Creating a better temp gradient

[ImNotYogi]

I received my first leopard gecko a few days ago so I'm still learning. I'm afraid it gets too hot for him during the day. He's in a 10g tank with reptile carpet and I have a heat pad on the right side hooked up to a dimmer. His temps are good every morning before I leave work but there's no gradient when I get back. I normally turn my AC off if I'm working so the temps shoot up to mid-high 90s in all of his hides. He's always in the moist hide when I get back. He's new but has been eating since the day I got him and otherwise seems pretty healthy. I worry that it gets too hot, though. Today I left the AC on hoping it wouldn't get too bad for him but came back to a block of ice in the front, it's old and I cleaned the filter last night. Any ideas? Should I turn the heat pad off during the hotter parts of the day?

 

[panthergecko]

Try to get the uth to 88-90.
To fix the temp gradient (this worked for me when I had a 10 gallon)
-Try adding some hammocks with hides so they can escape the heat.
-put some papertowels under the reptile carpet.

-(1)Monitor behavior and if this mehtod works for.
-(2)Check temps to make sure temps drop.

-what are you using to check temperature?
*The dial thermometers are not really accurate and only measure air temp.

 

[ImNotYogi]

I'll try putting paper towels under the carpet and if that doesn't work then I'll try the hammocks. Should I just put them on the cool side or the entire floor? I've started turning the UTH down while I'm away and that's been helping. I have a zoomed digital terrarium probe and a zoomed reptitemp digital infared thermometer. I also have a thermometer tape thing that came with the UTH. I check the temps in all hides several times daily so I know when to adjust things.
I've only had him for a week or so and he's doing great so far. Has been eating great since the first night and doesn't freak out anymore when I pick him up or pet him. I've read you get a better idea of patterns and health after a month or two, though.

Edit: I put two layers of paper towels on the cool side of the tank and it's creating a 10-12 degree difference. Just need to adjust the UTH to get the proper temps. Thank you.

 

[SORROW89]

I'll try putting paper towels under the carpet and if that doesn't work then I'll try the hammocks. Should I just put them on the cool side or the entire floor? I've started turning the UTH down while I'm away and that's been helping. I have a zoomed digital terrarium probe and a zoomed reptitemp digital infared thermometer. I also have a thermometer tape thing that came with the UTH. I check the temps in all hides several times daily so I know when to adjust things.
I've only had him for a week or so and he's doing great so far. Has been eating great since the first night and doesn't freak out anymore when I pick him up or pet him. I've read you get a better idea of patterns and health after a month or two, though.

Edit: I put two layers of paper towels on the cool side of the tank and it's creating a 10-12 degree difference. Just need to adjust the UTH to get the proper temps. Thank you.

You can't get a good gradient in a 10 gallon, it's too small. Get a 20 gallon long.

 

[ImNotYogi]

You can't get a good gradient in a 10 gallon, it's too small. Get a 20 gallon long.

I've thought about it just because it looks a little cramp since I bought hides big enough for an adult leo. Then I noticed I wasn't getting any sort of gradient let alone a proper one. I'll get one soon.

 

[GeckoCrossing]

You can't get a good gradient in a 10 gallon, it's too small. Get a 20 gallon long.

You can get a gradient in a 10 gallon tank easily. I use 10 gallon tanks for all of my local customers. I sell them a 10 gallon tank, screen lid, adhered, grouted and sealed tile for the bottom of the tank at cost. Not one of them has ever had a temperature gradient problem. Maybe it's just the tile... but 10G tanks have worked for me for years.

 

[katie_]

You can't get a good gradient in a 10 gallon, it's too small. Get a 20 gallon long.

I disagree. I get fine gradients in my tens.
I also have a female who does not feel secure in a 20, and went off food. Once she was placed back in a ten, she started eating again.

 

[Jaiden23]

Wow.. somehow I managed to post a response to a different thread here.

Anyway, It does sound like you need something that will help conduct the heat better. We use sand under our tiles as a conductor and it works amazingly well. I'm not sure I would try sand under carpet though, seems like that would be an awful mess when it comes time to take the carpet out to clean it. It seems like the paper towels would work pretty well.

I agree about switching to a 20L if you can. I've used 10 gallon tanks in the past without problem, but I've always been happier with our 20L's.

 

[SORROW89]

I'm not trying to bother anyone by saying you can't get a good gradient, believe me. I didn't really get it at first when people with more experience than me said it but t started reading a lot about how reptiles regulate temps and then I understood. The harm that it causes not to regulate their temps as they should can cause harm later on in life. I can't explain it as well as someone you has a better understanding, but if you start researching and reading deep you'll begin to understand.

 

[ImNotYogi]

I'm not trying to bother anyone by saying you can't get a good gradient, believe me. I didn't really get it at first when people with more experience than me said it but t started reading a lot about how reptiles regulate temps and then I understood. The harm that it causes not to regulate their temps as they should can cause harm later on in life. I can't explain it as well as someone you has a better understanding, but if you start researching and reading deep you'll begin to understand.

I wasn't bothered or offended by what you said at all. I know temps are important for reptiles and I don't want to be arrogant/stupid and think mine will be fine without a proper gradient. I researched leos and beardies for a few months before taking the plunge but I know that I can't know everything just reading about them. They're a big commitment so anything that helps me take better care of him is always welcome

 

[GodzillaGecko]

you can always try a thermostat to help control the UTH so it doesn't get overly hot. Also you can get maybe a small fan to help vent out the excess heat from the tank. Not sure if that would work but maybe it would help.

 

[Cesar_Da_KIng]

I disagree. I get fine gradients in my tens.
I also have a female who does not feel secure in a 20, and went off food. Once she was placed back in a ten, she started eating again.

The same thing happened to me. I put cesar in a 20 gal and he went into some seriouse depression so i put him back. I get a fantastic gradient in my 10 gal. tanks. What the OP needs is a probe thermometer and you said you have a lamp dimmer so set it a little low so at the hottest time of the day its at the perfect temp so it heats up and then cools down throughout the day which can also simulate what happens if he was in the wild if im correct.

 

[ImNotYogi]

The same thing happened to me. I put cesar in a 20 gal and he went into some seriouse depression so i put him back. I get a fantastic gradient in my 10 gal. tanks. What the OP needs is a probe thermometer and you said you have a lamp dimmer so set it a little low so at the hottest time of the day its at the perfect temp so it heats up and then cools down throughout the day which can also simulate what happens if he was in the wild if im correct.

What do you do to get your gradient? Currently I put some paper towels on half of the tank between the glass and reptile carpet. Three layers on the cool side and two in the middle. There's some difference but definitely not ideal. Cool hide is 85F (29.5), moist is 80F (26.6C), and hot side is 88F (31C). I currently have a ZooMed Digital Terrarium Thermometer with Temperature Probe (link) and a ZooMed Reptitemp Digital Infrared Thermometer (link)
I turned the dimmer down today before leaving for work and that helped.

 

[SORROW89]

The same thing happened to me. I put cesar in a 20 gal and he went into some seriouse depression so i put him back. I get a fantastic gradient in my 10 gal. tanks. What the OP needs is a probe thermometer and you said you have a lamp dimmer so set it a little low so at the hottest time of the day its at the perfect temp so it heats up and then cools down throughout the day which can also simulate what happens if he was in the wild if im correct.

It's not because you moved them to a larger tank I bet, it's because of the change. It just takes a little while for them to get over it. They just get stressed about new things. It happens sometimes even if you move their stuff around.

 

[SORROW89]

What do you do to get your gradient? Currently I put some paper towels on half of the tank between the glass and reptile carpet. Three layers on the cool side and two in the middle. There's some difference but definitely not ideal. Cool hide is 85F (29.5), moist is 80F (26.6C), and hot side is 88F (31C). I currently have a ZooMed Digital Terrarium Thermometer with Temperature Probe (link) and a ZooMed Reptitemp Digital Infrared Thermometer (link)
I turned the dimmer down today before leaving for work and that helped.

The cool side needs to be around 75.

 

[Cesar_Da_KIng]

It's not because you moved them to a larger tank I bet, it's because of the change. It just takes a little while for them to get over it. They just get stressed about new things. It happens sometimes even if you move their stuff around.

Ya i know its stress but he was stressed for 3 weeks in the 20 gal. and wasnt eating which is not a healthy amount of stress and he is now back in his 10 and very happy and eating a lot so why stress him out if hes happy?

 

[Cesar_Da_KIng]

What do you do to get your gradient? Currently I put some paper towels on half of the tank between the glass and reptile carpet. Three layers on the cool side and two in the middle. There's some difference but definitely not ideal. Cool hide is 85F (29.5), moist is 80F (26.6C), and hot side is 88F (31C). I currently have a ZooMed Digital Terrarium Thermometer with Temperature Probe (link) and a ZooMed Reptitemp Digital Infrared Thermometer (link)
I turned the dimmer down today before leaving for work and that helped.

Well for starters I run A/C lol. But there are several things you can do. One two replace the lack of ac try running a fan close to the tank or get a little desk fan and put it on top blowing into the tank. This will lower the humidity some so youll want to monitor it dosent get to dry. The next thing i do is set the goal of getting one cool and one hot HIDE instead of one cool and one hot SIDE. See for my hot hide i have a 10-20 gal. size heat pad (Medium/small) Then i put a hide that covers 90% of the pad over it. this makes a nice little micro climate of about 90 in the hide and outside the hide in the whole cage its 85. And i know what your thinking, isaac thats not 85 isnt low enough? I know so what i do for the cool hide is take a couple of old THIN plastic containers and i taped one ontop of the other and cut out a little door in each. i then made the bottom one the dry hide and the top one the moist hide. This method makes the dry hide very cool if done with thin enough plastic and the cool dry hide is about 77 in my tank. See now you have great gradient 90, 85 and 75 so hell always have a good temp. Hope this helps, good luck

 

[ImNotYogi]

Well for starters I run A/C lol. But there are several things you can do. One two replace the lack of ac try running a fan close to the tank or get a little desk fan and put it on top blowing into the tank. This will lower the humidity some so youll want to monitor it dosent get to dry. The next thing i do is set the goal of getting one cool and one hot HIDE instead of one cool and one hot SIDE. See for my hot hide i have a 10-20 gal. size heat pad (Medium/small) Then i put a hide that covers 90% of the pad over it. this makes a nice little micro climate of about 90 in the hide and outside the hide in the whole cage its 85. And i know what your thinking, isaac thats not 85 isnt low enough? I know so what i do for the cool hide is take a couple of old THIN plastic containers and i taped one ontop of the other and cut out a little door in each. i then made the bottom one the dry hide and the top one the moist hide. This method makes the dry hide very cool if done with thin enough plastic and the cool dry hide is about 77 in my tank. See now you have great gradient 90, 85 and 75 so hell always have a good temp. Hope this helps, good luck

The temps I listed above are the temps in each hide with the A/C on. Having a fan on it doesn't seem to do much good, either. I had one on the outside of the tank not pointing inward. I think I'll just get a 20gal L tonight. I was going to get one when he got a little bigger anyway. The paper towels under the carpet works a little but it's not enough. I can understand little to no gradient with no A/C on but it should be better with one on. Either way, this is a fun learning process

 

[ImNotYogi]

Okay, bought a 20 gal long tonight and the temperatures have improved. He's already eaten several mealworms so he doesn't seem too bothered by the changes yet. Are there any other signs of stress I should look for?

 

[Cesar_Da_KIng]

Thats pretty good. See my leo got stressed cause hes been in a 10 his whole life. Your will be much more adaptable since you just got him and hes not used to a cage yet. As far as stress just make shure hes eating and maintains or gains weight, poos regularly, and what not, but it sounds like hes taking to the 20L fine. Good luck