Geckomaster743
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Another Guide you may find useful-
http://petreptilezone.blogspot.com/2010/05/how-to-feed-sick-leopard-gecko.html
BTW - how is her weight right now, is she skinny or does she still have a decent amount of tail fat?
You never want to force liquid into a gecko's mouth if you can avoid it - they can very easily inhale it and either choke, or develop a respiratory infection as a result. Usually I put a drop on their nose, they'll try to lick it off at which point I start adding more as fast as they lick it away.
A few pointers - combine the food and liquid. The more watered down mix is accepted more readily, and it saves the gecko the stress of two feedings. I also suspect that a syringe of repta aid and a syringe of water is likely far more of a liquid volume than she can handle.
I've found that some geckos take a while to get going, but once they do they'll lap down an entire syringe in a minute. It may take some patience but she will lap at it eventually. As for dosing every gecko is different but mine usually only accept about one small syringe of watered down repta-aid every other night. Go by the directions on the bottle for the calcium dosing and don't overdo it.
I personally would not bother with dried meal-worms - None of my geckos will touch them when they are in perfect health, let alone when their appetites are depressed. The only thing I've really had luck with them for is powdering and mixing with repta-aid to make a sort of stew for sick lizards - may help but it is really only something i do for extremely long term illness.
Fresh meal worms or super-worms with the heads cut off work very well because they smell strongly and the reptiles can lap at the guts which eventually leads to biting and eating. I could be wrong but in my experience the dried food is rarely if ever accepted willingly and definitely would not be my choice for enticing a sick gecko to eat. My geckos will almost always lap at the 'juice' from a freshly killed super-worm and will grab and eat the worm once they are ready. It honestly is not something I enjoy doing but the technique works pretty well.
Don't stress if she doesn't accept food immediately - they can go months without food if necessary and she isn't going to die from skipping a few meals. Don't force things, and don't stress her - this is going to take time. Again I know circumstances are tough right now but I would still advise a vet visit if possible. They can confirm the diagnosis of MBD, establish if there are any broken bones, and provide injections to help with her calcium levels and boost her appetite.
Hope to see improvement soon!
I guess i havent explained the situation as much have i. Well thanks for the information Kelly about the inhaling i did not know that. And what i mean by i havent explained my self is because most of the stuff ive been telling you is a bit out dated. Like the Repta Aid may be the only thing she gets in the day rather then both syringes but i some days take turns with some days like. Repta + Water Syringe / Repta / Repta + Water Syringe / Repta.
Just by keeping it like that shes not taking in too much, And plus i only ever let her finish half the syringe and let her finish the rest the next day or i continue the schedule. Though its worth a try to get her to eat dead mealworms and i think i'll try to do the super worm idea, Any thing to get her to eat. Though wow this is the first time in a while that ive actually learned some thing VERY important. I did not know they can choke so i think i wont rush her the moment she sticks her tounge out to try drinking. Normally i offer it and when she dosent accept i put more and more on her nose untill she quickly begins to lick it because she dosent want to drink it. I then contine to put it on her tounge while she licks it off the nose and it goes from there. Normally the doses arent too high and its not too bad on consumption because like i said she dosent get to drink it all because she gets full or needs to catch her breath and take a break.