What Morphs do I have?

[Calyxise]

I got both of these Leopard Geckos from Petco. I had them both in a 10g and noticed that the bolder Gecko wasn't growing so I figured it wasn't getting enough to eat because the lighter one was getting a fat tail.
I separated them and and keep the darker one in my room and the lighter one in my moms room.
The night after I separated them the darker one ate 9 whole meal worms. (With Calcium on them.)
I would like to start breeding them once I have the knowledge and move into a bigger house so I have room to house them.
So I was wondering what Morphs I have and I also have a few other questions.

Should I calcium every feeding?
Is it okay to have meal worms available to them at all times?
Should I buy some wax worms to fatten him up?
Is there anything I can do better to take care of them?
I try to handle mine at least every other day for at least 5 minutes. If longer I keep him in the plastic tub in the picture just so I make sure he doesn't go flying onto my bed.
Do you have any secrets to making them more tame? (I know it's mostly a matter of time and hard work.)
How often do they shed?

Here are the images:



I believe that this one is a female.
More of a sand colored eye.
(Mrs/Mr. Hyde)



I believe that this one is a male.
Dark blue-ish eye.
(Dr. Jekyll)
He wasn't cooperating as well.
(Notice the cute heart on his nose. <3)
This is obviously the smaller one.
I don't know if there is actually even an age difference but when we got them they were about the same size.

Thank you so much, Amber.

 

[acpart]

Hi Amber,
The first one is an albino, most likely the Tremper strain since you got it from Petco. The second is too young to tell exactly how it will turn out. Eventually the black bands will break up into spots. Sometimes the spots will disappear. If they all disappear it's a "superhypo", if all but 10 or so disappear, it's a "hypo", if it still has a bunch of spots but the entire body isn't covered, you could say it's a "high yellow" meaning there's a lot of yellow on it, but it's still spotted.
It they really are male and female, it's good you separated them. Think carefully about breeding them. It involves a few hundred dollars investment in equipment including an incubator, appropriate thermostat, food and caging for babies. Many people will advise against breeding Petco geckos or any geckos whose genetics are unknown. I don't feel as strongly if the geckos are healthy and of good quality.
Here are answers to your other questions:
--many people dust with calcium at every feeding or every other feeding. I'm about 2/3 of the feedings, sometimes because I'm lazy
--it's fine to have mealworms available all the time
--don't bother with the waxworms. They're not very nutritious and can be addicting
--I don't know if there's anything better you can do because I don't know all the details of what you are doing. If they are in good sized cages with the floor on the warm side in the low 90's and are eating well and growing you're probably fine.
--many of them will get more tame as they get older. The juveniles are "programmed" to hide and be jumpy to protect themselves. There are some geckos, though, that never like to be held
--they may shed every month or so, depending on how fast they're growing. Some shed more often.

Aliza

 

[Calyxise]

Hi Amber,
The first one is an albino, most likely the Tremper strain since you got it from Petco. The second is too young to tell exactly how it will turn out. Eventually the black bands will break up into spots. Sometimes the spots will disappear. If they all disappear it's a "superhypo", if all but 10 or so disappear, it's a "hypo", if it still has a bunch of spots but the entire body isn't covered, you could say it's a "high yellow" meaning there's a lot of yellow on it, but it's still spotted.
It they really are male and female, it's good you separated them. Think carefully about breeding them. It involves a few hundred dollars investment in equipment including an incubator, appropriate thermostat, food and caging for babies. Many people will advise against breeding Petco geckos or any geckos whose genetics are unknown. I don't feel as strongly if the geckos are healthy and of good quality.
Here are answers to your other questions:
--many people dust with calcium at every feeding or every other feeding. I'm about 2/3 of the feedings, sometimes because I'm lazy
--it's fine to have mealworms available all the time
--don't bother with the waxworms. They're not very nutritious and can be addicting
--I don't know if there's anything better you can do because I don't know all the details of what you are doing. If they are in good sized cages with the floor on the warm side in the low 90's and are eating well and growing you're probably fine.
--many of them will get more tame as they get older. The juveniles are "programmed" to hide and be jumpy to protect themselves. There are some geckos, though, that never like to be held
--they may shed every month or so, depending on how fast they're growing. Some shed more often.

Aliza

I wasn't planning on breeding these guys. Simply pets.
I know that breeding is going to cost lots of money that is why I am going to hold of for quite some time.
The lady at petco told me it was better to have a heat lamp. Should I get a head pad? Or a heated rock?
They are both in 10g tanks.
Thank you!

 

[Lindz0518]

You need an under the tank heater, hooked up to a dimmer or thermostat to control temps, you want it between 89-95 floor temp on the warm side, you can measure the temps with a temp gun or thermostat probe. DO NOT use a heat rock, they get way too hot. You do not need a heat lamp, unless you need to raise ambient temps, then you can use a black heat bulb or ceramic heat lamb, bright lights can stress your pets, and albinos are super sensitive to light. Leopard geckos use belly heat to digest their food, so you need a under tank heater. As for supplements I use Repashy Calcium Plus and I dust with every feeding. And I agree with skipping the waxworms unless you want to give one a week or every two weeks as treats. Glad you have them separated. In each tank you need a hide on the warm side (over the under tank heater) a cool hide and a moist hide with moist moss or cocoa fiber in it.

 

[Calyxise]

You need an under the tank heater, hooked up to a dimmer or thermostat to control temps, you want it between 89-95 floor temp on the warm side, you can measure the temps with a temp gun or thermostat probe. DO NOT use a heat rock, they get way too hot. You do not need a heat lamp, unless you need to raise ambient temps, then you can use a black heat bulb or ceramic heat lamb, bright lights can stress your pets, and albinos are super sensitive to light. Leopard geckos use belly heat to digest their food, so you need a under tank heater. As for supplements I use Repashy Calcium Plus and I dust with every feeding. And I agree with skipping the waxworms unless you want to give one a week or every two weeks as treats. Glad you have them separated. In each tank you need a hide on the warm side (over the under tank heater) a cool hide and a moist hide with moist moss or cocoa fiber in it.

I have a reptile carpet, a large leafy shady plant and his hide is one cut in half that is more like a cactus from petco and a heating lamp that I keep in the middle of the lid of the cage.
He usually stays under the leaves. I normally keep the light on during the day and turn it off at night. I live in Washington state so it's always pretty cold. My bulb is 55 or 65 watt. My room normally stays 70 degrees.
How much is a heating pad?
Should I change my hide to something more hidden?

 

[Lindz0518]

You just need a few places that he can hide during the day. The under tank heaters are around $20 (try amazon, they usually have good deals on them, sometimes $13 ) The under tank heater is very important for you leo. You will put it on the bottom of the tank on the OUTSIDE. Then you will want to put a hide on it like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11547-Rock-Den-Small/dp/B000OQUIF2/ref=sr_1_20?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1353163071&sr=1-20&keywords=reptile+hide

and the under tank heater something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm%C2%AE-Under-Heater/dp/B0002AQCKA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1353163289&sr=1-2&keywords=under+tank+heater

- You will also want something to measure your surface temps like a temp gun. Needs to be 89-95 floor temp on the hot side

 

[Calyxise]

You just need a few places that he can hide during the day. The under tank heaters are around $20 (try amazon, they usually have good deals on them, sometimes $13 ) The under tank heater is very important for you leo. You will put it on the bottom of the tank on the OUTSIDE. Then you will want to put a hide on it like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11547-Rock-Den-Small/dp/B000OQUIF2/ref=sr_1_20?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1353163071&sr=1-20&keywords=reptile+hide

and the under tank heater something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTherm%C2%AE-Under-Heater/dp/B0002AQCKA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1353163289&sr=1-2&keywords=under+tank+heater

- You will also want something to measure your surface temps like a temp gun. Needs to be 89-95 floor temp on the hot side

Alright, thank you so much. I'll pick those up once I get my social security and feel safe spending a few buckaroos.

 

[Calyxise]

I picked up these.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti...=UTF8&qid=1353183677&sr=8-3&keywords=temp+gun
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DIE3U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (I'm totally a girl and this is totally cute.)
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Repti...=1353163289&sr=1-2&keywords=under+tank+heater

His tail is getting a little fatter. I'm glad.