Flexwatt warning...

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
This is probably all my fault, but just thought I'd toss out a warning.

I had foil tape on all 4 sides, including over the connectors on a OSB board.
Last night I slid our 20 gallon tank across the board and flexwatt. I heard a pop at the rheostat and then the flexwatt went cold. I wasn't sure what happened as the flexwatt tape looked fine.

Tonight I went to Home Depot and bought their cheapest dimmer switch, cut out the rheostat and spliced in the dimmer. When I turned on the dimmer there was a loud pop and green flash at the dimmer. As I went to reach for the outlet there was another green flash at the wire to flexwatt connection.

The connectors had been insulated with that thick black stuff that comes with the clips.

All I can figure is that when I slid the tank, it tore a chunk out of the black stuff over the connectors, then the foil tape connected the clips together.

Scary stuff.

View attachment 47834

View attachment 47835
 

forgivenick

New Member
Messages
151
Location
San Diego, CA
Thanks for posting this. So sorry to hear about this scary time for you. So you would advise to keep the foil tape away from the ends as much as possible? That seems to be the main take home message I got from your experience. Any other advice you have for us who are setting up new racks with flex watt?
 

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
I'm not in a position to give advice on this. I'm new to the hobby and have only been using this stuff for a couple months. Scared the crap out of me though.

I'm very concerned over this since the leos are kept in the loft outside my kids rooms.

I have it out in the garage plugged in to the same dimmer all by itself on the concrete floor and it seems fine. Im going to leave it plugged in over night and make sure it's ok there first.

Based in this experience alone, I will:

A. Keep the tank clear of the connectors so that black insulation can't get damaged

B. Not use aluminum tape

Again I'm very new to this so I'm not giving advice, just telling you what I'm doing.

What I do know for sure is that the aluminum tape conducted enough electricity to bridge the gap of those two wires 11 inches apart because with it gone its not arcing anymore.
 

cherishedtiger

New Member
Messages
138
Location
Citrus Heights CA
Hmmm.... mt flexwatt has clear hard plastic caps over the actual connectors, I wonder if the black plastic covering you had got too hot and that caused it to melt, then making the connection through the metal tape.
Good to know though, I will keep an eye out on mine!
 

LBsLeos

New Member
Messages
71
Location
Nebraska
This is why I am not a huge fan of these connectors. I did not use them at all. I soldered all my connections and covered them with electrical tape. I also used foil tape over all my flexwatt edges to secure it to shelves. I have had not issues in 3 years. (knock on wood)
 

That_DL_Kid

New Member
Messages
46
Location
Georgia
What kind of Thermostat were you using? I love the connection kit ReptileBasics sells for $5 they have worked perfectly for 4 years of gecko keeping with over 4 amps running through it.

I really wouldn't blame the foil tape laying it over the connection is asking for trouble.

Also look up the wattage of your thermostat to make sure you aren't overloading it. For example the 4" Flexwatt is 8 watts/ft. If you did all that then good job.
 

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,590
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
As CherishedTiger said my flex watt has a clear plastic insulators over the clips under the electrical tape. Were there additional insulators on your tape? If not, I'm thinking electrical tape alone over the connection clip isn't sufficient insulation. I would assume some of the electricity "jumped" from the connection to the foil tape which melted the electrical tape over time and eventually the "jump" with no insulation caused the sparks.
 

specialtyreptile

New Member
Messages
69
Location
Minneapolis, MN
Loose connections can cause overheating and shorts... after beating up (sliding cages over) the connections they become loose and get an intermittant connection... Over heating and fires are true dangers.. If you are using the clip connectors you must be aware and careful... I solder all of my connections to ensure saftey and keep anything metal (tape) away from the exposed/cut ends of the flexwatt...

One should always set a schedule to check fittings, connections and insulators of your heating/electrical systems for saftey and protecting from fires.
 

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
The metal connectors came with a rectangular piece of this thick almost gummy type of insulator with a hole in the center. It's pretty thick when folded over the connector and should of been ok.

I'll definitely have to look into soldering them from now on and some of the other suggestions you guys have mentioned.

I think the take away from this is that if your using foil tape, keep it away from the connectors.
 

pastelball

Member
Messages
302
Location
Galloway, Oh
heat tape really need to be recessed in the rack. Its not made for something to be slid over it. If you can't recesse the heat tape. Go to the hardware store of craft store and look for the half round rubbers. they have a sticky back and you can attach them to each corner of the bottom of the tank so it will not sit right on the connectors
 

Thorgecko707

THORGECKO
Messages
2,085
Location
Northern California
The tank sliding over the flexwatt probably broke a connection. There is clearly a weld in the picture. One of the main problems was buying the cheapest components. Always buy the most durable parts. Your life depends on it. Only use a compatible thermostat and follow all directions.
 

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
Where do you see a weld?

It was standard flexwatt tape and the fold over connectors.

It's the exact same thing they sell at big apple.

aeeec384-d114-dcf8.jpg
 

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
So how do you 'properly' install it?

I still don't understand your weld comment.

The connectors were crimped on per the instructions I got with it, that was then protected with the included insulators.
 

Thorgecko707

THORGECKO
Messages
2,085
Location
Northern California
So how do you 'properly' install it?

I still don't understand your weld comment.

The connectors were crimped on per the instructions I got with it, that was then protected with the included insulators.

The weld is where your faulty connection is located. If you remove the aluminum tape then you will see melted metal. Aluminum tape is an excellent way to attach the heat tape. Electrical tape should be used for insulation of the electrode. If anyone feels they are not comfortable installing these systems then I strongly recommend hiring a licensed and insured electrician. Never use a rheostat or dimmer on fluxuating electronic devices. Only use the proper, qualified thermostat that is designed to monitor and control heating devices. Use of surge protectors and gfci devices are strongly recommended. These aren't toys, they are devices that can protect or destroy you. Flexwatt clearly states how much wattage per foot is output. All thermostats clearly state how much wattage input is recommended.
 

RampantReptiles

New Member
Messages
2,488
Location
Canandaigua, NY
You should not be sliding anything with much weight over the flexwatt. Not only does it rip at the connection for the electrical wiring, hence what happened to you, but it can also scratch the surface of the heat tape and result in a fire hazard. FLEXWATT IS VERY DANGEROUS IF NOT USED PROPERLY!! IT HAS CAUSED HOUSE FIRES AND THE LIVES OF MANY!!!

If you are using aquariums I would attach flexwatt to the back of the rack or aquarium, not underneath. That way nothing is sliding over it. This is not the ideal setup for geckos since they require belly heat but it is safe.

What pastelball said may also work. If you are using short pieces of heat tape that permanently stay under the aquarium, in the same manner as an UTH then you need to have the aquarium propped up on rubber feet, same as an UTH. If you are using them this way I highly recommend that you invest in UTH instead, they are much better built and safer. The cost of your family, house, reptiles etc is worth spending the extra money on a UTH....

Information on flexwatt and its use:
http://www.bigappleherp.com/Flex-Watt-Heat-Tape
http://www.reptilebasics.com/flexwatt_faq
 

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
I'm now only using it for small 15qt plastic breeder style bins.

I'm also going to install a GFCI outlet to the room and hook it all up to a hydro farm thermostat. I think the GFCI outlet will minimize any fire risks.

I plan on replacing my current setup with an animal plastics rack and herpstat in the very near future.
 

Thorgecko707

THORGECKO
Messages
2,085
Location
Northern California
I'm now only using it for small 15qt plastic breeder style bins.

I'm also going to install a GFCI outlet to the room and hook it all up to a hydro farm thermostat. I think the GFCI outlet will minimize any fire risks.

I plan on replacing my current setup with an animal plastics rack and herpstat in the very near future.

That sounds like a great setup. Animal Plastics has the best racks I've ever seen. To top it off, CDPVC is not flammable. So your rack CANT go up in flames. Worst case scenario is that sparks will fly. I also recommend installing a smoke detector AND flame detector above your rack or in the room. Monoxide detectors are good too. Any sort of alarming devices just add insurance that you can be notified if something goes wrong.
 

xray328

New Member
Messages
76
Location
Chicagoland
They're gonna be at the local NARBC show in October so I'll pick it up then. Better save up some cash, might be an expensive trip :)

Thanks for everyones help on this!
 

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