Gargoyle gecko enclosure...

[DragonBeards]

K, so I have a 20g tall tank, all set up. It has anywhere from 3-6" of dirt (a mixture of plain potting soil and some pet store reptile soil), and a ZooMed 24" light. Right now I have in it 2 64 watt bulbs (the spiral kind you get in bulk at costco). I'm wanting to grow and maintain plants in this tank (it will be my first with live plants). Would this lighting be enough, or do I need to get something else? I can only have a max of 64 watts each bulb.

Also, I was planning on just getting the live plants they sell at P**C* for $3. Are these good, or should I go somewhere else?

Anywho, thanks in advance!

DragonBeards

 

[thegeckoguy23]

I would subjest lllreptile.com

 

[thegeckoguy23]

I would subjest lllreptile.com

I ment http://www.lllreptile.com

 

[acpart]

I have 6 planted tanks: 2 for day geckos, 2 for fat tails, 1 for a crestie, and more recently, 1 for a new gargoyle. In general, this is the way to do it:
--several inches of hydroton (expanded clay balls, available at vivarium stores or hydroponics stores) or aquarium gravel (whichis a lot heavier than the clay balls). This is necessary for good drainage so the moisture doesn't sit at the bottom of the soil and rot the plant roots
--plastic screen mesh on top of that to separate the layers
--a few inches of the soil you have (I use coco fiber)

I do fine with a single compact flourescent light. I have a 13 watt light in my crestie viv which is working really well, much better than the lower wattage I had before.

Since the gargoyle is a bit more terrestrial, I use a plant that can get some height because if I used low-lying plants, it would sit on them. For the garg I have a pothos plant. I bought a fake vine and twisted that to get some height and shape and use that as a "frame" for the pothos plant to twine around. The garg likes to sit on the vine too.

Good luck,

Aliza

 

[DragonBeards]

I have 6 planted tanks: 2 for day geckos, 2 for fat tails, 1 for a crestie, and more recently, 1 for a new gargoyle. In general, this is the way to do it:
--several inches of hydroton (expanded clay balls, available at vivarium stores or hydroponics stores) or aquarium gravel (whichis a lot heavier than the clay balls). This is necessary for good drainage so the moisture doesn't sit at the bottom of the soil and rot the plant roots
--plastic screen mesh on top of that to separate the layers
--a few inches of the soil you have (I use coco fiber)

I do fine with a single compact flourescent light. I have a 13 watt light in my crestie viv which is working really well, much better than the lower wattage I had before.

Since the gargoyle is a bit more terrestrial, I use a plant that can get some height because if I used low-lying plants, it would sit on them. For the garg I have a pothos plant. I bought a fake vine and twisted that to get some height and shape and use that as a "frame" for the pothos plant to twine around. The garg likes to sit on the vine too.

Good luck,

Aliza

Thanks! Yeah, I have aquarium gravel actually on hand, left over from filling my 75g. Screen mesh shouldn't be too hard to find either. And I have a vine in my tank already, just draped among the branches. Thanks for the information! I'll have to see if any of my local nurseries have pothos.

 

[darkridder]

Rather then buying plants at a pet store, try going to the nursery, it will be one heck of alot cheaper. Most of the plants you find from pet stores will not be able to withstand the weight of an adult garg (it is not uncommon for an adult garg to be 60g). Here is a safe plant list of plants you can find at nurseries.
This list is a Rhac safe list. Make sure to double check each plant for stability and if you feed live feeders in the tank. Use with discretion.

Bromeliads:

*Aechmea fasciata (Urn plants/Silver Vase Bromeliad) – Large

*Billbergia nutans – (queens Tears) partial shade to bright indirect light

*Cryptanthus zonatus (Earth stars) – warm, humid, bright light

*Guzmania lingulata – warm, humid, bright light

*Nidularium – 12-15 inches, low to Med. Light

*Tillandsia – Air plant, warm & humid

*Vrisea splendens (sword bromeliads) Light shade


~Other Plants:

*Acalphya (copperleafs, chenille plants)

*Adiantum (maidenhair ferns) – cool and dry in winter

*Aglaonema (Chinese evergreens) – do well in low lights, highly recommended

*Alocasia (elephant ears) – must be kept moist, humid and warm, will either not do well or overgrow everything

*Asplenium (Bird’s nest fern) – moist soil, up to 3 feet high

*Bamboo - (live or dry) please the the Wikipedia article, way to much intresting info to list! Clippings will produice.

*Beaucarnea recurvata - (Ponytail Palms)

*Calathea zebrine - (Zebra plant) – moist moderate temps, moderate light

*Ceropegia woodii - (Rosary Vine,Hearts entangled, or String of hearts) Water thoroughly, and then allow the soil to completely dry out before watering again.

*Chlorophytum (spider plants) – average humidity, moderate light, should be allowed to get almost dry before watering

*Cissus (kangaroo vines, grape ivys) – no moist soil

*Codiaeum variegatum (often confused for Croton, because of this it is often labeled "croton" as a common name)

*Crassula ovata - (Jade Plant, Friendship tree or Money plant)Clippings will produice.

*Cyrtomium - (Holly ferns)

*Dracaena - (Dragon plants)

*Ficus (rubber trees, ornamental figs) should be washed of when dirty, do wellin spotlight, Use caution with any plant of the ficus family that has a "milky sap" when leafs/stems are broken, it is a skin and eye irratant.

*Maranta - (prayer plant) warm temps, high humidity

*Peperomia - (radiator plant) some in this family are an epiphyte or air plant. Clippings will generally produice.

*Radermachera sinica - (China Doll)very difficult to root, Growth slowers used by nurserys will grow fast and less bushy.

*Sanseveria - (Snake Plants)aethiopica,caniculata,kirkii pulchra, parva, pinguicula, sinularis, thyrsiflora & trifasciata

*Scindapsus (Pothos) - looks like philodendron, very hardy. Clippings will produice.

*Schefflera arboricola - (Umbrella Plant)

*Spathiphyllum - (peace lilies)

*Tradescantia zebrina - (wandering Jew/ spiderwart) Can cause skin iritation in humans when handeld frequently. Clippings will produice. Called inch plant because it can grow up to an inch a day!

*Pillow Moss- Moss is notoriously hard to keep alive and spread and requires a lot of light and water (probably too much than a Rhac would receive in the wild).


*****WARNING*****
These plants have been claimed by some to be harmful in tanks with live animals. Some have been use with little to no problems, others are dangerous. Please use with cation or not at all.

*Hedera helix - (Ivy, English Ivy) This plant is nontoxic to birds but is toxic to humans. It is unknown what would happen when and if a feeder insect were to eat it then a reptile were to eat it in exchange. I think it is best to avoid.

*Philodendron- All parts of the plant are poisonous, due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. Make sure to double check this vs. Pothos, they look alike and are generally mix together at most plant stores. Some say that this plant is safe but from my reading I do not agree they are for all herps.

*Dieffenbachia - (Dumbcane) All parts of the plant are poisonous, due to the presence of calcium oxalate crystals. . It has been known to cause the death of cats, dogs, and small children. This plant is considered a neurotoxin.
http://www.livingrainforest.org/abou...the-dumb-cane/


*Codiaeum variegatum and Croton look the same accept Croton (genus) Croton Oil is used as an active ingredient in facial chemical peels. Also in the past Croton oil was used in herbal medicine as a violent purgative. Some have claimed is has killed there pets.

This plant list is thanks to my good friend Sarah from www.Lunargecko.net , aka the garg queen