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[njnolan1]

Good luck with it. Like I said, there are a lot of different opinions. If you decide to try some different things, I'm sure you'll find what works best for you.

~Maggot

Thanks! Yeah, I'm going to think about it and watch his behavior. This guy is always asking for food! If he hears me he climbs the flat rock and lifts his head straight up. It's pretty awesome.

Even the stickies are conflicting on leopard gecko care. I can't stand when people are like "No, it has to be this way or else you're a terrible pet owner and you do not deserve your pet because you can't supply your pet with 97.5555393 degrees F. I understand there are some definite guidelines like beardies need basking areas around 100-110F and UVB or fish need a dechlorinater if you use tap water but don't tell me if I don't use Prime (my favorite and most recommended brand) they're not going to make it.

Even on this thread people have chimed in saying they've never used or didn't use a uth for years without any issues. I saw that first post and I knew it, not being new to forums, that this was going to go on too long and people were going to argue... it happens on all forums.

 

[Kristi23]

Yes, there will always be arguments. Your best bet would be to follow the advice of experienced gecko keepers. There are breeders out there that have tried many things in the 10+ years that they have been breeding. Everyone just wants the best for all geckos.

 

[njnolan1]

Yes, there will always be arguments. Your best bet would be to follow the advice of experienced gecko keepers. There are breeders out there that have tried many things in the 10+ years that they have been breeding. Everyone just wants the best for all geckos.

Thanks!

I just can't imagine that he's stressed out at all for any reason because I don't have an uth. I don't want to over feed him so I give him around 3 large crickets a day and sometimes I mix in mealworms as well or only give him mealies that day. Eventually I'd like to make the move to dubia roaches or red runners but I just don't have the room or money right now. Anyhow, my point is he's always ready to eat and he has big nice poops! No noticeable undigested bug parts either!

I appreciate the help and definitely enjoy this website! There's a ton of info, like the games, and there's a wide variety of exotic animal threads.

 

[njnolan1]

I actually talked to someone who has had leos for close to 15 years. She lives in a warm environment and has never used any heat supplementation. No light, or uth. She keeps them at 80ish all year round and they're doing well. She has one for close to 15 years. I'm using all this information I'm gathering and deciding to just pay close attention to his behavior. He's pretty active and recently sheded again too successfully. He has been pooping more often but it's nice and healthy looking. Possibly I will I return the 75 watt light and get a 60. My only concern is the few months in the winter time when the ambient room drops to 68-72. Of course, breeders do a cooling period where they feed much less and let the temps drop for a few months so maybe a temperature drop might even be a better idea than keeping him the same temperatures all year round. I do believe that 60W will be enough to heat up the one side for now though. I'm only worried about the 75W because someone was telling me that it was too hot and going to dry out his eyes. Of course that makes me nervous but at the same time he's been fine for well over a month.

Any suggestions as far as light wattages?

 

[lisa127]

All I can tell you is what works for me in my home. I use a 50 or 60 watt black incandescent (no UTH). I have a rheostat hooked up to that and adjust it as needed. In the winter it is on high always. In the summer it is on high if the a/c is running but on low if it's not on. You really need a temp gun to measure temps in your home to see what you need to achieve the temps you want.

I would not advise no heat, as you mentioned above. I know...this person has kept leo's for close to 15 years. I and many here have been reptile keepers for longer than that. IMO, with ambient temps of 80 you would still want mild heat for a warmer side about 10 degrees warmer.

 

[satyr666]

The best investment you can make is get an infrared thermometer such as Amazon.com: Etekcity Temperature Gun Non-Contact Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Kitchen & Dining so you can verify what temp your at rather than speculating about bulb wattage; and buy a cheap thermostat such as the HydroFarm Amazon.com : Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden which will solve your temp issues I personally aim for 90 - 92 degrees on the warm side. Another option I would recommend over a red bulb or any sort of bulb is a ceramic heat emitter Amazon.com: Zoo Med ReptiCare Ceramic Infrared Heat Emitter 100 Watts: Pet Supplies Leopard geckos don't need light they do fine without it and you won't have to worry about turning it off at night you can just set it up for 90 and your good to go. I personally use a combination of UTH and ceramic heat emitter because I'm in Canada and I like to keep ambient air temps up not just surface temps. I use a lamp dimmer Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black - Amazon.com to set a low UTH temp and use a thermostat on the heat emitter to bring temps up to 90. I'm not saying you have to do this to be successful I'm just giving advice based on what I think is best but overall you need a way to regulate temps so I would definitely recommend an infrared thermometer and possibly just the cheap lamp dimmer if you cant afford a thermostat.