Heating concerns in cold ambient temps

[Leo_Fan]

Hi all,

Im new to the world of gecko's and reptiles in general. Im looking to get 2 Leo’s in the upcoming weeks and housing them in a 20g tank. I was planning on heating one end (about a third) with a 12"x12" UTH on a thermostat for the hot side. The only thing Im concerned and unsure about is how to keep the temperatures at the cool end correct. Im in the UK so the ambient room temp varies from about 55F in winter to 75F in summer. Will the heat from the warm side transfer across and heat up the cool side to a sufficiently? because I dont think it would do the Leo's any good if it was left at room temp.
In your experience what would be the best way to keep the cool end warm enough? maybe a second UTH and thermostat?

Im planning to use either slate tile or reptile carpet if that factors in.
Thanks for any assistance you can give me.

Matt

 

[ReptileMan27]

First off welcome to the site . Belly heat is best for heating leos, UTHs work great for leos, I use several and love them. Slate rock is good and natural for leos but doesent really work with UTHs, if you use slate you will need to use overhead heat. The repti carpet will work fine with the UTHs but I have been hearing complaints about it latley, apparently leos can get their claws caught in the carpet. Just place the UTH on the one side of the cage(warm side), that will be fine for creating a warm and cool side.

 

[PaulSage]

Welcome to the forums, Matt

My advice would be to get the enclosure set up and start monitoring the surface temperatures on both sides of the tank. Chances are that the cool side will be fine in the warmer months, but when the room temperature drops you might need to add an additional heat source to keep the cool end a bit warmer.

I hope that helps!

 

[Stitch]

I understand your concern for wanting to keep the cool end warm, but you need to remember that they need an area to cool off when they get too warm. 75 on the cool end is plenty, so maybe in the winter you can place a 40 watt bulb over head to warm the cool side to 75. You just have to keep a close eye on the temps at both ends if you decide to do so.

I also agree with Paul that you should set the cage up and play with the temps to get them right BEFORE introducing the leos.

Don't forget that sometimes two leos won't get along so be prepaired to seperate them if need be.

Good luck!

 

[Leopardbreeder]

A 12x12 UTH doesnt really need a thermostat, but if you really want to be safe, use one. They can help!

 

[krnggangpe94]

Hi,
About the ambient temps. Can someone recommend me a thermometer that is cheap and works well with a probe that takes the floor temp and ambient temp?

 

[Leopardbreeder]

I have those for all the shelves on my rack, I really like them.


http://www.petmountain.com/product/thermometers/511260/zoo-med-digital-terrarium-thermometer.html

 

[Leo_Fan]

Thanks for the warm welcome :smile:

Really appreciate all your input, much more reliable than my local pet shop which said to use 3 UV lights to keep the whole tank at 80-85F and use calcium sand...
Think Ive got all the info I need to get started now. Going to get everything up and running to make sure its all fine before I get them.

And thanks to krnggangpe94 for his question because that was going to be my next one :main_thumbsup:

 

[Stitch]

A 12x12 UTH doesnt really need a thermostat, but if you really want to be safe, use one. They can help!

If you don't use a rheostat or thermostat to control the UTH the manufacturer cannot be held liable because of missuse. Read the directions before you use any type of heating devices.

I use the UTH's from ZooMed for the 20 gallon tanks and they are smaller then 12x12. If I don't use a R-stat or T-stat to control them, then they will heat the bottom of the cage above 100 degrees.

 

[Leopardbreeder]

^^ Thats not true although it is posible with misuse ^^

The UTH have built in "thermostats" if you will, that do not allow the UTH to go OVER 95*f. Although that is true about the liability, the rare cases of malfunction where caused by mis-use by the operator. One way to mess on up it to bend it very far, or using a substrate that is greater than 1/2-1 inch. I have never had any problems with UTH's on my tanks, and I now use flex-watt with again, no problems. I do understand what you are saying, but with responsible use, they are very reliable.

 

[Stitch]

^^ Thats not true although it is posible with misuse ^^
The UTH have built in "thermostats" if you will, that do not allow the UTH to go OVER 95*f. Although that is true about the liability, the rare cases of malfunction where caused by mis-use by the operator. One way to mess on up it to bend it very far, or using a substrate that is greater than 1/2-1 inch. I have never had any problems with UTH's on my tanks, and I now use flex-watt with again, no problems. I do understand what you are saying, but with responsible use, they are very reliable.

The UTH's DO NOT have T-stats built in (at least I have yet to see one), there is just a limit as to how hot they can get before they malfunction. I use paper towels as substrate just to let you know. I had about 6 layers of paper towels over top the UTH without using a R-stat to control it. Believe me the temp gun read over 100 degrees in certain areas. Now I definitely can understand that some people will call that misuse and I would not argue with them. I just didn't realize I didn't have one for that tank at that time so I had to use the UTH without one.

P.S. If it's not true but possible, then it must be true.

 

[Leopardbreeder]

If you would read the instructions on the package, it says that there is a built-in regulator. Although its not fool-proof, I have never heard of problems with newer UTH. Also, when I said that "its not true but possible" I meant possible with misuse. Your temp gun might have 100+, but the paper towels where acting like an oven, the air between the layers was constantly being heated. An oven doesn't heat to say 450* it heats to (example) 250* and continues to raise the ambient temp. because there is no air flow the air is just being heated and heated, untill it reaches its final temp.

 

[PaulSage]

Use a reliable thermostat and check it routinely with a thermometer. Cutting corners and trying to save money or time can lead to disastrous results. Finding out that a failed thermostat has killed or crippled your geckos is NOT worth the money saved by playing with fire. ANY heating element should be regulated by a thermostat and checked routinely with a thermometer. Neglecting to do so is just skating on thin ice. Don't think "it won't happen to me." It happens. No one is immune.