I got the lamp because I know my house is usually pretty cool (below 70 f) so I was thinking I'd want the lamp to keep the air temp in an acceptable range, but I don't know what the UTH or light's actual capabilities are.



[/QUOTE]Stay away from crushed walnut, it is sharp to the touch and because it is very course it is very easy for it to cause impaction or rip the internal organs. Paper towel, shelf liner paper, meat packaging paper, indoor/outdoor carpet that is not looped, slate or ceramic tile. They all allow for easy clean up. I do not think that reptile carpet is made to fit the exo-terra tank.[/QUOTE]

I will probably start off with paper towels then...I may eventually get tiles. Would you put something under the tiles for stability and such?


[/QUOTE]You do not need the lights, but 1-2 hours of exposure will not hurt, I do not think. You could always switch the lights out for moon bulbs for night time viewing.[/QUOTE]

I'm not familiar with moon bulbs. I'm assuming they are a bluish light that the leo can't see, but we can?


[/QUOTE]Any type of hide will work, it is really up to your choice in what you use. Sphagnum moss or eco-earth/coconut fibre or wet paper towel all work for a medium in a moist hide. It should be damp but not soaking wet, misting it all depends on how much the medium dries out.[/QUOTE]

I'll have to explore what seems to work best with this. How often is the medium required to be replaced?


[/QUOTE]I do a once a month full tank clean out with a vinegar solution.[/QUOTE]

Sounds easy enough


[/QUOTE]You will want to get a thermostat to control the temperatures, if you find that they are getting too high. Some people will use a smaller heating device to provide the required heat and do not need a thermostat then. Be aware that a light bulb on a thermostat will cause the bulb to blow out very quickly, if you require the lamp to run cooler, then a rheostat/dimmer will be needed.[/QUOTE]

The light stand adjust up/down and left/right...so I was thinking I could raise or lower the light and find a good position for maintaining proper temperature....is that how it could/would work?

I do plan to get a UTH...will it have a control, or will I need to purchase a thermostat for it?

[/QUOTE]I would say to stay away from any type of loose substrate, it could cause impaction, but I find it is more difficult to keep clean.[/QUOTE]

I'm assuming paper towels would be spread out on the bottom of the tank, but how often should I remove them and replace them?

[/QUOTE]Try to find a breeder to purchase your gecko from, you will get a healthier gecko and help your experience with your first gecko easier. I might of missed it if you stated that you already have purchased your gecko.[/QUOTE]

I'll try to google a local breeder...hopefully something will turn up.


Thanks, so much for your thoughts and advice.



Edit: LOL...I have no idea how you multi quote boxes...I tried copying the [/QUOTE] sign...apparently that didn't work.
 

LizMarie

New Member
Messages
2,002
Location
NYC
1. What are your thoughts on the tank? (I know it's pricey, but the size is perfect for the table and room in which it will be residing).
-It's enough space for one leo but personally I'd just purchase a a 10-15gallon tank and find the room for it because Exo Terras are really expensive and I feel as if the height goes to waste when housing a leopard gecko.[/QUOTE]

2. Should I get UTH for the tank? If so, what size is ideal for this size tank so that I will have a cool side available for the leo? I already bought a deep dome heat lamp, a 100w red heat bulb, and a stand to hang the lamp that is adjustable. (The room does stay a little cool...we keep our thermostat for the house set at 68 and I suspect the room temp may be a degree or 2 cooler).
-I personally prefer UTH's because they're mainly set it and forget it when hooked up to a thermostat as long as your environment allows the UTH to reach the proper heat. I've used lamps in the past and have found them really annoying, you have to purchase the fixture and for some reason my bulbs always ran out so that was even more $$$. I also had to play with the height just get it right and that still wouldn't work sometimes. I would advise you to use a UTH see how warm it gets in your house and if it doesn't fit the range that appropriate for the warm side get a smaller wattage bulb to bring up the heat.

3. What substrate should I get? I already know not to get sand. A friend recommended some type of crushed almond shell, but I don't know anything about it. I want it to be safe for the leo, and easy to care for and to train my son with a fair amount of ease. I know some folks just use paper towels...I'm not opposed to this I guess, though it seems it would take away from the decor of the habitat. Do you place small pieces where they go to the bathroom so they're easily changed regularly? I'm trying to make cleaning not too burdensome...especially since I want my son to learn the responsibility of taking care of the little guy/gal.
-I wouldn't use anything loose for the entire tank because it just makes me feel icky, lol. Each time I think of loose substrate in a tank I imagine the gecko kicking up the poop and bacteria spreading all over the place (Yes I'm a clean freak) but that's just the way my mind works. Something easy to clean would be slate/ceramic tile, you can you can get one that looks like natural rock. You can also use reptile carpet, non adhesive shelf liner, paper towels and kraft paper just to name a few.

4. The tank has a light hood that I have two UVA/UVB bulbls for (a 10.0 and a 2.0) which the salesman recommended. I have read that this lighting isn't necessary for leos because they are nocturnal, but I've also read that it can still help with their health. What are your thoughts about this? I'm ok with not using the light hood at all if it's better or if using it would make no difference.
-I never used UVA/UVB on any of my geckos and I've heard mixed reviews. Some say they use those lights with out any issues while I've read articles of other people claiming that their animals became very lethargic after using them. I'd personally take them back and get your money back and get a nice hide or just pocket the cash, lol.

5. I know I need to get another hide (moist). I like the rock/natural looking ones...any advice on what kind? One with hole on top? on side? what's a good (or the best) material to use in the moist hide? And do you lift the hide and spray it daily/every other day? (Does this bother the leo much?)
-Their is a very popular store bought hide that people use as a humid hide but I can't remember the name or the brand to save my life at the moment. I personally take a tupperware container, get some mod podge sprinkle some sand on it, let it dry then seal and ta-da I have a natural looking hide within a day or two. For substrate you can use Coconut Fiber, Paper Towels, Spagum Moss, etc. whatever you prefer. I use Coconut Fiber and mist it every 2 days or so and like I said since I'm a clean freak and germaphobe I change it out weekly. I've heard of others leaving it in there for a month or so.

6. I'm also curious, when you do a complete tank clean up...what do you do with your leo? Have a small tank/container to keep him in while you clean? And what is safe to use for cleaning the tank?
-I've found that it depends on the gecko. I have a female Leopard Gecko that is pretty clean so I spot clean daily (take out the poop), change the water every other day, replace the paper towels and coconut fiber weekly. While I clean the tank out and give it a REALLY good scrub everyone or two months. Of course if the tank is looking yucky before that or there was a huge spill of coconut fiber or something I'll clean it when necessary. While my rescued AFT's are cleaned out (complete scrub down) weekly because I'm working on making them healthy again and don't want anything in their environment to delay that process plus the male is a complete PIG and their coconut fiber all over the place!

I personally have a little critter keeper I put my geckos in when cleaning and I use diluted Chlorohexdine but I used to use a bleach/water solution but was becoming too paranoid (yes I'm mental, lol) that the bleach would stay in the tank and the fumes would kill my leo.

7. If you have any other advice or info...I'm all ears.
- Have fun and enjoy because geckos are great little pets. I would also advise getting one from a breeder as opposed to a Pet store because pet stores don't have the best reputation when it comes to animals but if you must try to pick out the BEST looking gecko and read the guarantee/warranty closely. Also as a parent you should already know that even though you want to teach your son responsibility and it is going to be his pet at the end of the day it is your responsibility because your the adult and geckos are also long lived animals that he might out grow in the future so just be prepaid for anything. Not saying this is going to be you but I've seen too many people get pets for their young "kids" and when the kids have moved on to girlfriends and boyfriends, sports, parties, etc. they tend to forget about their pets at home while the family neglects them because it was suppose to be the childs responsibility and in turn the once beloved pet is cast aside and forced to surfer neglect.
 

sammer021486

New Member
Messages
544
Location
Northern Ontario Canada
Any suggestion on the size UTH for an 18x18 tank? Do the UTH have controls for adjusting the temp they run at?

a 5-10 or 20-30 gallon heat mat from Zoo Med or an 8"x8" exo-terra is what I would recommend. You could also get flexwatt heat tape, which is much less expensive than an mat, but you will either have to wire it yourself or have the place of purchase wire it, if they provide that service. The general rule that some people follow is that the heat mat should be 1/3-1/2 the floor space of the tank. Ultra therm and T-Rex both make mats that are long and narrow, which could be a benefit to your tank.

I got the lamp because I know my house is usually pretty cool (below 70 f) so I was thinking I'd want the lamp to keep the air temp in an acceptable range, but I don't know what the UTH or light's actual capabilities are.

I can not say about the lamps, but I do know that my 8"x8" desert exo-terras easily hit over 115F unregulated.


I will probably start off with paper towels then...I may eventually get tiles. Would you put something under the tiles for stability and such?
You can use fine grain children's playsand, or any fine grain sand as long as it is not the calcium sand.

I'm not familiar with moon bulbs. I'm assuming they are a bluish light that the leo can't see, but we can?
Moon bulbs are just blue coloured (<< that is not wrong I am just Canadian :p ) light bulbs marketed by reptile supply companies, some state that they mimic the moon and have actual moon dust in them.

I'll have to explore what seems to work best with this. How often is the medium required to be replaced?
That is again sort of a personal preference. I would say every 2 weeks though to a month, no longer than that.

The light stand adjust up/down and left/right...so I was thinking I could raise or lower the light and find a good position for maintaining proper temperature....is that how it could/would work?
That will work, but may not be accurate enough.

I do plan to get a UTH...will it have a control, or will I need to purchase a thermostat for it?
I do not know of any companies that have temperature controls in their UTH. Depending on what you would like to spend on a thermostat and what you can afford will determine what type you get. I successfully have used the Zoo Med 500R thermostat with no problems, but had to upgrade to Rancos, because of limitations with the 500R. Rancos/johnsons are a great on/off thermostat and show the current temperature that the probe senses. The most expensive of the thermostats are the Helix or Herpstat proportional thermostats. These thermostats control the heat source by adjusting the flow of electricity to the source, yet never shutting it off.

Prices
  • Zoo Med 500R ~$35
  • Ranco unwired ~$50, Johnson unwired ~$60, both wired ~$79
  • Helix ~$135
  • Herpstat basic unit ~$110

If choosing between the Helix or Herpstat I would prefer the Herpstat due to reviews on the quality of the unit, the bonus is its lower price too.


Edit: LOL...I have no idea how you multi quote boxes...I tried copying the [/ quote] sign...apparently that didn't work.


To add a quote the leading tag is [*quote] minus the star that I placed inside the bracket to prevent the quote tag from working and the trailing tag is [/quote]
 
M

mushraeddur

Guest
You will want to get a thermostat to control the temperatures, if you find that they are getting too high. Some people will use a smaller heating device to provide the required heat and do not need a thermostat then. Be aware that a light bulb on a thermostat will cause the bulb to blow out very quickly, if you require the lamp to run cooler, then a rheostat/dimmer will be needed.

I am going to try just the UTH, but if I find that I still need a little extra heat...will the rheostat/dimmer increase the life of the bulb rather than a standard thermostat....or does rheostat/dimmer refer to the type of bulb I will need to use with a thermostat? Sorry for questions that may seem silly to most, but I'm pretty clueless to these products and such.



Try to find a breeder to purchase your gecko from, you will get a healthier gecko and help your experience with your first gecko easier. I might of missed it if you stated that you already have purchased your gecko.

I want to do this, but I can't seem to find any. I googled with no luck. I'm hoping to get some local breeder information at the convention I'm going to on Sunday, but I don't know if anyone there is going to be local or out of towners. Any advice on finding local breeders?


a 5-10 or 20-30 gallon heat mat from Zoo Med or an 8"x8" exo-terra is what I would recommend. You could also get flexwatt heat tape, which is much less expensive than an mat, but you will either have to wire it yourself or have the place of purchase wire it, if they provide that service. The general rule that some people follow is that the heat mat should be 1/3-1/2 the floor space of the tank. Ultra therm and T-Rex both make mats that are long and narrow, which could be a benefit to your tank.

Ultra therm and T-rex online only? or can they be purchased at most pet store chains?


I can not say about the lamps, but I do know that my 8"x8" desert exo-terras easily hit over 115F unregulated.

It sounds like I may only need a UTH then.


Moon bulbs are just blue coloured (<< that is not wrong I am just Canadian :p ) light bulbs marketed by reptile supply companies, some state that they mimic the moon and have actual moon dust in them.

I may just take the uva/b bulbs back and get these since the uva/b bulbs aren't really necessary.


I do not know of any companies that have temperature controls in their UTH. Depending on what you would like to spend on a thermostat and what you can afford will determine what type you get. I successfully have used the Zoo Med 500R thermostat with no problems, but had to upgrade to Rancos, because of limitations with the 500R. Rancos/johnsons are a great on/off thermostat and show the current temperature that the probe senses. The most expensive of the thermostats are the Helix or Herpstat proportional thermostats. These thermostats control the heat source by adjusting the flow of electricity to the source, yet never shutting it off.


If that's the case, then I'll try the UTH by itself and get a thermostat as you suggest. I presume an advantage to the proportional thermostats is that it ensures the a fairly constant/consistent temperature for the leo while the others will fluctuate a little more sense it turns off and back on?

Any idea on how long I should expect the tank to heat up to it's appropriate temperature?

The tank came with a thermometer and a hydrometer...should I get any others/more. How do you monitor the warm side and cold side? ground temp? etc.


Prices
  • Zoo Med 500R ~$35
  • Ranco unwired ~$50, Johnson unwired ~$60, both wired ~$79
  • Helix ~$135
  • Herpstat basic unit ~$110

I'm going to a lizard convention in town (purely coincidental and luck that it happens to be this weekend when I'm now shopping for this stuff) that I happened to see advertised on a digital board just yesterday. I'm there will be some knowledgeable people there and some good products I can purchase.




To add a quote the leading tag is [*quote] minus the star that I placed inside the bracket to prevent the quote tag from working and the trailing tag is

Thanks...trying it right now with your post. :)
 

sammer021486

New Member
Messages
544
Location
Northern Ontario Canada
I am going to try just the UTH, but if I find that I still need a little extra heat...will the rheostat/dimmer increase the life of the bulb rather than a standard thermostat....or does rheostat/dimmer refer to the type of bulb I will need to use with a thermostat? Sorry for questions that may seem silly to most, but I'm pretty clueless to these products and such.

What happens with a light bulb on a thermostat, is each time the light comes on, a surge of current goes through the bulb's element, shortening the life of the bulb. That is why many bulbs actually burn out just after you flick the switch. So having a light bulb on a thermostat will drastically shorten the life of the bulb, and most likely burn the bulb in a day.

If you do require the bulb then a proportional thermostat can reduce the blown bulb because the thermostat tries to prevent an on/off cycle. Or you use the bulb as the main heat source and have the UTH hooked to the thermostat to supplement the bulb.

I want to do this, but I can't seem to find any. I googled with no luck. I'm hoping to get some local breeder information at the convention I'm going to on Sunday, but I don't know if anyone there is going to be local or out of towners. Any advice on finding local breeders?

Where abouts do you live? If you are willing to let people know the area you live in it will allow for a better idea of where breeders are in location to you.

Ultra therm and T-rex online only? or can they be purchased at most pet store chains?
I know that I have never seen Ultra Therms in a pet store, and T-Rex products are also rare for me to see as well, but that is largely due to my location. My Local Pet Stores only supply Exo-terra, Zoo Med, and RZilla. I do a lot of my purchasing online because of the limitations in my area.

It sounds like I may only need a UTH then.
I have only once used a bulb to supplement my heat and that was when I first got my gecko. The mat for some reason never heated up to the proper heat required. I got a better thermometer and found out that my UTH was actually pumping out 115F and with the bulb the temperatures were reaching 130+F. Could never figure out why my gecko was always at the top of his tank on a silk plant and on the cool end.

I may just take the uva/b bulbs back and get these since the uva/b bulbs aren't really necessary.
A good vitamin supplemented diet ensures that they do not need the UV bulbs. I would recommend the Repashy Calcium Plus or T-Rex Leopard Gecko ICB, they are the same product. But if they are unavailable, then rep-cal, flukers, exo-terra, Zoo Med and T-Rex all make calcium and multi-vitamin dusting powders. I have used the Flukers calcium and multivitamin, and rep-cal calcium, but I have found that the Repashy Calcium powder is so much better, and the geckos all love it. I have not had one gecko refuse to eat a Repashy dusted food item.

If that's the case, then I'll try the UTH by itself and get a thermostat as you suggest. I presume an advantage to the proportional thermostats is that it ensures the a fairly constant/consistent temperature for the leo while the others will fluctuate a little more sense it turns off and back on?
The proportional thermostat does have a tighter differential, and is really good at maintaining a constant temperature. I use the Rancos and you can set a 1-30F differential, I have mine set at a 5 degree differential and it maintains my temperature to within +/- 2F, when set at 1 degree diff. it is almost bang on to maintaining the temp, maybe a +/- 0.5 on the thermometer reading.

Any idea on how long I should expect the tank to heat up to it's appropriate temperature?
That can vary from tank to tank. Your best option is to be like setting up a fish tank, let it run for a few days before actually getting the fish (there is more to it than that for fish) but the basics are the same. Let the tank sit for a while and then check on it to adjust the temperature as needed.

The tank came with a thermometer and a hydrometer...should I get any others/more. How do you monitor the warm side and cold side? ground temp? etc.

I suspect that it is the exo-terra digital ones, I find that the thermometer for them are very accurate. I run a few different brands of thermometers and they are all with in +/-0.5 of each other including my 2 exo-terra digital thermometers. Some people would suggest purchasing another one to monitor your cool side, but I have found with my tanks, that once the tank is established the temperature remains fairly consistent through out the tank and all I do is just move the probe from one side to the other and leave it to adjust to the new temperature and take the reading after a few hours to check the temp.
A quick way to trump the dual thermometers is to purchase an IR temperature gun, but they run for as low as $10-100+ and not really required for a leopard gecko.
 
M

mushraeddur

Guest
Where abouts do you live? If you are willing to let people know the area you live in it will allow for a better idea of where breeders are in location to you.

i live near louisville, kentucky
 

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