Help!! Please for a newbie

[graeme75]

Hi

I just got my first leopard gecko (aged around 3-4 months) last Saturday (May 10th). I have a decent sized viv, a UV light, a Ceramic heat lamp which is controlled by a thermostat (its set to 33 degrees c). The substrate is kitchen roll. The problem is he is yet to eat and/or pass any wastage.
I was advised to increase the humidity and give him some luke warm baths, which I have done but he has yet to eat 1 cricket!!! (Black crickets size 3). I was also advised to put him in a smaller environment with the crickets but he does not even acknowledge they are there. Should I be worried? The pet store has offered to replace him but I want that to be the last resort. Can anyone offer any advice please?

Thanks in advance

Graeme

 

[fallen_angel]

Geckos can take up to a week or more to get acclimated into new homes. I would give him another week to get more confortable and situated before I would worry too much (as long as he doesn't start losing too much weight).

Does he have a moist and dry hide, the moist one being on the heated side? What temp. is the cool side? You also do not need a UV light for a leopard gecko, since they are nocturnal. Perhaps he isn't eating due to the light?

You can also try buying some mealworms and leaving them in a dish for him to see if he eats those..

 

[graeme75]

Thanks for the quick response.

I have a dry hide and a moist hide (upturned plastic dish filled with moss) This is at the cool side, should it be near the heat lamp. I was advised to have the UV light on 12-14 hours a day! Is this not correct?

I will try mealworms, (small ones?)

Regards
Graeme

 

[fallen_angel]

You are very welcome The moist hide should be on the warm side so that it gets nice and humid (otherwise it's just cold and wet) The dry hide should be on the cool side.

Many pet stores misinform people (i.e. tell them to get a UV light or house them on sand) about leopard geckos. Leos do not need a UV light because they are nocturnal. The UV light's purpose is to help a reptile produce the vitamin D3, but since a leo is nocturnal and wouldn't normally be out in the sun, we supplement their food with Calcium that contains D3 instead. The UV light could very well be the reason your gecko is not eating, and I'm sure he doesn't come out much when the light is on, either. If you would like to be able to see your gecko at night, you can buy an infrared bulb (60 watts for 20 gallon long cage) for nightime heating/veiwing.

Small mealworms will be perfect.

 

[spykerherps]

Leopard geckos are nocturnal. so in the wild they would be hiding and sleeping in burrows and crevices. so they wouldn't get much if any natural uv exposure. So no need for the light. he may start to eat more when light is reduced. more natural for them waking up at dusk and starting to hunt in the evening when its al little cooler and darker.also try heating her from the bottom with a heat mat or heat tape.

GOOD LUCK
Edited: I didn't mean this to be a double post from what fallen angel said was working on it at the same time and they got to it first < wish I could type faster.spell better.

 

[fallen_angel]

Or under tank heater (UTH).. those need a thermostat, though. They are preferred, but if the temp. is 88-90 degrees (F) at the gecko's belly level, then the overhead heat is fine too

 

[Golden Gate Geckos]

I agree. Leopard Geckos thrive better with under tank heat rather than a heat lamp. They need belly heat, with the surface temperature around 32-33 degrees C. They do not need any UV light.

Give your baby some time to adjust to it's new home, and as long as the enclosure is providing the correct environmental conditions it should start eating.

 

[graeme75]

Hi Guys

Thanks for all the info . I shall knock off the UV light and purchase and under tank heater (what exactly am I looking for). I will purchase some mealworms and an infrared bulb. I shall switch the hides around. I hope this works. Any more advice? If i use kitchen roll as substrate how many sheets thick should it be?

 

[gothra]

Just make sure when you switch to heating mat, you need to check the surface temperature on the ground. Target is 32-33 degrees Celcius. I hope your little guy will eat for you soon; you are a great owner!

p.s. If you try mealworms, you can put them in a dish and leave it overnight. Your gecko may eat when no one is around and all the lights are off.

 

[graeme75]

Just an update, got mealworms and heat mat today and LCD thermometer. However the gecko regurgitated a cricket today which 1) shows he ate something but 2) should I be worried about him regurgitating. It was like a cat with a furball.
Thanks for all the advice and words of encouragement. I shall let you know how he gets on

 

[fallen_angel]

I don't want to scare you, but you may want to take your leo to a herp vet, because regurgitation is not a good sign (but I am not sure what it means? maybe you can make a phone call first and get some help that way, too)

 

[graeme75]

Hi

Just an update on what's going on. Last night the gecko passed some waste, I have never been so happy to see gecko poo :main_thumbsup:
as this is the first time he has passed something since i have had him. It was solid and dark in colour which I am told is good.

He still does not seem to be eating much, I put a mealworm to his mouth and no go, tried it on the end of tweezers and no go. Placed some in a dish in his viv and still no go. I will perservere. The pet store have offered me a replacement but I really don't want to part with him unless I really have to.

My other question is regarding the heating of the viv. I have an exo-terra viv (45cm x 45cm x 45 cm). The substrate is two layers of kitchen roll. I have an overhead ceramic heater linked to a cobrastat set at 33 degrees c. (basically covers backs left corner) I also bought a heatmat which I placed in tank under substrate in right hand corner. The heatmat does not seem to get very warm though. So basically the back half of the viv is heated. I have placed a plastic tub with moss in at the heated half.

At the cool side of the viv are a dry hide a water dish and food dish. I have a hygrometer and it rarely goes above 50% even with spraying every day. I bought an exo-terra LCD thermometer and it said the cold side of the viv was 22 degrees.

Can anyone please point me in the right direction regarding set up if this seems wrong. I don;t want the gecko to suffer for my lack of knowlege

Regards
Graeme

 

[Stitch]

Regurgitating can be a sign of low temperatures. The heat mat should have a sticky side, this side should mount under neath the tank and be controlled by a T-stat or R-stat. I personally feel that there is no need for the ceramic heat emitter if you are using a UTH.

If kitchen rolls are paper towels, great.

Do not force feed the gecko this only stresses him more. It can take weeks for the gecko to get comfortable. Stressing him will only prolong this.

 

[bubblez825]

Try the Golden Gate Gecko Slurry. It has nutrisions that the gecko needs since it is not eating. DO NOT force feed the gecko, just put a little drop on its nose and it should lick it up. Geckos like it.
http://www.geckoforums.net/showthread.php?t=19356

 

[lepgeckosrock]

My newest addittion took 11 days to finally eat so as long as it has a fat tail just give it some time I know that it worries you because it drove me nuts waiting for mine to eat but all will be ok just be patient.

 

[graeme75]

Again thanks for the info. What constitutes a fat tail for a baby gecko?
Shall I send a picture?

Regards
Graeme

 

[Mel&Keith]

You can upload a photo and post it here. Regurgitation can be caused by stress, improper housing, or parasites. Since you're gecko is still getting used to it's new environment I would tend to think that it's the latter two. It sounds like your only housing issue is the heat. Make sure the UTH they sold you is the proper size for the tank you have and get a rheostat to control the temperature. Once you get the surface temps corrected the gecko should be less stressed.

 

[graeme75]

Hi

I have uploaded a photo. I hope everything is in order as he does not seem ill and is quite active and alert and very mobile when being handled

Regards
Graeme

 

[Mel&Keith]

He is definitely thin but not deathly thin for that age. Hopefully when you get his belly heat corrected and he settles in he'll pack on the grams!