Gravid and ovulation definition help, please! <VBG>

[Scott&Nikki]

I didn't know that they sold thermostats that you can plug your UTHs into. That's interesting. Where did you get yours and how much was it?

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...e-1000-watt-electronic-thermostat-with-probe/

That seems to be the most popular. The ESU 1000 is the same product, so either work. Other also use the ZooMed 500R, but I have heard the Alife and ESU work a little better. Very easy to install. I got mine on eBay, so the product and shipping was about $25 total.

 

[crayolaskies]

Thanks, I'll look into it. :main_thumbsup:

 

[curiousKathy]

I bought mine at ReptileSupply.com under the heat source category. I have an ESU Reptile 1000 watt. It was on sale for $26.99 compared to the $40 I paid for my Repstat-500 (I don't like it as well) at Petco. Very easy to set up; just takes a bit to equilibrate the temps...well worth though!

Kathy

 

[spykerherps]

Great Info!! Marcia ROCKS:drummer::kiss2: :guitarist: :main_thumbsup:

 

[Sandra]

A female will ovulate continually throughout the breeding season, which generally runs from Jan-Feb through Sept-Oct

Is it possible to have a female ovulating at April? Because I'm pretty sure mine does, although I'm not completely confident. I can see the pink circle in the middle of her belly quite clearly, there aren't any other organs that could look like that, are there?

I'm starting to cool my female down now (wish me good luck!). She hasn't eaten anything at all for some days, and I dropped the temps 2ºC yesterday and another 2ºC today. I've never brumated any reptile, so any tips you can think of would be useful.

The male and her are already in different rooms, in fact they have never been in the same room. I've been waiting since february for her to start eating. I don't know what else can I do. She is already two years old so I guess I could breed her, but I don't like the idea.

 

[BalloonzForU]

Sandra the months Marcia has noted are the typical start and finish of the season. A female can start at any time with a little help. I started my 2007 season in Oct of 06' with a handfull of females.

 

[Strike2]

I learned a mass amount from this thread, thanks for the knowledge.

 

[Sandra]

My gecko is now at 80F in the hot side and 71 in the cool side. How much I need to drop the temperatures to see some change in her behaviour? She is still very active and I'm afraid of seeing her wasting energy in this condition, when she has been two whole months without eating.

I think that the next time this happens I will breed her before getting to this, even if I have to throw the eggs away when she lays, because she's driving me crazy

I think I've hardly talked about anything other than this in the forums since it started, sorry, I'll try to participate more.

 

[Sandra]

Sorry for posting again about this topic.

I'm raising the temps again because I noticed that it's not cold enough to be able to hibernate her. These last days we have had a nice weather and temps won't go below 70ºF now that spring has started. I won't be able to brumate her and I'm only making her unconfortable by dropping the temps.

What would you recommend me? To keep waiting and see if she starts to eat? Breed her to the male even in this condition? (she is not in a bad shape at all, but it has been a long time since she has eaten regularly). Any other alternatives? I would take her to the vet but I don't think it's a medical problem, and I propably know more than my vet about this species :/ I might though, if there's any medicament that could make her hungry or stop ovulating.

 

[curiousKathy]

Sandra,

I have forgotten if anyone has suggested Marcia's slurry or Repti-aide to you? They will not increase weight, but they can increase appetite sometimes and entice your girl to eat. Do you have a scale? Have you been keeping track of her weight? Has she lost weight?

My girls aren't eating either, but they are not losing weight. So I keep offering them a variety of food, but I am waiting for them to decide when they will eat. I have seen Tiki standing over her mealworm bowl, but I haven't seen her eat any. And the last time I cleaned poop from Angel's tank (they are VERY tiny) there looked like there was a cricket leg in it!!! I was very excited!!!! So I am watching them, but waiting for them to decide when they are ready. I just make sure they have gutloaded fresh food for when they do decide they are hungry!

Don't know if this helped, but at least you know you are not the only one in the same situation!! VBG I am not going to breed my females, but I do look forward to ovulation being over!

Kathy

 

[Sandra]

I don't want to breed her either, but I may if she doesn't start eating soon. I have a scale and I'm keeping track of her, but she hasn't lost too much weight (only a few grams, otherwise I would have run to the vet) in these two months.

I'll keep offering food too... She has eaten some times during the ovulation (there's one night that she ate 10 mealworms at once) but she eats one night and the rest of the week or two weeks she shows no interest in food.

I know there's many people in the same situation, that's not good These little buggers are always making us worry.

 

[Rejoice in the Lord]

cooling to stop ovulation

I've been following this thread for quite some time now. I have found it very informative and helpful. I've still got just a few questions about cooling.

My little girl is almost a year old, and has hardly eaten since January. Other than that, everything seems to be fine with her and her set-up. When I looked at her belly a few weeks back, she had the pink spot that indicates ovulation. April 20, I slowly began dropping the temperature in her tank. April 27 (the day the temperature got down to 78) the pink area was very small, and now the pink is gone. It hasn't even been two weeks since I began dropping her temperature.

When the pink is gone, does that mean she is no longer ovulating?

As soon as she is no longer ovulating, can I begin raising the temps slowly, or does she need to be at 78 for at least two weeks first?

At what point can I begin offering her food again? (I am assuming when her substrate temperature is back at 88, but just thought I would check)

Is there a trick in raising the temperatures to keep her from going right back into ovulation? Like, if I keep her tank on the 88 side of the range, might that help?

 

[curiousKathy]

I just wanted to add my experience with Angel...

I have had her since mid January (that's almost 4 months!!!)....she ate for the first time a couple evenings ago. I watched her eat a cricket. I am not messing with her temps, I am letting her decide when she will eat although I have been watching her weight carefully. If I remember what Marcia posted earlier in this post...you have to be careful dropping the temp as it can cause even more problems with digestion. I don't feel experienced enought to mess with the temps so I have been waiting her out. I make sure there is always gutloaded mealworms available 24/7 and give her other varieties as well. I started with horn worms, wax worms and crickets. Just keep offering and counting and searching the tank. I think Marcia also mentioned that dropping the temps is not a guarantee that it will work. After bringing the temps back up she may start ovulating again. I prefer the easy way; messing with the temps is way to complicated and risky for me!

Just my opinion...

Kathy

 

[Rejoice in the Lord]

The deed has already been done; her temps have been at 78 for four days now. Since I think she is no longer ovulating, I want to know if it is okay for me to go ahead and begin raising the temps, or if I need to keep her cool for at least two weeks first.

Just wanted to clarify.

Kathy, I would be interested on hearing how and when your leos come out of ovulation without a temp drop.

LittleLouie

 

[curiousKathy]

The deed has already been done; her temps have been at 78 for four days now. Since I think she is no longer ovulating, I want to know if it is okay for me to go ahead and begin raising the temps, or if I need to keep her cool for at least two weeks first.

Just wanted to clarify.

Kathy, I would be interested on hearing how and when your leos come out of ovulation without a temp drop.

LittleLouie

I have emailed Marcia (as one of my girls I bought from her!) of Golden Gate Geckos; she mentioned she has some females doing the same thing. She suggested just watching the girls weight to make sure they aren't losing too much. Ovulation is a cycle and I can especially see it in Angel...her mood changes. When she is ovulating she hides and is not social; when she is not cycling she is very social and wants to be held and comes out and moves about her tank. I haven't figured out her pattern yet because I haven't had time to go back and see where I posted the first time. But I would estimate about 2-3 weeks of nonsocial to 1-2 weeks of social. She became interested in eating during her social stage. So I haven't got them out of their ovulation cycle...they just keep going in and out and eat while they are out. Did that make sense?

Kathy