First time breeding - need to know everything!

[perfectsoldier23]

Hey everyone,

So I am anxiously awaiting the delivery of my Raining Red Stripe female this morning and I wanted to begin gathering some information regarding breeding. I currently have an 8 month male Rainwater Albino to be bred to the new Raining Red Stripe female.
I've done some research here on the forum and have seen a lot of very specific questions regarding breeding in this section - I apologize if there is a general discussion that I missed. Please point me to it!
The searching I've done on google has shown a lot of results and that is why I am here, I want a tried and true method explained in detail to me so I can make sure that this first attempt goes smoothly and with as little stress as possible. I understand that my female will require some amount of time to settle in so I'm currently just gathering information to use at a later time.

I've read online that the ideal weight per breeding female is 50g and above?
I watched a breeding operation once in person and noticed that the breeder was feeding his female leo "waxworms" for proper nutrition and development for the egg and embryo. What is the ideal diet for a breeding-ready female?
I understand creating a photoperiod to simulate winter and spring. Then I read somewhere else that it wasn't exactly necessary. Being as it's coming into October, it seems as though I've just missed the typical breeding window for leos. Is this something I can still simulate? Or should I wait until next year to begin? Is the photoperiod truly necessary? How else will I know if my female is ovulating?
Is it safe to allow my female to lay the eggs in her larger terranium? People have put them in pretty small plastic cups to lay in a special substrate [moss or perlite] between 2-3 weeks after a witnessed consummation with a male. Is that the better route?
What are some recommended substrates for incubating eggs? How will I know when my female is done laying? Does her diet need to be changed at all while laying? [Is "gravid" the same term for egg-bearing?]

Thanks everyone - clearly I have a lot of questions so any additional / helpful information [or simply a step by step run down of your small breeding operation] would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[NinjaDuo]

1. Don't breed.

Do you have an incubator? Do you have any knowledge on baby husbandry? Do you have room for the babies that could possible be produced? Vet/feeding money set aside?

I can answer all of your questions in another post. But you really should think on it, then wait a bit longer and think some more.

 

[perfectsoldier23]

No no, not looking at breeding right this second ;] But, how am I to know what to expect and to get knowledgeable on the fact if I don't ask questions regarding the two I am looking at crossing?
No incubator because I do not know what constitutes one. Google searches state that breeders have been placing their eggs in individual cups, covering them 1/2 way with substrate [moss or perlite], misting them and then leaving them be until they hatch. Of course, checking on them to make sure they aren't flaccid or oriented improperly. Whether or not this is correct is the reason why I am here.
I do not have baby husbandry knowledge but could sure use some! The demands as hatchlings is something I need to familiarize myself with.
And yes, I have a bulk order of 25 individual cups with lids for each egg / hatchling, a 5 gal terranium to house a few of the same gender and then about 3 plastic "cricket" containers each approx. 3 gal I would say in the event that some need to be separated or monitored closely.

My job provides adequate enough pay to where I can be buying mealworms as needed, in bulk. As well as other supplies and needs. So, while I don't have money "set aside", the feeding demands have been weighed and are affordable as far as a constant supply of baby mealworms, calcium and vitamins are concerned. If they need additional food options, those will be factored in as well. While I do not have money set aside for vet charges, I have made contact with my local vet to verify that they are experienced in reptiles and, more specifically, have worked with geckos. Along with the vet insight, I have a local breeder watching over my shoulder. He has offered me his opinions and an explanation of his process but the reason I am here is to gather all the information possible of tried and true methods.

 

[Phoenix1115]

-Yes, weight should be at least 50g.
-Waxworms are basically just butter sticks so very bad nutrition and should only be used as treats very occasionally. They are also addicting so if you feed them too much your leo could stop eating their other food and only eat the waxworms. Just feed the normal diet (crickets, mealworms, superworms, dubias, etc) and make sure she has all the extra nutrients she needs. I recommend Rephasy Calcium Plus. She'll also need a bowl of pure calcium in her tank to lick when she wants to. I offer my breeders a pinky mouse every once in a while too. They are high in protein. Basically, if you have to power feed her to get up to weight or keep on a healthy weight, she shouldn't be bred.
-I've never used any special lights or photoperiods to breed so definitely not crucial to the process.
-Actually, you are right on time for preparing for breeding season. It begins in February, so these few months will give you enough time to get everything you need (incubator, extra housing, heating, etc) and to make sure your female and male are both of a healthy weight and eating well. I made the mistake of breeding a 50g female that wasn't a consistent eater, and she ended up losing 12g by the end of the season because she stopped eating.
-To tell if a female is ovulating, sometimes you an see a little pink orb in the middle of her belly. Sometimes they also stop eating while they ovulate. Sometimes you can't tell at all until you put your pair together and see if your female accepts or rejects her mate.
-My females lay their eggs in their humid hides. I use sphagnum moss in a tupperware, but I think I am going to switch to eco earth because it's better for digging. Some of my females have a habit of kicking away all the moss before laying the eggs so they get stuck to the bottom of the box. If you don't provide somewhere to lay them, they will definitely stick to whatever she lays them on. This can make it very hard to remove them, and if you aren't careful you can rip them.
-For incubation, perlite, vermiculate, and hatchrite all work well. There are others out there but I don't have any experience with them personally. Depending on what you use, you'll have to look up the correct ratio of substrate to water. Make sure to set up your incubator a few weeks before you are expecting your eggs. This gives you time to make sure the temperature is right and doesn't fluctuate, and also to make sure the humidity is good.
-I feed mine as often as they'll eat (within reasonable limits) when they are reproducing. This just ensures she keeps up the proper weight, and has the proper nutrients for healthy egg production. If your female is a tank and has no problem eating, the a regular diet should be fine. Don't want to overdue it and make her fat.
-You'll know when she's done laying eggs when a month goes by and she hasn't produced anymore! You can see the eggs in their bellies.
-Gravid is like saying pregnant.

 

[LittleFoot]

i was wondering the same things. Thank you Phoenix1115!

Is cooling necessary? i have heard many breeders say it is a must and others saying no.

 

[acpart]

Cooling for leopard geckos is generally not considered to be necessary. Some of my females cool themselves but I don't see any difference in production between the ones that slept and didn't eat and the ones that kept eating.

Aliza

 

[perfectsoldier23]

Awesome information Phoenix - thank you so much!
My male [as far as I was told] is approx. 8 months old. Do the males have a weight or age that they need to be matured to prior to breeding?

 

[LittleFoot]

Awesome information Phoenix - thank you so much!
My male [as far as I was told] is approx. 8 months old. Do the males have a weight or age that they need to be matured to prior to breeding?

i was told that males reach sexual maturity at about 8 months old.

 

[LepoInc]

Males tend to mature more around 5-6 months, and females from 7-9 months. If you're unsure, definitely give them time. Males will go off food when breeding so that will stunt growth which is important in a young gecko because they do most/all of their growing in the first year and a half. I'm not saying you can't breed young males, but be sure to get them up to weight, 55-60g, before doing so.

Don't rush anything. Right now, you still have a good 3-5 months before breeding season. Most geckos born the year previous, given they are properly raised and cared for, should be able to breed the following year.