Temps..

LCReptiles

New Member
Messages
158
Location
Blacksburg, Virginia
Right now my leos are housed in a 9 tub rack system with rheostat (yes, I know, my new rack with thermostat will be here in 3 weeks). We are remodeling our house and right now it has only an ancient window unit that does little to cool very much. I have an external thermometer sensor taped in the middle tub under the repti-carpet to monitor temperatures. I've ready MANY caresheets over the years since I've kept leos and I know the basking spot can be around 96-97 degrees. My question is why when my temps reach 92 degrees do all my leos plaster themselves to the front of the tub lol... I feel like a bad dad..
 

KTyne

Kayla
Messages
531
Location
Lancaster Park, AB
The basking spot should actually only be around 87-93 degrees, more and it gets too hot. Also, each Leo is different and yours may prefer it on the cooler end of the scale.
 

acpart

Geck-cessories
Staff member
Messages
15,278
Location
Somerville, MA
One interesting question is if it's 92 where the probe is, what's the temp in each individual tub? It's possible that it's enough above 92 to be uncomfortable for them.

Aliza
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
I hope its cool to ask my question here. I seen this thread and its about the temps and placement of thermometers.

I have an 18x18x18 exo terra desert terrarium. I have had my little leopard Gecko for 5 days, it a juvenile.

I have a UVB bulb and a 50 watt night bulb in the top lamp holder. I also have a UTH sized for 10 to 20 gallon tanks.

I have been trying to regulate the basking spot with a lamp dimmer. Its proving to be difficult. I have been reading around the forums and have seen the hydrofarm thermostat was recommended by a few people.

I have ordered the thermostat and one question I have is where does the probe go if I don't use sand? Lay it on the reptile carpet at the basking spot?

Thanks
 

indyana

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,336
Location
Massachusetts, United States
Putting it on the basking spot is definitely the best way to regulate the temperature. You will need to secure it to the spot so the gecko cannot push it around though. Having the probe moved off the UTH could lead to dangerous overheating.

Maybe someone who also uses carpet could share their ideas for securing the probe. I use paper towel, so I stick my probe to the glass underneath the paper towel layer and then put the warm hide over it so that the hide edge sits on the cable. There's a bump in the paper, but I don't have to worry about the probe moving. :)

If you don't have a temp gun yet, I would suggest getting one. I use mine to check the actual surface temp and then turn my thermostat temp up/down as needed.
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
Putting it on the basking spot is definitely the best way to regulate the temperature. You will need to secure it to the spot so the gecko cannot push it around though. Having the probe moved off the UTH could lead to dangerous overheating.

Maybe someone who also uses carpet could share their ideas for securing the probe. I use paper towel, so I stick my probe to the glass underneath the paper towel layer and then put the warm hide over it so that the hide edge sits on the cable. There's a bump in the paper, but I don't have to worry about the probe moving. :)

If you don't have a temp gun yet, I would suggest getting one. I use mine to check the actual surface temp and then turn my thermostat temp up/down as needed.

Thank you for the reply. I was considering putting the probe under the carpet. Your response has eased my concerns.

I don't have a temp gun, but we have an infrared thermometer we use for our 4yro child. So far it has temped the area very close to what the analog thermometer we use that came with the terrarium kit. I'm thinking the temp shown by the thermometer is more accurate than the kit thermometer.


Thank you so much for the info!

Peace
 

indyana

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,336
Location
Massachusetts, United States
If you choose to use the light, just make sure he can get away from it during the day and it isn't shining into his hides. While a lot of folks on here do not use lighting at all, I've read a couple articles that put forth that low-level UVA/UVB and a set lighting schedule can be beneficial.
 

OnlineGeckos

New Member
Messages
1,407
Location
SoCal
18x18x18 is too small of a terrarium to be using light/UVB. There's no way you can properly have good temperature gradient as well as proper shading for your gecko with a tank that size. To use limited controlled UVB properly for leopard geckos, you need a 40 gallon or above, with lots of plant shadings and hides. Too much exposure to light can be harmful to their eyes, and too much UVB can damage their skins. For that size of a tank, I would suggest skipping the UVB. Indirect sunlight from the window is good enough, even if it's with blinds closed. All you are needing is to allow the leopard geckos to establish a day/night cycle, which is really easy since the ambient light during the day is brighter, and temperature higher.

Make sure to supplement your gecko well with multivitamin supplement, they'll get proper D3 via the supplement routine. Use Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus at every feeding, or 2-3x a week, and you'll be set.
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
If you choose to use the light, just make sure he can get away from it during the day and it isn't shining into his hides. While a lot of folks on here do not use lighting at all, I've read a couple articles that put forth that low-level UVA/UVB and a set lighting schedule can be beneficial.

Currently I have two hides, a dry warm side and a cool side moist hide.


For moist hide I painted (black) a 1 pint Ziploc reusable plastic bowl and cut a hole in the side of it. Filled it 1/3 full with Sphagnum moss and moistened it.

The warm hide came with the Exo Terra terrarium kit. Looks like a larger rock cut in half and hollowed out.

I will try and post a picture or two later.

Thanks for the info!!
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
18x18x18 is too small of a terrarium to be using light/UVB. There's no way you can properly have good temperature gradient as well as proper shading for your gecko with a tank that size. To use limited controlled UVB properly for leopard geckos, you need a 40 gallon or above, with lots of plant shadings and hides. Too much exposure to light can be harmful to their eyes, and too much UVB can damage their skins. For that size of a tank, I would suggest skipping the UVB. Indirect sunlight from the window is good enough, even if it's with blinds closed. All you are needing is to allow the leopard geckos to establish a day/night cycle, which is really easy since the ambient light during the day is brighter, and temperature higher.

Make sure to supplement your gecko well with multivitamin supplement, they'll get proper D3 via the supplement routine. Use Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus at every feeding, or 2-3x a week, and you'll be set.

I am using the reptivite to dust the crickets, along with pure calcium. I also have a small lid with pure calcium in the terrarium next to the water dish.

One thing we have ran into is it will not eat the dusted crickets. we can put in one dusted and one non dusted and it will eat the non, and leave the dusted one alone. we have left the dusted cricket in for about 1.5 hours and it will not touch it.

The first feeding we did when we got it home it ate one cricket that was dusted.

I guess I will continue to offer the crickets dusted before we offer non dusted crickets.

Any advice on how to get it to eat the dusted crickets? I use the "shake and bake" method of dusting.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:

lisa127

New Member
Messages
777
Location
NE Ohio
18x18x18 is too small of a terrarium to be using light/UVB. There's no way you can properly have good temperature gradient as well as proper shading for your gecko with a tank that size. To use limited controlled UVB properly for leopard geckos, you need a 40 gallon or above, with lots of plant shadings and hides. Too much exposure to light can be harmful to their eyes, and too much UVB can damage their skins. For that size of a tank, I would suggest skipping the UVB. Indirect sunlight from the window is good enough, even if it's with blinds closed. All you are needing is to allow the leopard geckos to establish a day/night cycle, which is really easy since the ambient light during the day is brighter, and temperature higher.

Make sure to supplement your gecko well with multivitamin supplement, they'll get proper D3 via the supplement routine. Use Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus at every feeding, or 2-3x a week, and you'll be set.

I agree with this....the enclosure would have to be very large. In fact, I expressed this opinion on here once and was harassed about it. So I'll just say that I agree.
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
I agree with this....the enclosure would have to be very large. In fact, I expressed this opinion on here once and was harassed about it. So I'll just say that I agree.


Ok thank you for the advice. Let me ask you guys another question.

Can I use the two sockets that came with the kit for ambient lighting then....as in buy a couple of low watt LED bulbs to keep on in the daytime, or is any light bad for the gecko in such a limited space?

Thanks!!
 

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,590
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
I just keep a full spectrum floor lamp on a timer in my gecko room. I don't think they need full spectrum on their tank but I can't see how light would hurt. I keep my quarantined geckos in my living room and they get a ton more light than those in my gecko room and don't seem to come to any harm. If you want the lights there to make your gecko's tank pretty I think they'd be okay but I don't see any reason they need them and would think they'd prefer them not to be there.
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
I just keep a full spectrum floor lamp on a timer in my gecko room. I don't think they need full spectrum on their tank but I can't see how light would hurt. I keep my quarantined geckos in my living room and they get a ton more light than those in my gecko room and don't seem to come to any harm. If you want the lights there to make your gecko's tank pretty I think they'd be okay but I don't see any reason they need them and would think they'd prefer them not to be there.

Well it seems that no matter what the light source the little guys would be more comfortable without it.

Today I bought a infrared temp tester that is made for testing surface temps. I tested the carpet in the area of the UTH and it read 93º~95º depending on where I tested. The UTH/Dimmer combo seems to be working out so far. I have a thermostat on order from Amazon that should come in later this week.

Also today I stopped by Lowes and picked up some ceramic tile and had some of them cut so I can lay them in back to back on the floor. I was able to get them cut so it will cover the entire floor. When the thermostat arrives im considering removing the gecko and spreading calcium sand 1/2 inch thick on the floor and then putting the thermostat probe over the UTH, then laying the tile in over the calcium sand. I am currently using repti carpet.

Do you think this would be a problem?

Thanks
 
Last edited:

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,590
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
I do think putting sand in between the tank bottom and tile is a good idea but I would use plain old play sand instead of calcium sand. Play sand holds no incentive for a leo to chow down on it (and its cheaper) the calcium sand may be more tempting and therefore there's a higher risk he may eat it and become impacted. How much sand to use would depend on the ability of your UTH to heat the tile through the sand. It will need to be hotter to heat through a thicker substrate.
 

unrealfreak

New Member
Messages
11
Location
USA
I do think putting sand in between the tank bottom and tile is a good idea but I would use plain old play sand instead of calcium sand. Play sand holds no incentive for a leo to chow down on it (and its cheaper) the calcium sand may be more tempting and therefore there's a higher risk he may eat it and become impacted. How much sand to use would depend on the ability of your UTH to heat the tile through the sand. It will need to be hotter to heat through a thicker substrate.

Thank you once again for the advice! im already learning so much about the gecko here. Most everything im picking up I share with my 4yr old.

I have been reading her many of the taming tips that I have found while browsing this forum.

Thanks again
 

Visit our friends

Top