Back Heat = Bad Heat? [Big Pics]
- Thread starter eyelids
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supperl
G.Man <- ask HJ
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- 2,480
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- Germany, Hamm
thats an awsome gecko!!! I know why you like him most 
lytlesnake
Border Patrol Penguin
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- 695
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- So. California
I've got both back-heated (Jason's Jungle) and belly-heated (Herp Enclosures) hatchling racks in the same room, each on their own Herpstat ND proportional thermostats. Both racks use Flexwatt, and both are enclosed style PVC racks. With the back heated rack, I use an empty tub and tape the temperature probe to the bottom of the tub about an inch from the back. That way it heats the tub enough that there actually is belly heat at the back.
I set the temperature on the back-heated rack around 86-87 degrees. Since they're just small 6 qt. tubs, you don't want to run them too hot. If I turn it up much higher than that my geckos (and king/milk snakes) will hang out at the front of the tub, indicating that it's too warm for them.
I run the temperature on the belly-heated rack a little higher, 88-90 degrees. The belly-heated rack seems to be more efficient. In other words, it retains heat better. The Herpstat usually runs around 20%-30% on the belly-heated rack. On the back-heated rack it usually runs around 40%-60%. So I do think that belly-heated racks may keep your electrical bills lower and use less energy.
I live at 3200' elevation in the So. Cal mountains. I usually keep the ambient room temperature between 68-75 degrees.
I've got some of this year's hatchlings in each rack. The ones in the back-heated rack are growing just as well as the ones in the belly-heated rack.
I think the trick is to put the temperature probe on the bottom of the tub when using a back-heated rack. That's what's working for me anyway. Wherever you put the probe, you want to make sure that the bottom of the tub is getting warm in the back.
I set the temperature on the back-heated rack around 86-87 degrees. Since they're just small 6 qt. tubs, you don't want to run them too hot. If I turn it up much higher than that my geckos (and king/milk snakes) will hang out at the front of the tub, indicating that it's too warm for them.
I run the temperature on the belly-heated rack a little higher, 88-90 degrees. The belly-heated rack seems to be more efficient. In other words, it retains heat better. The Herpstat usually runs around 20%-30% on the belly-heated rack. On the back-heated rack it usually runs around 40%-60%. So I do think that belly-heated racks may keep your electrical bills lower and use less energy.
I live at 3200' elevation in the So. Cal mountains. I usually keep the ambient room temperature between 68-75 degrees.
I've got some of this year's hatchlings in each rack. The ones in the back-heated rack are growing just as well as the ones in the belly-heated rack.
I think the trick is to put the temperature probe on the bottom of the tub when using a back-heated rack. That's what's working for me anyway. Wherever you put the probe, you want to make sure that the bottom of the tub is getting warm in the back.
JConley
New Member
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- 281
- Location
- Central Illinois
I have said it before temp is probably the most important thing for geckos.
I believe proper temps in the proper locations are key to gecko health.
I believe proper temps in the proper locations are key to gecko health.
S
SteveB
Guest
It is entirely possible that he would have packed on the weight with back heat as well, though.... might have just been the way this gecko was, that he didn't put on weight until over a year old...
But I do agree, back heat is not the best option in cold environments.... heat tape doesn't do much to heat the ambient temperature significantly.
But I do agree, back heat is not the best option in cold environments.... heat tape doesn't do much to heat the ambient temperature significantly.
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