High Yello Leopard Gecko refuses to eat

Jozsef

New Member
Messages
2
Greetings,

As you may be my last hope I'm writting to you in connection to my 1.5yrs old male high-yellow leopard gecko. Last monday (10.09 -12) he shed normally and eaten his skin. Since then he refuses to eat anything. He always hides never shows himself, and the femalse albino leopard gecko 1yrs old, never stay where the male is at.
The vivarium is 58cm wide, 35cm tall, 40cm deep. The subrate is a 5mm width wooden floor covering. There's a water dish with everyday fresh skin warm (~24°C) water; also 24/7 Reptile micro calcium. There're 2 hiding places, one in a rock and another under a tree which doesn't have any loose parts. Lightning is a 20Watts spot light which grants 31-32°C temps during the day, and 25-27°C during the night. Right so this would be my vivarium setup.

About the female gecko:
She's fine, eating well something like 10 crickets, or 15-20 silk works every other day (max every other day, sometimes she eats daily). She's always keeping her distance from the male ever since the male stopped eating.

The Male symptoms:
- Doesn't eat since 10.09 -12. Didn't really loose much weight, maybe his tail ecome thicker with 1mm. Before it had 16mm diameter, while currently its around 14.5mm.
- Even if I try to force feed him, he spits out the food.
- He got medicines from the vet along with a injection, but slowly he refuses to eat also the medicine.
- After he ate the medicine I happened to check his throat and I could see the medicine deep in his throat. Like He didn't (or coudln't) swallow it.
- He nearly has no poop. Only 2 times since last Monday. Both of these was some really light gray, soft along with a really huge amount of liquid. No sign of urate as long as I could see.

There were really no changes to their vivarium recently. He shed on last Monday between 11:30 A.M. and 12:00 A.M. normally. There were no signes of anything that could went wrong, but ever since then he stopped eating. Before that he used to eat approximately 10 crickets, and 5 to 10 silk worms.

The feeding times were always between 4 to 6 P.M. Once a week the crickets has been sprayed with JBL MicroCalcium, and has been fed with JBL Terra Cricket (for vitamins) 24hrs before feeding.

I've been to a VET already but they has no clue what might be wrong. At the place where I've bought him, the other leopard geckos produce similar symptoms as mine, but they're in a lot worse condition. The Vet told that they will not surive, about mine she had no idea.

Lets see what else informations could I spare with you guys...
- There's no sign of any infection from the outside. His claws and teeth are strong (Trust me, he bit me pretty badly the other day). His nose is normal, along with his ears. His tongue has a bright red part on the very end, but its the same with the female. This is approximately 2mm wide, then the tongue turns pink.
 

SORROW89

New Member
Messages
80
Location
NJ
Do you mean 31-32C in the whole tank? They should have a cool side and a warm side. I never heard of that spray calcium. I wonder if that works. Maybe someone else will know?
 

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,590
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
Leopard geckos do better with under tank heat than heat lamps. The ambient air temperature doesn't mater as much as a warm place to lie on to digest. You might want to pick one up to see if it helps. Bright light can also stress them out.

I would separate the two geckos until you figure out what's going on. You don't want the female to get sick too if there is something sinister at play. Also, if you keep two Leo's together you should have two warm and two cool hides so they can regulate their temperature away from one another if they want.

How old is you gecko? How much does it weigh? Something most definitely could be wrong but one or two weeks is not an incredibly long time for an adult gecko to go without eating. Some go off food when when the days start getting shorter to prepare to brumate.
 

whitelight15

New Member
Messages
10
Location
Lansing, MI
Are you force feeding him crickets, or liquid diet?

Just in case, you might want to think about separating the two geckos until he starts eating more. If the issue can spread, it would be awful if the female got sick too :(
 

Jozsef

New Member
Messages
2
- No I don't mean 32°C in the whole tank. 32°C on the warm side and 29-30°C at the cool side.
- There's a warm rock they usually lie on when digesting. Or sometimes go into it and sleep during the day.
- There's no bright light, the Spot is rather soft.
- I can't really force feed him with crickets or silk worms since he'll just spit the food off. I got a sweet pasta from the vet, and at the beginning he used to lick it off from his lips now hes stopping with that too.

The calcium is not spray! Its a normal calcium called MicroCalcium from JBL. Exactly: http://www.petnet.hu/termek/JBL_MicroCalcium_100g-112-4002
The other is: http://www.reptilica.de/product_info.php/product/JBL-TerraCrick-Futter-fuer-Futterinsekten

The crickets get poured with the Calcium once a week, and there's calcium in their tank 24/7 on the cool side.
 

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,590
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
Bright light, or any white light (even if its soft) can stress them out. Under tank heaters are recommended. Most leos in their environment come out at dusk and lie on rocks that radiate heat stored from the day. This is why UTH are important and better than overhead lights. If you insist on using overhead lights I would at least go purchase a red night bulb so the geckos can feel a bit more secure.

I'd love to hear what others think, but IMO Geckos are hardy and can handle fasting periods in the wild when food just isn't readily available. I would not be force feeding or feeding any special diet after 10 days of not eating. I would probably wait at least 2 weeks probably 3, if the gecko was otherwise acting normally, before panicking. There could be a normal and natural reason for your guy skipping food and force feeding prematurely could do much more harm than good.
 

sausage

BSc AMAS
Messages
1,548
Location
Winchester, UK
I agree with every thing said so far.

1. Change to a UTH, it will only improve digestion and their cheap to buy and cheaper to run then lights. bonus all round.

2. hes just shed so hes more then likely full. if he hasn't digested the big skin meal properly and pooped then he wont wont to eat.

3. if it were me id weigh him on some digital scales and just watch him for a few weeks. weighing him again every week.
hopefully hell just start to eat again by him self or if it starts too loose weight then take him to a vet.
 

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