Brief guide to sorting/managing a large dubia colony (photos included)

SFgeckos

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842
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CA
I sent this email earlier to a client and thought it may be useful for forum members:

“The following are brief instructions on how I sort/manage a large dubia colony. I hope you find some of the following information valuable and that it can help you become more efficient with your dubia colony.

Every 3-4 weeks, depending on my schedule and needs, I will sort through one or two of my dubia roach bins. I use a three-step bin process in the management of my dubia colony. I have bins that contain “grow out” nymphs (ranging from small to medium sized nymphs which are fed to various insectivorous animals), large nymphs (to replace future breeding adults) and bins with breeding adults. In this particular case, I am sorting out a bin from my breeding adults that hasn’t been sorted in the last 3 months. This bin contained around 200 adult female dubia roaches with the male ratio 1/3-1/5. Assuming that the average production rate is 15-20 nymphs per month per adult female- at the very least there would be 3,000 nymphs collected (15 nymphs x 200 adult females x 1 month) and at the very most 12,000 nymphs (20 nymphs x 200 adult females x 3 months). I usually find that the production is somewhere within that range, mainly because not every female produces monthly or some may still be pregnant etc.

All my roaches are kept in large plastic containers, with no substrate and cardboard eggcrates to provide additional climbing surface area. The first step is pouring/shaking off all of the roaches out into a large empty plastic container. All the adults and large nymphs (greater than one inch) are removed and put into another empty container. The remaining small to medium nymphs, their waste products, and any leftover uneaten cat/dog kibble are put through a series of custom strainers (plastic containers with drilled holes of various sizes) until only the nymphs remain. These nymphs are then transferred into a new container with eggcrate to grow up and be fed out. The adults and large nymphs that were separated earlier, are now separated so that all sexed adults go into a new container, and the large nymphs are placed in a bin containing other large nymphs. These will be grown until they are sexable and replace older/retired adult colonies.

The reason that I chose this system instead of having “all mixed sizes” of nymphs and adults together is the ease of sorting/feeding out. Because I sort the adults away from all the nymphs, the next time I sort the adult bin again (say in another 3 months), all the nymphs will be within a similar size range because they were born within that time frame. Having established this system over many years, I now have the luxury of easily finding any particular sized nymphs. Say I need to feed a hundred baby geckos, I can pull out bins containing mainly half-inch sized nymphs, and as the geckos grow I can use a bin with mostly ¾ inch nymphs etc. With the bins containing large nymphs, I can sort those at any time putting those nymphs that have morphed into sexable adults into fresh bins to start a breeding colony. This enables accurate production management because I mark the date for the start of each colony on the container so I know when colonies are getting “old” and need to be replaced. Granted, this system isn’t as efficient if you have smaller colonies but this is what works for me! I spent 45 minutes this morning sorting the adult bin and separated 3,000-5,000 nymphs to feed to growing baby geckos. Depending on the time of the year and how many mouths that I need to feed, I will have anywhere from 12-20 nymph bins going at any one time.”

Photo 1: Collecting nymphs
Photo 2: Placing nymphs into fresh bin for "grow out"
Photo 3: Seperating adults from large nymphs

Let me know if anyone have any questions or comments!

Jon
 
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spykerherps

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Cool info Jon. Thanks
I do mine much the same way. although I am finding it hard to hold enough back to grow out to breed so I have more producing females. I guess I have too many hungry mouths to feed.
 

Imperial Geckos

LIVE THE LIFE ™
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1,166
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Miami, Fl
Sticky please! :main_thumbsup:

this is very informative and helpful, i just set up a colony of roaches and this is what i was looking for!

Jon can you post pictures of your roach colanders that use to sort the nymphs?
 

jermh1

New Member
Messages
207
Location
NJ
I do just about the same thing, for my main colonies I have switched to 20gal High aquariums as they take up less space than the bins for the same usable inside space. Each one holds 10 egg crates and 2 for a lid which helps hold in heat. The width is also just right so that you can wedge them in place and they wont fall all over the place.
DSC07111.jpg



I use bins for growing out to adult, and keep my extra males. I was slacking on my sorting and just did it yesterday, from 2 of these bins, I took out 1100 females and around 1500 males and that was only half of what was in there.
DSC06784.jpg


I sort mine into 3 sizes, I drill holes in 5gal buckets 1/4, 5/16, 7/16 I stack the buckets and jiggle them through. (not my Idea got from youtube video)
anything left ontop of the 7/16 holes goes to the grow out bin. the smaller 3 groups go into individual 26qt bins which makes feeding easy, almost no picking for sizes.


DSC06273.jpg


DSC06274.jpg


my colonies are easly feeding 18 adult leopard geckos and over 60 juvies, I was thinking of getting into Tokays just to feed off my extra males
I started in Dec 08 with 400 extra smalls
 

thegeckoguy23

New Member
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2,231
Location
goffstown NH
I do just about the same thing, for my main colonies I have switched to 20gal High aquariums as they take up less space than the bins for the same usable inside space. Each one holds 10 egg crates and 2 for a lid which helps hold in heat. The width is also just right so that you can wedge them in place and they wont fall all over the place.
DSC07111.jpg



I use bins for growing out to adult, and keep my extra males. I was slacking on my sorting and just did it yesterday, from 2 of these bins, I took out 1100 females and around 1500 males and that was only half of what was in there.
DSC06784.jpg


I sort mine into 3 sizes, I drill holes in 5gal buckets 1/4, 5/16, 7/16 I stack the buckets and jiggle them through. (not my Idea got from youtube video)
anything left ontop of the 7/16 holes goes to the grow out bin. the smaller 3 groups go into individual 26qt bins which makes feeding easy, almost no picking for sizes.


DSC06273.jpg


DSC06274.jpg


my colonies are easly feeding 18 adult leopard geckos and over 60 juvies, I was thinking of getting into Tokays just to feed off my extra males
I started in Dec 08 with 400 extra smalls



Ian from The Roach Ranch said that in tanks it is hard to hold humidty
 

jermh1

New Member
Messages
207
Location
NJ
I had cardboard on the screens (2/3) but found that I did not have enough ventilation and had too much humidity. After a grain mite outbreak I pulled it off, and just wind up loosing a small % to bad sheds. For humidity you can staple or tape cardboard to the screen top and get it where ever you want, up to the point where you can get condensation on the sides. If you look closely there is a pair of egg crates laying flat over the vertical ones, this holds in heat and builds humidity (where the roaches are), you can actually feel a waft of warm moist air when its lifted. Also brings up a good point that your heat will also be hard to keep up with just a wide open screen lid, and again look at my pics, you see almost no roaches and yet there are around 1100-1200 adults in each one + nymphs (not counting the Hissers) , they are all in the eggcrates. I do agree that this may not work as well in more arid regions, but here in NJ it works fine. And I can hold 5 tanks in the same space of 3 large bins, they waste a good 6 in of the length and 6in of the width on taper that the roaches dont use.

I also bore out two center bottom sections out of each egg crate so they have a highway to the food.
 
J

jteller86

Guest
Problem with starting Colony

I have a few questions. I've had my colony for over two months now. I started with four adult pairs and 100 assorted sized nymphs. i haven't been feeding them off and it seems like there is less then what i started with.

I actually have just started seeing new baby nymphs within the past two weeks. I realize that it takes some time to start up but im wondering if the adult roaches will eat the smaller ones. It seems like all i have now is adults and no verity of sizes in the nymphs. this leads me to believe that they have been eaten because i dont believe they have all matured to adults in a two month period. Also, it looks like alot of the babies from over the past two weeks are missing.

Sorry if this question is strange or in the wrong place, this is my first post on here. I just want to get to a point were i can feed my leo's with the roaches.
 

jermh1

New Member
Messages
207
Location
NJ
First thing I would say is they might be getting out. I have not had a problem with adults eating nymphs, some when they shed get half eaten but not that many. do a count if your worried.
when I first started I was doing something to my colony every week.

Its a long road to sustainable feeding or at least is was for me, now im feed well over 100 a day.
Id say once your first couple groups of nymphs become adults and start breeding.
 
Last edited:

thegeckoguy23

New Member
Messages
2,231
Location
goffstown NH
I do just about the same thing, for my main colonies I have switched to 20gal High aquariums as they take up less space than the bins for the same usable inside space. Each one holds 10 egg crates and 2 for a lid which helps hold in heat. The width is also just right so that you can wedge them in place and they wont fall all over the place.
DSC07111.jpg



I use bins for growing out to adult, and keep my extra males. I was slacking on my sorting and just did it yesterday, from 2 of these bins, I took out 1100 females and around 1500 males and that was only half of what was in there.
DSC06784.jpg


I sort mine into 3 sizes, I drill holes in 5gal buckets 1/4, 5/16, 7/16 I stack the buckets and jiggle them through. (not my Idea got from youtube video)
anything left ontop of the 7/16 holes goes to the grow out bin. the smaller 3 groups go into individual 26qt bins which makes feeding easy, almost no picking for sizes.


DSC06273.jpg


DSC06274.jpg


my colonies are easly feeding 18 adult leopard geckos and over 60 juvies, I was thinking of getting into Tokays just to feed off my extra males
I started in Dec 08 with 400 extra smalls


Did you get that idea from Ian just out of curosty?
 

RoninSTi

New Member
Messages
148
Location
North Haven, CT
This is all great info. I'm subscribing. I ordered 1000 small nymphs in January. I just had my first round of babies this weekend, so I finally have a colony going.

Just a side note for jermh1, If you need something to eat your males...I recommend a bearded dragon. My beardie is super fun, and DESTROYS adult males. I had WAY too many nymphs morph into males, and he took care of that problem real quick.
 

fuzzylogix

Carpe Diem
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2,115
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Dallas, TX
Just a side note for jermh1, If you need something to eat your males...I recommend a bearded dragon. My beardie is super fun, and DESTROYS adult males. I had WAY too many nymphs morph into males, and he took care of that problem real quick.

+1, that's exactly how i cull out my extra males. either to my beardie or to my BTS
 

SFgeckos

New Member
Messages
842
Location
CA
Patience my friend! =) The only DOWN side of keeping/breeding dubia roaches? (nobody ever shares this secret) You tend to increase your collection size since feeding is basically free haha

It just took me almost two hours to feed a third of the insectivores...that's an estimated 3,000 dubia nymphs fed in one night!

Good night!
Jon
 

fuzzylogix

Carpe Diem
Messages
2,115
Location
Dallas, TX
some people use canned cat food, ive actually done well using cricket gutload, baby food, flukers orange cubes, water crystals, and by putting fresh greens and carrots in about once a week
 

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