Ovulating probs

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Frognut

Guest
I took my Gecko, Gretchen, to the vet yesterday. She started ovulating around the end of March - and Nevin (her breeder) confirmed it was ovulation around the middle of April.


However, she stopped eating altogether two weeks ago and I took her to the vet yesterday. She couldn't get a fecal since she hadn't eaten, but what she did get she looked at and didn't think she has parasites (but can't rule it out yet).

On exam, she said her belly felt full, but the lower part (closer to the tail was normal). She thought there could be the beginnings of her starting eggs, which will obviously be infertile.

She suggested that her calcium intake is not enough to 'create' the eggs her body wants her to and I am now giving her a dose of liquid calcium daily. She has a calcium dish, but since she is not eating the super-worms from it, she probably isn't getting enough. I am also to feed her baby food for the next week to get substance into her and try to get her interested in eating again.

Now the other part I'm confused on is she told me to change her daylight bulb to a UVB bulb. Either a florescent tube kind or the mega ray. I questioned this because I was always under the impression leopard geckos didn't need UVB. Her response was they normally don't but since she doesn't think Gretchen is getting enough calcium that a UVB on regularly should help her absorb it better.

I am also to give her a bigger hide, as a egg laying box. She thinks that maybe Gretchen can't find a proper place to lay eggs, so she is constantly pacing.

it sounds like she is saying, Gretchen's conditions are not right for forming eggs and until that happens she is going to be in this state until she does. I didn't ask that question that way (because I only thought it all the way through just now).

Does this sound right or logical? This vet is a highly recommended reptile vet.

So what material should I use to add in a laying box? And what about the UBV light? Is a 2.0 enough or should I get a 5.0?

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions!
 

BalloonzForU

New Member
Messages
7,571
Location
Grand Blanc, MI
I think you may have jumped the gun on taking her to the vet, if the only issue is she had not eaten for two weeks while she most likely has developing eggs inside her. Not saying it's bad, you're worried and you don't want anything to happen to our leo, it's understandable.

From what you've said about the dates, I would think that she would be right at the point where she would be laying her eggs or absorbing them, and would most likely go off feeding for a little while since she can't fit anything else in her body.

Make sure you've got a laybox for her so she can drop the eggs if she desides to and just make sure she's also got enough calcium in with her, she will eat as much as she feels she needs. I wouldn't worry about changing any lights.

While this vet may be highly recommended as a reptile vet, I'm sure she doesn't specialize in Leopard Geckos. What she recommended to you would be a general treatment for reptiles across the board, which won't hurt your leo, but really doesn't seem needed. Well, unless there is something else you missed in your post above?

Does your Leo's belly look anything like this?
http://leopardgeckobreeder.com/ovulation.html
 
F

Frognut

Guest
Yes, I was concerned - I wouldn't think of it as jumping the gun, in my case. (I'm still new to the leo world). Experience, and advice from sites like this will allow me to handle things like this better in the future, but peace of mind is a wonderful thing. ;)

Thank you for the information and advice. What material do you suggest for the laybox? Since she doesn't seem interested in using her moist hide, I wanted to use something besides the flukers moss.

Reading some of the other posts, her actions (trying to climb the tank, being much easier to handle, friendlier...) seems to agree with the vet and what you said about her getting ready to develop eggs.

Her belly doesn't have such large white bulges, but it does look similar. And it is more round in that area then it used to be. Should I force feed babyfood or let it go for now? I know two weeks isn't a long time, but following a severe decrease in food for a while, and a loss of a couple grams, I'm worried about her. If this is normal, I'll give it a little more time and see what happens.

So I am going to give her the liquid calcium because she isn't eating any food and I can't guarantee she is licking from the bowl. I don't think I missed any symptoms in my post.

Thanks again!
 

gothra

Happy Gecko Family
Messages
3,790
Location
HK
Welcome to the club! I feed my non-eating ovulating females a little bit of babyfood+mealworm slurry, with calcium and multivitamin added, once every 7-10 days. I don't know if its necessary, but it surely makes ME feel better knowing that she has food in her stomach and has the calcium and vitamin intake in case she wants to continue to develop eggs. If she is getting the calcium w/D3, then the UV light is not necessary.

I use coir in the lay box.
 
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acpart

Geck-cessories
Staff member
Messages
15,406
Location
Somerville, MA
I also use coir (coco fiber, bed a beast, all the same stuff) for the lay box which is used as a humid hide by the males as well as the females.

Aliza
 

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