Newcomer looking for friendly tips!

[Baum2044]

Hi there! looking into getting a gecko and wanted to double check what i have so far is right and clear up a few questions i have. any and all advice is appreciated!
first off my set-up is a 20L tank with a hide at either end and a moist hide. i also have a water bowl and im going to be using paper towels as the substrate.

I have a 30-40 gallon rated uth and wanted to know what temperature the thermometer probe should be reading at the bottom of the tank for belly heat? around 90? and the cool side should be around what? also im resting my tank on a wooden floor, will the little knobs be good enough to release heat from the uth or should i jack it up more and if so what would be suggested to do so?

also, since im using repashy, should i dust feeders everyday and then not have to worry about calcium w/o d3 in a bowl in the tank? should i still gutload since im using repashy?

im planning on getting a gecko, possibly two (if i do ill get both females) at the daytona reptile expo coming up in august. any suggested breeders? any breeders that arent exactly recommended?

how much am i looking at spending on them? do they sell lots of juveniles and adults there? I particularly like geckos that are yellow with lots of orange on the tail (shct?) and plain orange geckos (tangs?). ive been to 3 other reptile expos a few years back but never really payed much attention to the leos

im sorry for all the questions but i would like to get this right on the first try and not be irresponsible about this, Ive been creeping on the forum for about a month or maybe two and ive had bearded dragons and aquatic turtles in the past so i have a little experiance keeping reptiles but when i moved i had to rehome them. anyways like i said any and all advice is appreciated!

 

[LeopardShade]

what temperature the thermometer probe should be reading at the bottom of the tank for belly heat?

The warm side temperature should read 90-94 F. Anywhere slightly above or below this is fine, but optimal temperatures are typically within this gradient.

the cool side should be around what?

The cool side can be room temperature.

will the little knobs be good enough to release heat from the uth

Should be fine as far as I know. Both my tanks are resting on plywood boards on top of the "little knobs" and everything has been fine.

since im using repashy, should i dust feeders everyday

Repashy is an all-in-one calcium and multivitamin supplement intended to be used with every feeding. Therefore, there is no need to provide additional calcium.

should i still gutload

Gutloading is always a must, no matter what the supplement. It ensures that the feeder itself is filled with nutrients and not just dusted with them.

im planning on getting a gecko, possibly two (if i do ill get both females)

any suggested breeders?

I would strongly advise that if you do end up getting multiple geckos, that they be housed individually. When housing multiple geckos together, you need to monitor a multitude of things; that no bullying, violence, competition for food, or dominance is being displayed amongst the animals, each gecko in the enclosure is getting enough to eat, as well as the health of the geckos. You also need to keep in mind a few things; that the size and weight of the geckos being housed together is similar (to prevent dominance or bullying) each gecko you plan on introducing receives a proper quarantine period to ensure proper health, and that housing multiple animals together can lead to greater risk of disease transmission in the animals due to the increased likelihood of contact with feces. So can it be done? Sure, of course, taking the precautions in mind that is. Do I recommend it? No.

And I would strongly, strongly advise that you hold off of breeding for a few years. Breeding takes lots of knowledge, research, and most importantly, experience. Take pleasure in owning the geckos as pets first, get to know their behaviors before rushing into breeding. It is a big commitment and the importance of not rushing into it cannot be understated. You could end up with more than you can handle.

how much am i looking at spending on them? do they sell lots of juveniles and adults there?

Each morph carries its own respective price tag. Some of the newer morphs out there, or ones that are huge combo morphs tend to carry hefty prices. At the shows I've been to, there is often a mix of everything, adults, subadults, and juveniles. Judging by what you've said you are attracted to, you may want to look for nice, orange Super Hypo Tangerine Carrot Tails or Tangerine morphs such as Sunglows. They are quite popular and should not be hard to find.

And don't worry about asking questions. I'm glad you want to get everything right and make sure the animal is well taken care of. Hope I can be of some help.

 

[Jaiden23]

Looks like LeopardShade covered just about everything, but I'll just add a few more points.

If you don't already have a thermostat for your UTH then I would really recommend that you pick one up. UTH's can get upwards of 100F if you use them on their own. If you're looking for a cheaper alternative you can use a rheostat, or a lamp dimmer. Those just need to be monitored and adjusted more often as the room temperature fluctuates.

Personally I still leave some calcium without d3 in the tank, even though I dust the feeders daily. Occasionally your leo may not eat and I just feel better if I know they're still getting calcium. That's really just kind of a 'whatever you prefer' situation.

I can't speak about the Daytona Reptile Expo, but prices really vary at the Midwest Reptile Expo in Indianapolis. I've seen normals and snows go for as low as $20 and tangs in the $60-$120 range. And of course the newer morphs selling for several hundred dollars. Alot of it depends on the quality of color, genetics and the reputation of the breeder. From what I've seen, most breeders usually sell their leos a bit cheaper than what they normally sell them for off of their websites.

 

[Baum2044]

Okay, good stuff! Thank you for the great input! I'm probably gonna just start with one but if they're anything like other reptiles you never end up with just one lol. If I do I have a spare tank and can keep them seperated, not looking to breed right now I'm just fascinated with reptiles and think they're extremely cool to obeserve and interact with on occasion. I did think of another question of like some input on thoug,
What's the best way you've found to Gutload the feeders? I know a lot of people do things differently so I'd like to hear what everyone else does
Thanks!

 

[mango+cola]

I feed my geckos mealworms, so we keep them all in the fridge because they last longer. 24 hours before feeding, we take 40 mealworms out of the fridge and put them in a container with 2 flukers products (one is like an oatmeal substance but has lots of other good stuff in it, and the other is the "orange cube"), then we leave this out of the fridge which gives them time to wake up and eat, then 24 hours later these ones go into the tank and the process starts all over again!

You choice on how many you want to gutload, but we bring out 40 (20 per gecko).

 

[LeopardShade]

What's the best way you've found to Gutload the feeders?

I personally use a variety of things to gut load my mealworms with. Carrots, green beans, apples, and potatoes are common staple gut loads for me. I let the mealworms alone for a while to eat, usually half a day up to a day, then feed them to the geckos.

 

[katie_]

Looks like everythings covered except your UTH might discolour your floor, even with the rubber feet.
You could place a piece of plywood under your tank so that your hardwood doesnt get ruined.

 

[forgivenick]

Great thread with an OP who obviously did a great deal of research first (might come with the territory from experience with herp husbandry) and great thoughtful replies from others with leo experience. This is a great model of a thread that all of us who are trying to gain more knowledge about leo husbandry/housing/etc look for.

Thanks to all in this thread.

 

[Baum2044]

Okay, more good stuff! I picked up a plug in dimmer to work with the Uth temp and a digital thermometer for a more accurate reading. I also lifted the tank with a 2x4 at each end and I may see if I can find some plywood or something when I get another chance. I also just got a container for gut-loading feeders and I'll pick up some of the orange cube and other stuff and I'll try veggies when I get the actual gecko itself. So other than test running the temps and set up I think I'm In good shape.

Now when I stuck the Uth to the bottom of the tank it felt and looks like it stuck flat but when I look at it from the top there are tiny air bubbles here and there that I can't get smoothed out to save my life. Is this normal? Will it affect it negatively or cause stress cracks on my tank from the tiny air bubbles?

Also! As far as if I find a baby Leo I like, from what I understand they change color and pattern from baby to adult so what are key things to look for in a bright sunglow or tang?

And are the red bulbs at home depot the same thing as the infra red light bulbs they sell at the pet stores for more money?

 

[mudskipper]

My tank is on a wooden bookshelf, but the tank doesn't touch the wood itself. The tank sits on a couple of extendable metal shelves (with the legs folded) so my tank is about an inch off the wood. I also put tin foil underneath the tank where the UTH is to help direct the heat upward. So anything that raises the tank up a bit would be good, preferably something that won't catch fire like metal. I don't know the probability of wood catching fire so I'm using metal on be on the safe side.

In the tank, you could put in ceramic tiles underneath the paper towels directly above the UTH to help keep the temperature more even. A thicker layer of paper towels will also keep the temperature down in hotter spots.

As for the red light, just because it looks red, it doesn't mean it won't have a lot of visible light. I would personally use a red bulb with the correct wavelengths designed for viewing nocturnal animals at night. I use the 100W Exo Terra one. I keep mine on 24 hours to help raise the ambient temperature because the AC in my house is set to 70F. Also get a lamp that has a dimmer.

A very useful tool is the digital thermometer that you point at a spot and click to read the temperature. It's $25. Petco, Petsmart, and my local reptile shop all sell it.

 

[mudskipper]

I dust my crickets and mealworms every time too and also keep a dish of CaCO3 (without D3) in the tank at all times. The dish is still being licked everyday. I know this because I was smoothing it out daily only to find more chin or tongue prints the next day.

 

[Crewdog00]

LEOPARD GECKO CARESHEET
Size
Hatchlings measure from 3 to 4 inches long. Adult females are typically 7 to 8 inches, and males are 8 to 10 inches. Some males of the super giant bloodlines reach nearly a foot.
Caging & Housing
A 10- to 20-gallon tank houses one or two leopard geckos from hatchling to adult size. Larger tanks tend to cause the geckos to stray away from their proper heat and hide box. The added stress can cause them to not eat or “explore”. Many people use plastic storage boxes as housing or Glass fish tanks. Any cage you choose should be at least 1 foot tall. Be sure to have a secure screen top on your gecko cage that will support a light fixture, provide good ventilation and keep out other animals.
A hide box is a must. One filled with moist moss or vermiculite is needed, so your leopard gecko can shed its skin properly. Another dry hide should be added as well. Some keepers will have 3 hides in total, one moist placed in the middle of the tank, one dry on the warm side, and one on the cool side.
Lighting and Temperature
The best way to heat your leopard gecko is by using an Under tank heating pad aka “UTH”. These are available at any pet store or online. Heating one end of the cage is essential. This allows for a temperature variation that your lizard needs. NO Heat rocks since they tend to become too hot for leopard geckos and should be avoided due to the risk of burns.
For viewing, a simple low-wattage light can be placed overhead on the screen-cage top and left on 12 hours a day, this is optional. Some people will debate that the light bothers them, but I won’t get into this. I personally have my Gecko in a basement with a small window that allows some light.
The ideal temperature in the warm hide box is 86 to 93 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. The ambient air temperature of the room they are housed in should be above 73 degrees.
Substrate
Newspaper, paper towels, artificial turf, flat stones or tiles are okay. A young or debilitated leopard gecko might consume sand or fine-particle products on the cage floor, and this could lead to impaction. Adults can be housed on sand, but it should be super fine reptisand or play sand that has been screened for safety of big clumops.
Food
Live insects are a must for your gecko; they do not eat plants or veggies. The best items to use are mealworms or crickets, for a stable diet. You can treat your pet to waxworms or superworms once a week if you wish. Please keep in mind that these both are high is Fat. Not the healthiest food for your Gecko. I personally use regular mealworms and crickets 5 days a week.
All insects must be first given a nutritious powdered diet for at least 12 hours before being fed to your leopard gecko. This process is called “gut loading,” and it is very important to the health of your pet. I like to use carrots, potatoes, and Cricket Orange Cubes for Gut Loading my feeders.
Size of FOOD:
Rule of thumb- Food should be no bigger than half the size of their heads. One inch head means ½ inch food. You should feed them until they are full and stop eating. Some people keep a dish with mealworms in at all time for their Leos to take when needed. Others feed until their pets stop taking food.
Keepers can offer two appropriately sized insects for every inch of a leopard gecko’s total length every other day. Therefore, a 4-inch-long gecko would receive eight mealworms four to five times a week
Water
Fresh water must be available at all times. It should also be stable, so it cannot be spilled. Cage substrate should be kept dry. Make sure that young and adult leopard geckos can climb easily out of the dish you use so they don’t drown. I add Reptisafe to my water to ensure it is safe for my Geckos consumption.
Handling
Leopard Geckos will allow you to handle them but try to keep it down. Typically less than 5 minutes is a good timeframe. If your Leopard Gecko is wiggling around and trying to jump out of your hand you should leave them alone.

 

[LeopardShade]

LEOPARD GECKO CARESHEET
Size
Hatchlings measure from 3 to 4 inches long. Adult females are typically 7 to 8 inches, and males are 8 to 10 inches. Some males of the super giant bloodlines reach nearly a foot.
Caging & Housing
A 10- to 20-gallon tank houses one or two leopard geckos from hatchling to adult size. Larger tanks tend to cause the geckos to stray away from their proper heat and hide box. The added stress can cause them to not eat or “explore”. Many people use plastic storage boxes as housing or Glass fish tanks. Any cage you choose should be at least 1 foot tall. Be sure to have a secure screen top on your gecko cage that will support a light fixture, provide good ventilation and keep out other animals.
A hide box is a must. One filled with moist moss or vermiculite is needed, so your leopard gecko can shed its skin properly. Another dry hide should be added as well. Some keepers will have 3 hides in total, one moist placed in the middle of the tank, one dry on the warm side, and one on the cool side.
Lighting and Temperature
The best way to heat your leopard gecko is by using an Under tank heating pad aka “UTH”. These are available at any pet store or online. Heating one end of the cage is essential. This allows for a temperature variation that your lizard needs. NO Heat rocks since they tend to become too hot for leopard geckos and should be avoided due to the risk of burns.
For viewing, a simple low-wattage light can be placed overhead on the screen-cage top and left on 12 hours a day, this is optional. Some people will debate that the light bothers them, but I won’t get into this. I personally have my Gecko in a basement with a small window that allows some light.
The ideal temperature in the warm hide box is 86 to 93 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. The ambient air temperature of the room they are housed in should be above 73 degrees.
Substrate
Newspaper, paper towels, artificial turf, flat stones or tiles are okay. A young or debilitated leopard gecko might consume sand or fine-particle products on the cage floor, and this could lead to impaction. Adults can be housed on sand, but it should be super fine reptisand or play sand that has been screened for safety of big clumops.
Food
Live insects are a must for your gecko; they do not eat plants or veggies. The best items to use are mealworms or crickets, for a stable diet. You can treat your pet to waxworms or superworms once a week if you wish. Please keep in mind that these both are high is Fat. Not the healthiest food for your Gecko. I personally use regular mealworms and crickets 5 days a week.
All insects must be first given a nutritious powdered diet for at least 12 hours before being fed to your leopard gecko. This process is called “gut loading,” and it is very important to the health of your pet. I like to use carrots, potatoes, and Cricket Orange Cubes for Gut Loading my feeders.
Size of FOOD:
Rule of thumb- Food should be no bigger than half the size of their heads. One inch head means ½ inch food. You should feed them until they are full and stop eating. Some people keep a dish with mealworms in at all time for their Leos to take when needed. Others feed until their pets stop taking food.
Keepers can offer two appropriately sized insects for every inch of a leopard gecko’s total length every other day. Therefore, a 4-inch-long gecko would receive eight mealworms four to five times a week
Water
Fresh water must be available at all times. It should also be stable, so it cannot be spilled. Cage substrate should be kept dry. Make sure that young and adult leopard geckos can climb easily out of the dish you use so they don’t drown. I add Reptisafe to my water to ensure it is safe for my Geckos consumption.
Handling
Leopard Geckos will allow you to handle them but try to keep it down. Typically less than 5 minutes is a good timeframe. If your Leopard Gecko is wiggling around and trying to jump out of your hand you should leave them alone.

I'm not sure if you just simply forgot to cite your sources (i.e. post the link to the webpage that a vast majority of your information is coming from), or if you are trying to plagiarize Mr. Tremper's care sheet and claim it as your own. I'm in the dark as to how plagiarism is tolerated on this site, but if I was an admin, I wouldn't tolerate it.

 

[Crewdog00]

Did I not put the sources in my post? I believe I did and a lot of the information out there is based on other care sheets that are based off Rons site. Don't see how using information for multiple sites is plagiarism if I gave credit to the sources I listed.

Just sayin...

 

[LeopardShade]

Did I not put the sources in my post?

My apologies, I did not see this thread in which you did so until after I posted my comment above. Once again, sorry.

 

[Crewdog00]

No problem! Apology accepted. I will be the first to admit I used Rons care guide as a template but I did edit a lot and gave him credit because it was due.

I've only had my first Gecko for a week I site as hell don't know everything but I've learned more in a week than most people will know in a lifetime.

If I studied in college the way I do for Reptiles. I might be a lawyer or doctor.

 

[PFGeckos]

The others have been doing a great job of giving you information, but to go back to your earlier post, you asked about breeders. I'd recommend checking the Board of Inquiry to see if they are ethical or not. Most people are, but there are bad apples in every group, and I've been burned once myself. Here is a link. The good ones will not mind if you check their reputation, and will probably be glad that you're being careful.
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=13