F
fourtanks
Guest
I have read about people using an external thermostat with their hovobator. Since the hovobator comes with a thermostat is it nessessary to connect another one?
Kellyr
Member
- Messages
- 826
- Location
- Philadelphia
The thermostat that comes with the incubator (I have mine up and running now for 2 weeks) can jump in temps about 3 degrees and rather quickly. It is set on 82 but varies between 80 and 83.8 at times when ambient room temps fluxuate. So altough it may not be NEEDED it is recommended by most people to minimize temp jumps (this can happen over a time period of ten minutes) which will help minimize birth defects and help hatch out some nice healthy babies just by stabilizing the temperature. Good luck with yours :main_yes:
My eggs are already in so for me I just get to play with that dial every hour or so... great... :main_thumbsdown:
My eggs are already in so for me I just get to play with that dial every hour or so... great... :main_thumbsdown:
Lena
I question all things.
- Messages
- 1,073
- Location
- Pennsylvania
To be completely honest I had more temp fluctuations WITH an external thermostat than with the one built in.. So far it hasn't wavered for more than a degree for me.
I think it depends on how much the temperatures fluctuate in your house.
Do lots of experimenting before your eggs arrive to see what's best for you!
I think it depends on how much the temperatures fluctuate in your house.
Do lots of experimenting before your eggs arrive to see what's best for you!
JordanAng420
New Member
- Messages
- 3,280
- Location
- Miami, FL
I have the Helix proportional thermostat, and it took almost 2 weeks for it to regulate itself... before I had it, the 'bator would range anywhere from 79-84.4 degrees! I experimented a lot with bowls of water, bags, water bottles...and the best thing I've done so far is put 3 64 oz. Glad-Ware containers half full of water on the rack with the container that holds the eggs. Right now I am holding steady with a maximum fluct. of 81.5-82.5.
I would definatly recommend getting one...but shop around if you have time, the one I got was quite pricey.
I would definatly recommend getting one...but shop around if you have time, the one I got was quite pricey.
GeckoGathering
GrizLaru
- Messages
- 4,323
- Location
- Indiana
Bator Flux
IMO for what it is worth.
My bator is not a hovobator but very similar.
In my instructions with it it reads "room temps. not to exceed 73 degrees.
Many gecko areas do not fall in this criteria. Mine did not either.
Temp. fluxs seem to take place that do not help on (I find mostly lower temp
female hatchings)
After much disappointment in 2007 I read more on one (I feel Sucessful)
breeder. Albey ****** Method for females..
Perlite, no holes in container lid and No incubator used.
I prepared to try his method in 2008 creating a area ranging 78 to 84 degrees..................
In 2008 100 % hatchings (25 for 25) , no dents, no thought to be
non fertile eggs, Eyes with no bodies, no..no.. no..
Still use the incubator for males......higher temps seem less problem.
Only did 2 in 2008 but both great hatching.
Take care and may the power of hatchings be with you....HJ
IMO for what it is worth.
My bator is not a hovobator but very similar.
In my instructions with it it reads "room temps. not to exceed 73 degrees.
Many gecko areas do not fall in this criteria. Mine did not either.
Temp. fluxs seem to take place that do not help on (I find mostly lower temp
female hatchings)
After much disappointment in 2007 I read more on one (I feel Sucessful)
breeder. Albey ****** Method for females..
Perlite, no holes in container lid and No incubator used.
I prepared to try his method in 2008 creating a area ranging 78 to 84 degrees..................
In 2008 100 % hatchings (25 for 25) , no dents, no thought to be
non fertile eggs, Eyes with no bodies, no..no.. no..
Still use the incubator for males......higher temps seem less problem.
Only did 2 in 2008 but both great hatching.
Take care and may the power of hatchings be with you....HJ
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