Ron Tremper's Dusting Replacement

[Samantha12]

Ron Tremper just posted a video to his facebook suggesting leopard geckos be offered vitamin supplements in their enclosure at all times in place of dusting feeders. What are everyone's thoughts on that? I'd love to give up dusting because it tends to be time-consuming and does seem arbitrary sometimes.
Vitamin Power 101 - YouTube

 

[OnlineGeckos]

I'm sticking with dusting routine, it's more practical and ensures the geckos get what they need. I don't subscribe to the idea that they will only ingest what they need. There are cases of D3 overdose from those that leave calcium with D3 inside their tanks. Which is why most recommend against having D3 inside leopard gecko's tanks.

Also some have suggested that certain vitamins do not get absorbed properly when ingested without food. It sort of makes sense, but I'm no expert on that subject. I think people should realize that some things large scale breeders do are for mere convenience. Dusting feeders for large scale breeders that have hundreds if not thousands of geckos likely isn't practical to them. But this doesn't mean general hobbyists or small scale breeders should follow those practices for optimal care.

Just my opinion, and I do respect Ron and hold high regards of him. :main_thumbsup:

 

[stager]

I tried leaving in cage my first breeding and most eggs didn't make it, I believe calcium def. was the culprit. Started dusting and no problems since.

 

[DrCarrotTail]

I'll let bigger breeders experiment with their animals. I want to keep mine healthy so I want to see results and specifics. Whatever Trempers using could work but all vitamins may not appeal to leos the same way. I always give breeding females calcium in their enclosures though. I usually just count feeders into a tupperware or Kritter Keeper that has a good amount of vitamin powder/Calcium in it and shake a few times before feeding so it takes no extra time or causes any hassle for me. I also leave a bit of vionate in my geckos food dishes as extra supplement and the mealworms eat it if they get the chance.

 

[Phantom240]

I couldn't see this working with the younger of my two girls, as she has a habit of spitting out feeders that have been dusted (tried multiple supplements). My older female might partake though. I still don't see this being a very good idea.

 

[tb144050]

I couldn't see this working with the younger of my two girls, as she has a habit of spitting out feeders that have been dusted (tried multiple supplements). My older female might partake though. I still don't see this being a very good idea.

I will prefer dusting as well. It is a "tried and true" method and I KNOW that they are getting supplements....not "hoping" the Leo is mature enough to eat healthy from the supplements in-tank. We are humans, and I just got finished eating a HUGE loaded baked potato with extra sour cream and butter...however, I didnt eat any vegetables...except chives...lol

Phanton240 (reminds me of my old Nissan 240sx..lol), I have noticed that if I feed 4crickets, my blizzard will bite and spit out crickets the next night. He seems about "half-hungry" until he "makes room" by going poopy. However, I dropped down to feeding him 3 crickets/day, and he eats all 3 with no hesitation. So I have seen and agree with what alot of people have said when users ask about "my health leo isn't eating": If they get hungry enough, they will eat.

My blizzard bites, but doesn't swallow the first ones if he is still "full" from last night, so it sounds similar?? Try cutting it's diet by 1 or 2 crickets, or even in half for a week. If it helps, just don't go back to the "overfull" feeding....let her stomach growl just a little...

 

[Phantom240]

Phanton240 (reminds me of my old Nissan 240sx..lol),

They'll always have a special place in my heart's garage. LOL.


Back to the topic at hand, if left to eat supplements as they please, wouldn't that enable massive overdosing on a multitude of different vitamins?

 

[indyana]

I've been thinking about this lately too, also based on Ron Tremper's method. Since this thread isn't too ancient, figured I would bring it up rather than recreating the conversation.

Does anyone else have thoughts on this? I currently dust with Repashy Calcium Plus and leave calcium (no D3) in the cage at all times, but I'm wondering if leaving a multivitamin in the cage would be required for breeders and/or babies.

Another question I had was regarding Vionite versus other vitamin supplements. Is there a specific reason folks use Vionite in this method, or could Repashy Calcium Plus serve the same purpose?

 

[Yuk]

I'm also interested in who uses this successfully and how long they have been doing it. I've been doing something similar in keeping the food dish of mealworms full of a vitamin gut load with the purpose of allowing a small taste of that grabbed by the gecko when they eat at the advice of a local leopard gecko breeder.

 

[DrCarrotTail]

I leave a vionate mixture in my geckos feeding bowls at all times. I also dust with Repashy and give breeding females a dish of pure calcium. I leave the vionate for two reasons. 1.) it is grain based and the insects in the bowls eat it and live longer in addition to being better gut loaded if they're in there for a day or two and 2.) to allow the geckos to choose if they want to eat the vitamins if they need them. I've seen that a lot of bigger breeders don't dust but it takes me an average of 2.2 seconds every time I feed and it helps me worry less I won't be discontinuing it any time soon

 

[rothsauce]

@ Carrot - What else is in the vionate 'mixture' you mentioned? I'd feel better having a vitamin mixture in the bottom of their food dish over having a extra cap full of dust that is more likely to get stomped over.