Which type of worm is easier to digest, mealworm or waxworm?

Which is easier to digest?

  • Mealworms

    Votes: 6 37.5%
  • Waxworms

    Votes: 4 25.0%
  • other

    Votes: 6 37.5%

  • Total voters
    16

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
I need to fatten up my baby Leopard Gecko, which is easier for him Mealworm or Waxworm? The reason I'm using worms is because I'm afraid he doesn't have the energy to chase a cricket and he would just lose more energy than he would gain. As he get's "bigger" I'm going to feed him a staple of mealworms with crickets as a treat here and there just because crickets don't survive too long when I need them and I can't really drive to the petstore every week because it's just too far from my house.

Thanks
 

GodzillaGecko

New Member
Messages
156
Location
Milford PA
Meal worms are to fatty to feed a leopard gecko. Its good for a treat but nothing more. Maybe once a month give him a few but that's it. The mealworms are your best choice as they don't need to run around like crickets do. And also easier to gut load for the extra vitemins and protein. The Crickets you can rip a leg off. makes it easier for them to catch or hand feed the gecko and see if he'd take it from there.

Still your best bet is the meal worms. Get a large supply, sit them in a trey of dried oatmeal, veggies, and such and they will be a healthy food source for your gecko.

Otherwise crickets are easier to digest. Meal warms would be but to high in fat and so not really good for your gecko. And then Meal worms. But if you got the correct heating setup they should be fine.
 

DrCarrotTail

Moderator
Messages
3,589
Location
Ridgewood, NJ
Meal worms are to fatty to feed a leopard gecko. Its good for a treat but nothing more. Maybe once a month give him a few but that's it. The mealworms are your best choice as they don't need to run around like crickets do.

I believe it should be wax worms in the first sentence.

I don't think I know enough about the digestion of sick geckos to answer. If it were a skinny dog the higher fat content could upset his stomach and a lean bland diet would be better. But you have a skinny gecko that has to deal with digesting exoskeletons so I'm not sure the same thing would apply. Sorry I'm not more help! I'll be interested to read what others say!
 

Taesolieroy

Freelance Artist
Messages
103
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Heh, I think GG means wax worms there in the beginning ^_^

Mealies are considered a staple alongside crickets, while Wax Worms and Butter worms are more considered a treat.

It's fairly easy to breed your own mealies as well to save on money, but I probably wouldn't suggest it unless you have at least 3 geckos that need feeding. My older girl Natesa isn't responding as well to crickets anymore so I may end up moving her fully onto mealworms. Wax Worms are also easy to breed but STINKAY XP

For a sick and/or severely underweight geckos - get smaller feeders than you would normally feed - sure it takes more to feed the equivalent, but the smaller bodies mean softer exoskeletons for geckos to more easily eat. With mealworms the smaller ones means a better chance to get mashed up. I would suggest small Mealworms for a sick gecko at first to build energy (dusting them with their calcium and multivitamins will help the recovery) and then start re-introducing crickets with at least one leg pulled off to get him/her interested in hunting again. I hear small hornworms have been useful in restoring appetites, but I haven't used them before >_>
 
Last edited:

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
Meal worms are to fatty to feed a leopard gecko. Its good for a treat but nothing more. Maybe once a month give him a few but that's it. The mealworms are your best choice as they don't need to run around like crickets do. And also easier to gut load for the extra vitemins and protein. The Crickets you can rip a leg off. makes it easier for them to catch or hand feed the gecko and see if he'd take it from there.

Still your best bet is the meal worms. Get a large supply, sit them in a trey of dried oatmeal, veggies, and such and they will be a healthy food source for your gecko.

Otherwise crickets are easier to digest. Meal warms would be but to high in fat and so not really good for your gecko. And then Meal worms. But if you got the correct heating setup they should be fine.

Check your post there buddy, I think you meant wax worms somewhere there. When I bought my baby gecko he was far too underwieght for his size. I posted a question on what kind of morph he was on here, and almost all replies were on how unhealthy he looked. I just wanna fatten him a bit then get him on a diet of meal worms with some crickets as a treat.
 

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
Heh, I think GG means wax worms there in the beginning ^_^

Mealies are considered a staple alongside crickets, while Wax Worms and Butter worms are more considered a treat.

It's fairly easy to breed your own mealies as well to save on money, but I probably wouldn't suggest it unless you have at least 3 geckos that need feeding. My older girl Natesa isn't responding as well to crickets anymore so I may end up moving her fully onto mealworms. Wax Worms are also easy to breed but STINKAY XP

For a sick and/or severely underweight geckos - get smaller feeders than you would normally feed - sure it takes more to feed the equivalent, but the smaller bodies mean softer exoskeletons for geckos to more easily eat. With mealworms the smaller ones means a better chance to get mashed up. I would suggest small Mealworms for a sick gecko at first to build energy (dusting them with their calcium and multivitamins will help the recovery) and then start re-introducing crickets with at least one leg pulled off to get him/her interested in hunting again. I hear small hornworms have been useful in restoring appetites, but I haven't used them before >_>

Interesting, most people say to use Waxworms as a quick way to build up energy, then when they show signs of more activity switch them to meal worms until they look in good condition. I'm making a trip to the pet shop tommorow because it's almost mid-night here. I'm buying live meal worms and a couple wax worms just to boost him a bit. Since I won't have food for him till tommorow afternoon, should I put a small gatorade cap of calcium with D3 next to his waterdish? I'm really worried because he's just falling alseep anywhere in his tank.
 

Taesolieroy

Freelance Artist
Messages
103
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
@Whispy - did you know what weight your baby was? I picked up a Patternless (possible CT as well judging by the extent of orange on her tail) that was nothing but 'twigs' and weighed a scary 4 g - too young to be shipped or sold from my local petstore.

She was fed mainly on a diet of small-medium crickets and two months later she's now the weight my largest was when I got her at 16 grams with a happy little fat tail. A baby geck's diet doesn't have to be just mealworms or crickets, granted mealworms are an easier prey for a learning baby if they're not as spunky active as my little missy is.
If you want to safely buffer the fat on the baby's tail for the both of you, an occasional treat of 1-2 wax worms every few meals is enough to boost the fat that would later be converted towards growth and weight without the risk of them becoming too addicted or to health issues.
I want to mention that another good worm to feed your babies are Phoenix Worms - yes a bit pricy but plenty active and high in needed calcium to aid growth as well as other beneficial properties. Wierd looking buggers in my opinion, but one of the best foods to give a growing baby.

Putting a cap of the calcium powder is an excellent supplement for the gecko to self-supply if they're not getting enough, I have a couple caps in my tank for the girls even though they seem to walk all through it ¬.¬
 
Last edited:

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
@Whispy - did you know what weight your baby was? I picked up a Patternless (possible CT as well judging by the extent of orange on her tail) that was nothing but 'twigs' and weighed a scary 4 g - too young to be shipped or sold from my local petstore.

She was fed mainly on a diet of small-medium crickets and two months later she's now the weight my largest was when I got her at 16 grams with a happy little fat tail. A baby geck's diet doesn't have to be just mealworms or crickets, granted mealworms are an easier prey for a learning baby if they're not as spunky active as my little missy is.
If you want to safely buffer the fat on the baby's tail for the both of you, an occasional treat of 1-2 wax worms every few meals is enough to boost the fat that would later be converted towards growth and weight without the risk of them becoming too addicted or to health issues.
I want to mention that another good worm to feed your babies are Phoenix Worms - yes a bit pricy but plenty active and high in needed calcium to aid growth as well as other beneficial properties. Wierd looking buggers in my opinion, but one of the best foods to give a growing baby.

Putting a cap of the calcium powder is an excellent supplement for the gecko to self-supply if they're not getting enough, I have a couple caps in my tank for the girls even though they seem to walk all through it ¬.¬

Here's the link:
http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae302/CRABfis/?action=view&current=6.jpg

Thanks, that's what I was thinking. Starting with small mealworms and dust with plain Calcium every other feeding and dust with D3 Calcium every 2 weeks. Then I'll give his undusted waxworms every 3 feedings until he grows a bit more. Plus I'll have a cap of Plain calcium out, also what do they do with these? Do they just lick it like they do with water?
 

Taesolieroy

Freelance Artist
Messages
103
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Oh wow yeah you have your work cut out for the little one :S Mine wasn't that bad, you can see in my icon how she looked the day I got her.

As far as where they sleep they'll do so according to their body temperature. I'd probably also suggest switching her substrate to something like repticarpet or paper towels. I'm using repticarpet right now until I can get my girls situated into a much more properly built vivarium setup. It's much easier to clean and greatly reduces risk of impactation especially for a gecko of that one's condition since they most likely won't be able to have 100% body coordination.

Tweezer feeding will help by holding the insect within biting range. I believe Golden Gate Geckos has a slurry recipe for such cases like this, but in her condition I'm worried that even the handling required to force-feed her such a mix would cause more damage than good >_>

I just put the straight D3 powder in the tank because with each feeding I give my lot they'll get a tweezer pinch of the powder mixed with the multivitamin powder split between the three. They'll lick the powder up just like water .. if they don't scatter it through the tank first ¬.¬
 

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
Oh wow yeah you have your work cut out for the little one :S Mine wasn't that bad, you can see in my icon how she looked the day I got her.

As far as where they sleep they'll do so according to their body temperature. I'd probably also suggest switching her substrate to something like repticarpet or paper towels. I'm using repticarpet right now until I can get my girls situated into a much more properly built vivarium setup. It's much easier to clean and greatly reduces risk of impactation especially for a gecko of that one's condition since they most likely won't be able to have 100% body coordination.

Tweezer feeding will help by holding the insect within biting range. I believe Golden Gate Geckos has a slurry recipe for such cases like this, but in her condition I'm worried that even the handling required to force-feed her such a mix would cause more damage than good >_>

I just put the straight D3 powder in the tank because with each feeding I give my lot they'll get a tweezer pinch of the powder mixed with the multivitamin powder split between the three. They'll lick the powder up just like water .. if they don't scatter it through the tank first ¬.¬

Darn, that's what I feared when I was given my tank. I thought about switching out the sand for something a bit more suited for a baby but we spent so much on everything, i guess. Could I maybe just take her out everytime I feed her? Or since I'm going to be feeding her meal worms wouldn't the dish already protect against that? Sorry for the sudden newbness, suddenly you forget things when the health of your gecko is on the line. I'm goig to add the Supplement with D3 right now using a gatorade cap.
 

Taesolieroy

Freelance Artist
Messages
103
Location
Atlanta, Georgia
Taking them out is what I've done with mine, I mentioned this to folks I know that keep reptiles and they agree that leos somehow feed better when they're out of their home tank - plus it makes it easier to keep it all clean ^_^

If you want to make it less stressful on the babe a smooth-sided dish they can't climb out of will help. It's ok to keep her on the sand for the time being as it spreads the digestive heat better for her (you're using an under-tank-heater right? Leos don't need a light because they're nocturnal and digest better with a belly heat) and you can sink the dish down in the sand to make it more accessible for her ^_^

It's fine with all the questions! I might not post much but I watch and observe than talk, and say when I can and am able to say what I can say. I've had my share of cold-shoulder reptile keepers in other forums and I know how hard it is to take on such a challenge like your baby with more experienced hobbyists/keepers jumping down your throat about the size over the looks. You've got one heck of a bumpy road with that little one, but with patience and a gentle hand you should be able to pull through.

Have you researched any vets in the local area that can look her over if her health suddenly drops? Reptile Vets can be expensive as a forewarning, I was fortunate with my sugar gliders that there /is/ a local vet that does service them, but it's the same condition as the geckos because you don't know how the petstores are taking care of them.

There's a local Petco I know that doesn't even know what they feed their animals with (aka NO calcium or multivitamin dusting period) nor how to identify MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) which is curable, but devastating if not caught early enough - dusting your crickets with calcium every feeding should prevent it from happening. An easy quick-home dish to make for mealies is take your typical plastic dixie cup that you'd use for mouthwash and cut it to the depth needed to prevent mealies from coming out. You can tape the edges with masking tape so the baby won't risk hurting himself/herself.
 

GodzillaGecko

New Member
Messages
156
Location
Milford PA
you know...LOL I just came back to read through this and yes I meant wax. wow I'm way off my game. Not enough coffee LOL sorry about that...

and wow she's a sickly little thing. I think she still has a chance though. I've seen worse but she's pretty bad. Why not take the sand out and save it. Or use it for another project. That way its not going to waste. Take her out like Taesolieroy said and feed her. Or just change to paper towels. Either way. I feel bad for it but unless she eats she's not going to make it.
 
Last edited:

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
Taking them out is what I've done with mine, I mentioned this to folks I know that keep reptiles and they agree that leos somehow feed better when they're out of their home tank - plus it makes it easier to keep it all clean ^_^

If you want to make it less stressful on the babe a smooth-sided dish they can't climb out of will help. It's ok to keep her on the sand for the time being as it spreads the digestive heat better for her (you're using an under-tank-heater right? Leos don't need a light because they're nocturnal and digest better with a belly heat) and you can sink the dish down in the sand to make it more accessible for her ^_^

It's fine with all the questions! I might not post much but I watch and observe than talk, and say when I can and am able to say what I can say. I've had my share of cold-shoulder reptile keepers in other forums and I know how hard it is to take on such a challenge like your baby with more experienced hobbyists/keepers jumping down your throat about the size over the looks. You've got one heck of a bumpy road with that little one, but with patience and a gentle hand you should be able to pull through.

Have you researched any vets in the local area that can look her over if her health suddenly drops? Reptile Vets can be expensive as a forewarning, I was fortunate with my sugar gliders that there /is/ a local vet that does service them, but it's the same condition as the geckos because you don't know how the petstores are taking care of them.

There's a local Petco I know that doesn't even know what they feed their animals with (aka NO calcium or multivitamin dusting period) nor how to identify MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) which is curable, but devastating if not caught early enough - dusting your crickets with calcium every feeding should prevent it from happening. An easy quick-home dish to make for mealies is take your typical plastic dixie cup that you'd use for mouthwash and cut it to the depth needed to prevent mealies from coming out. You can tape the edges with masking tape so the baby won't risk hurting himself/herself.

Thanks, I just put the cap in and soon after she ran over to it and starting tasting it, shame she went the car ride hungry. If I would of known I would have done this sooner to minimize the stress for him or her. I noticed something, since some breeders keep scorpions at a low temperature that way it's easier for transport, do you think they intentional starved my gecko so it would be easy to transport also? I know that almost all geckos are skittish when they are babies but from the looks of how he was handled, he just willingly let them pick him up without trying to run away whatsoever. Poor thing. Almost makes me wanna go over there and buy all the animals there just to give them a better home. Shame. Well thanks for your help on this matter, I also agree it can be tough on some forums when you don't know something that pretty much everyone there knows. Thanks for the feeding dish suggestion, I'm going to use my dremel to shape it and smooth it out. Finally glad to see my gecko at least has something in his stomach.
 
Last edited:

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
you know...LOL I just came back to read through this and yes I meant wax. wow I'm way off my game. Not enough coffee LOL sorry about that...

and wow she's a sickly little thing. I think she still has a chance though. I've seen worse but she's pretty bad. Why not take the sand out and save it. Or use it for another project. That way its not going to waste. Take her out like Taesolieroy said and feed her. Or just change to paper towels. Either way. I feel bad for it but unless she eats she's not going to make it.


I'm taking a trip my petstore as soon as they open. I'm going to get him on a staple of dusted mealworms and a few wax worms as a treat until he gets better. I was surprised when I placed his calcium dish in, ran over and started tasting it as soon as I open his tank.
 

GodzillaGecko

New Member
Messages
156
Location
Milford PA
Thats a good sign at least. He needed the calcium and if he ran right over to it to taste it, then you might have given the little bugger a higher chance at survival now that you have it.

Once the gecko is up on his feet and fat and happy. Find a vet and take him in just to be safe. They will run a physical on him. Tell the doc about how you got him and show him the pictures of the then. So he knows your concern properly.
 

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
Thats a good sign at least. He needed the calcium and if he ran right over to it to taste it, then you might have given the little bugger a higher chance at survival now that you have it.

Once the gecko is up on his feet and fat and happy. Find a vet and take him in just to be safe. They will run a physical on him. Tell the doc about how you got him and show him the pictures of the then. So he knows your concern properly.

Well, it's finally 9. I'm packing my gecko in the deli container he came in when some moist towls. Hopefully he sruvives the trip.
 

WHYISPY

New Member
Messages
42
Location
California
Good luck with the trip! That's some fragile cargo in your hands :3

Well, sorry to say he's no longer with me. Literally, the owner Rick offered to replace the gecko saying whoever sold him knew nothing and that he or she pulled the gecko right out of there Hatchling Tanks. The gecko was far to young to even be out on display. He said he would give me a full refund and will gladly call me in when they're knew hatchlings came out of the incubator (they do breed almost all of there reptiles there) and would give me a "nice fat one" when I arrive. Well, I hope the little guy get's proper care and love. Will upload new pictures when I get a call. Thanks for everyones help.
 

GodzillaGecko

New Member
Messages
156
Location
Milford PA
awww...well good news is you'll get a healthy one and this one will get the care he needs. bad news is...you sorta probably got a bit attatched to him. But its better to have a healthy one then a crummy one.

Still I would be more pissed then the owner. I would want the guy who sold it to you fired. I would want more quality service whenever I walk into the shop. And maybe they should only have pro's deal with the reps and all the newbs stick to stocking shelves.

Hell I think I'm more angry then you are at the place.
 

Visit our friends

Top