HELP: Leopard Gecko not eating (details inside)

[xfactor78]

hey guys,

Just registered, well long story short I'm babysitting my neighbors leo. I've babysat him before and now he isn't eating anything at all. It's been like this for the past 3-4 days. I fed him once since I've had him and the next morning I woke up and checked his tank I believe he threw up the worms. Anyways, he's about 3-4 years old, and his diet mainly consists of mealworms. Thats all my neighbor feeds and gives him. I've tried dusting and non-dusted worms and he just isn't eating any. I don't know what to do, and I don't want him to starve to death, any suggestions or questions will be greatly appreciated.

Brendan

 

[xfactor78]

Here is a couple pics of his housing. He's never used a moist hide so me neighbor said he doesn't give him one. He's in a 10 gallon btw.

 

[xfactor78]

anybody?

 

[Crasher_Insane]

What are the temps on the UTH? I they're below 90 that may account for his not wanting to eat. (because it's not warm enough to digest). Either that or just the change from one place to another.Leos have relatively slow metabolisms and can go weeks without eating. While this isn't healthy unless he is losing weight very quickly he's doing alright.
Do you just feed him from a dish? Have you tried dropping them in front of him and moving them around with tongs? With my leo if he doesn't focus on the insect and start following it's movement with his head, it means he's not interested in eating. So this might be an indicator of whether he even has an appetite.

 

[LizMarie]

I think he might be using an over head heat lamp instead of a UTH but I could be wrong.

Can you tell us what your warm and cool side temps are?

 

[xfactor78]

I think he might be using an over head heat lamp instead of a UTH but I could be wrong.

Can you tell us what your warm and cool side temps are?

I'm using an undertank heater that was given to me, the light there is just for the cool side, but the cool side readings are about 70, and the warm side is about 80. I believe it's supposed to be 90ish on the warm side? Should I move the lamp over to the warm side so it warms up more?

What are the temps on the UTH? I they're below 90 that may account for his not wanting to eat. (because it's not warm enough to digest). Either that or just the change from one place to another.Leos have relatively slow metabolisms and can go weeks without eating. While this isn't healthy unless he is losing weight very quickly he's doing alright.
Do you just feed him from a dish? Have you tried dropping them in front of him and moving them around with tongs? With my leo if he doesn't focus on the insect and start following it's movement with his head, it means he's not interested in eating. So this might be an indicator of whether he even has an appetite.

I feed him with chopsticks. Anyways I try drop it in front, hold it in front of him, put it in the bowl, dust them, have them not-dusted, everything. He's not showing any interest in them. The first day he moved to my room he ate so I don't know if the move is causing him to not eat.


Any other suggestions would be helpful

 

[leoman777]

why dont you try using another feeder like crickets

 

[xfactor78]

why dont you try using another feeder like crickets

I've fed him crickets the last time I had him and had a terrible experience with them. They smell terrible, are annoying, and he's not great at catching his food, even if it's a mealworm he has a hard time eating it when it's moving around in the tank. So crickets are harder to feed, specially since I suck with chopsticks. I'd like to keep it to worms as much as I can. Crickets are pretty much the very last option. I'd like to stay away from them as much as I can.

I also moved the light to the warm side of the tank to try bring the temperatures up a bit, hope that helps a bit.

 

[LizMarie]

I'm using an undertank heater that was given to me, the light there is just for the cool side, but the cool side readings are about 70, and the warm side is about 80. I believe it's supposed to be 90ish on the warm side? Should I move the lamp over to the warm side so it warms up more?

Sounds like a good idea.. it should be in the 90's I personally like 94 but others go as high as 97...

 

[xfactor78]

Sounds like a good idea.. it should be in the 90's I personally like 94 but others go as high as 97...

So I moved the light and it hasn't done much, still in the low 80s:main_thumbsdown:. I don't know what else I can do to get it up, the UTH doesn't have any settings.

 

[pipedream]

When in a pinch, I have used a cheap plant grow bulb to get temps up. They get super hot so they can not be directly on top of the tank unless you like gecko bacon. I kept mine around 2 feet high off the top of a tank when we had unexpected hatchlings.

(It's also a very cheap solution)


I'm sure someone else will chime in with more appropriate measures.

 

[Gonser]

Sounds like a good idea.. it should be in the 90's I personally like 94 but others go as high as 97...

Tremper says never go above 91 degrees. I know many here go into the mid 90s on their warm sides, but I try to follow Tremper's suggested range of 86-90. The man knows what he is doing! 50 years experience...

I also feel it has not been emphasized enough that a thermostat should be used to control the UTH. A dimmer is NOT accurate, nor are lights. A good thermostat unit is a wise addition. It takes a while to get it adjusted into the right range. I keep my warm side at 87-90 and the thermostat, once set, will keep it right in there. It is also very important to calibrate the range of the thermostat with a really good digital thermometer unit, placing the probe directly onto the warm hide surface for periods of a few hours until you get the temp adjusted where you want it. I have found that using reptile carpet is much better for temp adjusting as opposed to sand (which is also not good anyway for impaction reasons).

Not sure why everyone is keeping their warms sides in the 95-97 range.....plus when the gecko goes to the cool side of 72-76, coming from a warm side of 97 is quite a shock, while coming from a warm side of 87 is more adaptable for the animal. Dissenting viewpoints welcome. I will start another threead about this temp issue.

 

[xfactor78]

Tremper says never go above 91 degrees. I know many here go into the mid 90s on their warm sides, but I try to follow Tremper's suggested range of 86-90. The man knows what he is doing! 50 years experience...

I also feel it has not been emphasized enough that a thermostat should be used to control the UTH. A dimmer is NOT accurate, nor are lights. A good thermostat unit is a wise addition. It takes a while to get it adjusted into the right range. I keep my warm side at 87-90 and the thermostat, once set, will keep it right in there. It is also very important to calibrate the range of the thermostat with a really good digital thermometer unit, placing the probe directly onto the warm hide surface for periods of a few hours until you get the temp adjusted where you want it. I have found that using reptile carpet is much better for temp adjusting as opposed to sand (which is also not good anyway for impaction reasons).

Not sure why everyone is keeping their warms sides in the 95-97 range.....plus when the gecko goes to the cool side of 72-76, coming from a warm side of 97 is quite a shock, while coming from a warm side of 87 is more adaptable for the animal. Dissenting viewpoints welcome. I will start another threead about this temp issue.

This isn't my own leopard gecko so I don't plan on spending anything for housing upgrades. But I had the temps up to 90 today on the warm with the light on so I should be fine.


UPDATE: Carl ate two mealworms today so he is doing better and hopefully not starving. Thanks for the help!:main_thumbsup:

 

[LizMarie]

That's great his body temp was probably too low. You don't have to worry he won't starve from not eating for a few days, imagine having an ovulating female that doesn't want to eat for weeks or eats one worms a week, ugh. Now thats frustrating, lol.

 

[Ehatcher]

Temps up in the mid 90's are fine. Some breeders on here use upwards of 97-98º with great success.

Unless the gecko is dropping weight extremely fast, if not then it is fine. It will eat when it is ready to eat. :main_thumbsup:

 

[Snowy & Petra de Gecko]

Temp

What is the temp in the room?

If the room temp is cool then, put some aluminum foil on the three sides of the tank (left, right and back).

Or put a towel on the back of the tank.


Crickets do stink when they die and that could be a problem.

So while you are Leo-sitting, try to get the tank warmer.